Scratch Bangkok’s surface and you’ll find a city with mega-malls minutes from 200-year-old homes, with temples sharing space with neon-lit strips of sleaze, and where streets lined with food carts are overlooked by restaurants perched on skyscrapers. Moreover, as Bangkok races toward the future, these quirks will continue to supply the city with its unique brand of Thai-ness.
Stats
Population: around 8.28 million
Visitors per year: around 21.5 million
Daily budget: US$30 to $100 (1000B to 3500B), plus accommodation
Best time of year to go: December and January are the coolest times of year in Bangkok, as well as peak tourist season. To sidestep some of the crowds, aim for visits in November or February.
Neighbourhoods and Sights
Ko Ratanakosin and Thonburi
The artificial island of Ko Ratanakosin is Bangkok’s birthplace – a logical starting point for your visit – and the Buddhist temples and royal palaces here, including Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace, and the enormous reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, comprise some of the city’s most important and most-visited sights. Cross Mae Nam Chao Phraya (the Chao Phraya River) to Thonburi to visit Wat Arun, one of the only Buddhist temple sites in Thailand that visitors are allowed to climb on.
Banglamphu
Leafy lanes, antique shophouses, hectic wet markets, and golden temples convene in Banglamphu – easily the city’s most quintessentially ‘Bangkok’ neighbourhood. This area paints a quaint postcard picture of the city that once was, that is until you stumble upon Khao San road, the intergalactic backpacker melting pot that’s anything but traditional. If you’re not staying here, consider visiting in the cool evenings to explore the Khao San Road Market for backpacker essentials or grab a beer at one of the strip’s fun bars.
Chinatown
Although generations removed from the mainland, Bangkok’s Chinatown could be a bosom buddy of any Chinese city. The streets are crammed with vendors, gaudy yellow-gold and jade shops, and flashing neon signs in Chinese characters. Given this over-the-top vibe, it’s no surprise that Chinatown’s own Wat Traimit is home to the world’s largest solid-gold Buddha statue. With so much life on the streets, open-air restaurants make Chinatown Bangkok’s best ‘hood for a street food feast.
Siam Square
Multi-storey malls, outdoor shopping precincts, and never-ending markets demonstrate that Siam Square is the heart of Bangkok’s commercial district. In addition to shopping, which peaks at mega malls such as MBK Center and Siam Paragon, be sure to appreciate the charming Thai architecture and art museum that is Jim Thompson House.
Riverside, Silom and Lumphini
Although you may not see it behind the office blocks, high-rise condos, and hotels, Mae Nam Chao Phraya forms a watery backdrop to these linked neighbourhoods. History is palpable in the riverside area’s crumbling architecture, evident at the nearly 140-year-old Mandarin Oriental, arguably the city’s most famous hotel. Heading inland, Silom is Bangkok’s de facto financial district by day, while after dark, it transforms into a nightlife destination with districts such as Bangkok’s ‘gaybourhood’ on Soi 4, Silom, and Patpong, known as one of the most famous red light districts in the world. Nearby Sathorn offers a more subdued ambiance, home to nahm, regarded as Bangkok’s best Thai restaurant. Right next door is Lumphini Park, central Bangkok’s premier green zone, best visited in the cool morning or afternoon.
Sukhumvit
Japanese enclaves, French restaurants, Middle Eastern nightlife zones, tacky bars: it’s all here along Sukhumvit road, Bangkok’s unofficial international zone. This is modern, cosmopolitan Bangkok, manifest in fun bars and excellent international restaurants.
Other Areas
You can hardly say you’ve been to Bangkok without a visit to Chatuchak Weekend Market, located north of the city. Allegedly one of the world’s largest markets, it’s an overwhelming assemblage of vendors that unites commerce ranging from exotic fish to vintage sneakers.
What to Pack
Cool, yet conservative clothing is recommended. Additionally, bring a scarf or sarong to cover legs and arms when entering temples.
Getting Around
Bangkok has two airports. Suvarnabhumi International Airport serves as the primary international air hub, located 25km east of the city centre. Transport options from/to Suvarnabhumi include metered taxis, the Airport Link train, and city buses. Don Muang International Airport, Bangkok’s low-cost terminal, is north of the city with similar transport options. Moreover, Bangkok’s public transportation network is continually evolving; however, reaching certain parts of the city – particularly areas like Ko Ratanakosin and Banglamphu – may still be time-consuming. Therefore, combining longer trips on the BTS Skytrain or MRT with a short taxi ride is typically the best strategy.
The elevated BTS Skytrain is probably the most efficient and convenient way to navigate central Bangkok, while Bangkok’s MRT is also a practical option, albeit less extensive.
In addition, outside peak hours, Bangkok taxis offer excellent value. The river boats, the Chao Phraya River Express, provide a scenic way to visit tourist sights in older parts of town.
Safety
Generally, Bangkok is a safe city, and incidents of violence against tourists are rare. To ensure a scam-free visit, keep the following points in mind:
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If you aren’t a gem trader or expert, resist the urge to buy unset stones in Thailand, as it could lead to a complicated scam.
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Ignore any ‘friendly’ local who claims an attraction is closed for a Buddhist holiday or cleaning; these are typically setups for trips to phony gem sales.
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Say goodbye to your day’s itinerary if you agree to ride with any tuk-tuk driver offering a cheap tour, as these often bypass actual attractions.
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Reject any taxi driver quoting a flat fare; this will usually be far higher than the meter rate. Walking beyond tourist areas may help you locate an honest driver.
Etiquette
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Do not say anything critical about the Thai royal family.
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Dress respectfully at royal buildings and temples.
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Avoid wearing shoes indoors.
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Strive to avoid conflict or raising your voice with locals.
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Do not touch another person’s head.
Planning Ahead
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Consider reserving a hotel room a couple of months prior to travel, especially for December/January.
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If planning to stay longer than 30 days, apply for a visa at the Thai embassy or consulate in your home country about a month before departure.
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A couple of weeks beforehand, reserve a table at nahm or enroll in a Thai cooking class to experience authentic Thai cuisine.
