Discover the Serrana Region: Petrópolis, Teresópolis, and Serra dos Órgãos National Park

Summer temperatures in Rio regularly top 40°C (104°F), leading locals and tourists to crowd the nearby beaches and forest waterfalls to escape the heat. On weekends, it can feel as if the entire city is jostling for a spot next to the refreshing waters. To avoid the crowds, consider driving up into the hills north of the city where temperatures are cooler, and the scenery is even more breathtaking.

This region, known as the Serrana, still reflects the influence of the German settlers who came in droves during the 19th century. It offers plenty to interest visitors, including the historic cities of Petrópolis and Teresópolis, along with a stunning national park.

Petrópolis: A Historical Gem

Located 70km north of Rio de Janeiro, Petrópolis is nestled among cool forested hills at an elevation of 838m (2,749 ft). Brazil was ruled as an empire from 1822 to 1889, and it was Emperor Dom Pedro II who commissioned Petrópolis and gave it its name (Petrópolis is a conjunction of Petrus and Polis, meaning Pedro and city). Construction began in 1845 and was completed two years later, designed by German engineer Júlio Frederico Koeler and populated largely by German immigrants. The German influence remains evident today, from the architecture and street names to the local cuisine.

Teresópolis: A Laid-Back Retreat

A little over 20km northeast of Petrópolis, across the spectacular Serra dos Órgãos National Park, lies its sister city, Teresópolis, named after Dom Pedro’s wife, Teresa Cristina. Though smaller than Petrópolis, Teresópolis boasts a similar comfortable climate and an even more relaxed atmosphere.

Embrace Nature and Relaxation

Although there are many attractions and activities in the region, many Brazilians who frequent the area often recommend enjoying the Serrana by simply relaxing with good food in delightful company and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Numerous guesthouses and short-term private rentals are available, often in serene locations boasting stunning views. Buses run regularly between Rio’s main bus terminal and the towns and cities of the Serrana, but hiring a car offers the best way to explore the area.

Serra dos Órgãos National Park

The Serra dos Órgãos National Park (also referred to by its Portuguese acronym, PARNASO) covers 105 km² (40 sq miles) and lies between Petrópolis and Teresópolis. This park is adorned with lush forests and dominated by dramatic pointed mountains, including the iconic Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger) and Agulha do Diabo (Devil’s Needle).

The park features over 200 km of trails, from easy walks past waterfalls and pools, such as the 1.3 km Trilha Suspenso (Suspended Trail), to the 3-day Travessia Petrópolis-Teresópolis (Petrópolis-Teresópolis Crossing), which spans the entire park between the two cities. Experienced rock climbers can tackle significant challenges, including a full day ascent of Dedo de Deus. For those preferring less strenuous activities, witnessing the breathtaking view from Mirante do Soberbo on the outskirts of Teresópolis is a must.

The park is exceptionally well-organized, featuring excellent visitor centers, well-maintained trails, and entrance tickets that cover official park accommodation for multi-day hikes. The entrance fee is R$52 (US$14), with accommodation options ranging from R$10 (US$2.50) for camping to R$39 (US$10) for a dormitory bunk bed.

Catch Some History at the Imperial Museum (Petrópolis)

The Imperial Museum is the most significant collection of relics and artifacts related to Brazil’s imperial history. Housed in the summer palace of Emperor Dom Pedro II, located in the heart of Petrópolis, this impressive neoclassical building was completed in 1862 and surrounded by tranquil gardens filled with exotic plants.

Founded in 1940, the museum contains over 300,000 items, including original furniture and paintings belonging to the imperial family. Key highlights include the imperial crown jewels and the quill used to sign the order abolishing slavery in 1888. Visitors don protective slippers to protect the original floors, leading many children to delightfully skate and slide through the museum’s grand halls and corridors. Although not all display information is available in English, there is a museum app that provides details in both English and Portuguese.

Taste the Local Suds

With deep German roots, it is no surprise that Petrópolis and Teresópolis have emerged as beer-making hubs. Both cities boast significant breweries that provide tours.

Petrópolis is home to the historic Bohemia Brewery, established by a German settler in 1853. The brewery features an interactive museum detailing its rich history. Guided tours conducted by English-speaking guides offer plentiful opportunities to sample various beers, concluding with a chance to continue tasting in an on-site bar and restaurant.

Vila St Gallen in Teresópolis is home to the respected Therezópolis range of beers. Although parts of this attraction resemble a German-style theme park, the brewery tour is informative and ends with a tasting where each beer is paired with cheese. While perhaps less polished than the Bohemia tour, it offers ample interest for beer enthusiasts. Note that tours are conducted in Portuguese; hence, bringing an interpreter or being ready to communicate non-verbally is advisable.

Get Your Festival On

The Bauernfest is celebrated annually in Petrópolis to honor the German settlers of the 19th century. This festival attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors for ten days at the end of June, held in the beautiful Crystal Palace. Expect the vibrant atmosphere of traditional German festivities featuring lively oompah bands, large mugs of beer, glüwein, and a plethora of sausages. Throughout the year, visitors can indulge in German staples like sausages, potato salad, and strudel at Casa do Alemão.

Additionally, the Feirinha de Teresópolis (Feirarte) is a bustling arts and crafts market in central Teresópolis that began in 1973, featuring over 600 stalls offering a wide variety of local products, drawing around 5,000 visitors every weekend. The fair operates on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 6 pm.

Where to Stay

Pousada Tankamana is located in the stunning, forested hills of Itaipava, just 12 km northwest of Teresópolis. The sixteen private chalets, equipped with hot tubs ideal for chilly evenings, are spread throughout spacious gardens. Locanda Della Mimosa offers grand hotel luxury and gourmet dining on the northern outskirts of Petrópolis, while the mid-priced Pousada Terê Parque is right on the edge of the Serra dos Órgãos Park, making it a perfect launching point for park exploration.