Discovering Frankincense in Oman
Frankincense, an aromatic resin harvested from the sap of scraggly desert trees, has been treasured for thousands of years for its distinctive fragrance and medicinal properties. Consequently, the highest quality frankincense is collected from a rare species that thrives in isolated wadis in Oman’s southernmost province of Dhofar. The region’s history is deeply intertwined with the production and trade of these ‘desert tears’.
From ancient ports, from which frankincense-laden vessels once set sail, to a rock-strewn canyon floor where the papery-barked trees still grow, a series of UNESCO-recognized attractions within 180km of Salalah allows visitors to trace the 5000-year history of this remarkable resin. Even if you’re short on time, visiting one or two Land of Frankincense sites offers an opportunity to gain a deeper appreciation of one of antiquity’s most sought-after luxuries.
Wander through the Ancient Fort at Khor Rori
On the rugged coastline 40km east of Salalah, the ancient fortified city of Sumhuram overlooks Khor Rori, a lagoon where a life-giving freshwater outlet meets the sparkling Indian Ocean. As the closest harbour to the frankincense-growing region, this strategic port was a hive of activity for 800 years beginning in the 4th century BC. Today, you can freely wander the atmospheric site, where smooth limestone blocks outline the monumental city gate, storage rooms, and a bathroom still sporting an old stone tub. Pottery, bronze coins, incense burners, and other artifacts unearthed here show that Khor Rori was a vital stop along the long-distance maritime trading routes that linked the Mediterranean, eastern Africa, China, and other far-flung destinations. Although sailors from all over the world would dock here to trade corn, oil, and cloth for Dhofar’s famous incense, there was very little crime due to a widely held superstition that the god who protected the city would prevent anyone who stole even a nugget of frankincense from sailing away.
View Frankincense Trees in Wadi Dawkah
One of the best places to see the source of these desert tears is Wadi Dawkah Frankincense Park, located 40km north of Salalah just off the Salalah-Muscat highway. Here, you can wander amongst hundreds of crooked Boswellia sacra trees, some of which were recently planted on the canyon’s rocky bottom. The best incense comes from trees like these that grow in a narrow climate band just beyond the summer monsoon’s reach but still influenced by coastal winds. As in ancient times, the work to harvest the resin in this wadi begins each April as temperatures rise, causing the sap to flow more easily. Workers use special iron knives to remove small pieces of bark and leave the sap to ooze for a couple of weeks. After the ‘pearls’ of resin are scraped off, the same spot is re-incised, and the entire process is repeated until the final harvest, known as the kushum, yields the palest and hence most valuable resin. All told, each tree produces several kilos of incense before resting until the following year.
Journey to a Lost City
During its heyday, frankincense was widely used in worship and burials – in part to cover up the unpleasant scent of decaying corpses – and was distilled into a heady perfume coveted by royalty, including King Tut of Ancient Egypt, in whose tomb its residue was found. The incense was so popular in antiquity that its price was sometimes as high as gold in the Roman Empire’s bustling markets. Consequently, to meet this pent-up demand, frankincense was distributed via a vast overland trade network. As soon as the summer monsoon ended, southern Arabian traders would pack the resin onto their camels and transport it across Arabia to Gaza and other Mediterranean ports, a grueling 2000km-long journey known as the ‘Incense Route’. One crucial rest stop was Shisr, an outpost about 180km north of modern-day Salalah where caravans would load water and supplies before venturing into the world’s largest sand desert, the forbidding Empty Quarter.
Today, Shisr is a popular stopping point on Empty Quarter tours. Beyond the crumbling remains of a fortress and the verdant oasis, there’s not that much to see. However, tantalizing hints suggest that the town may overlie the Lost City of Ubar, the ‘Atlantis of the Sands’ mentioned in the Quran. Legend has it that the affluent residents of this once-lucrative frankincense trading hub grew corrupt, leading to its destruction as a form of divine punishment. While archaeologists continue to debate whether this dusty town is indeed Ubar, there’s no doubt Shisr has always been and remains an important desert outpost.
Visit the Museum of the Frankincense Land
Tucked between lush fruit plantations and the dark-blue sea on the outskirts of Salalah, the Dhofar region’s preeminent museum, the Museum of the Frankincense Land, features two halls packed with exhibits exploring the nation’s cultural and maritime history. One display in the Maritime Hall explains how frankincense was traditionally sourced and distributed, while another delves into the history of the adjacent Al Baleed archaeological site, which includes the remains of a port from which frankincense was shipped from the 8th through the 16th centuries AD. The 64-hectare site, which is a stone’s throw from a dazzling white-sand beach, encompasses ancient fortification walls and the remains of the city’s Grand Mosque and citadel. Moreover, due to its prominence as a regional trading post, the town was ransacked multiple times during its lengthy history and gradually faded into obscurity after the disruption of Arabian maritime trade routes by Portuguese and other European naval powers.
Bargain in the Salalah Souq
Although it isn’t UNESCO-recognized, Salalah’s traditional local market is a great place to observe the ongoing importance of frankincense to Omanis. For them, the fragrant smoke is a significant part of a warmhearted welcome. In nearly every stall, wisps of grey smoke emanate from pebble-sized nuggets smoldering in clay incense burners. As you stroll past each storefront, smiling vendors invite you inside to view overflowing bins and heaps of bags filled with resin, as well as shelves of incense-infused perfumes, lotions, and edibles. Many shops sell compact frankincense kits, which include a small burner and a packet or two of desert tears, allowing you to bring the scent of Arabia and indelible memories back home with you.
