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Jul 25, 2018 • 9 min read
As the sun sets, Barcelona comes alive. Explore from dusk ’til dawn to encounter the places and people at their brightest during the city’s darkest hours.
5PM
Enjoying absinthe comes with an artful ritual. On a quiet afternoon at Barcelona’s Bar Marsella, landlord José Lamiel Vallvé demonstrates this time-honored tradition. For the perfect absinthe experience, you will need: a glass of neat absinthe, a short silver fork, sugar cubes, and a water bottle featuring a pin prick in its lid. José expertly balances the fork on top of the glass, places the sugar cubes in position, and then gently squeezes a narrow stream of water over the sugar cubes. Enveloped in the mystique of the yellow-green liquid, the process yields a captivating “louche effect” as ghostly tendrils fill the glass.
This traditional method has existed for over a century. Ernest Hemingway, a notable regular, described the phenomena of absinthe turning “milky” as water was added. He famously noted that the drink often brought about a thrilling, ecstatic experience for its consumers.
Despite the passing years, Bar Marsella remains an iconic establishment. Remarkably, it has never been properly cleaned since opening in 1820, embodying a storied charm characterized by stained ceilings and thick cobwebs overlooking vintage bottles.
The bar has been frequented by legendary characters such as Salvador Dalí and Pablo Picasso. José recounts how his grandfather, the previous landlord, provided a venue for revolutionary ideas during the 1920s: “They would congregate here, forming unions and exchanging visionary ideas, all fueled by absinthe.”
People flock to dance with the green fairy while extending their evenings. As Hemingway elaborated in Death in the Afternoon, the Spanish hold a unique disdain for those who choose to sleep during the night: “For a long time your friends will be a little uncomfortable about it. Nobody goes to bed in Madrid until they have killed the night.”
This sentiment holds true for Barcelona, which mirrors its sibling’s unwavering spirit. A night out is relished leisurely, with streets filling before 8pm, especially along La Rambla. Here, human statues gather like a superhero movie cast, and the narrow passageways of Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) emanate whispers of past revelers.
6PM
Some revelers opt for relaxed spots such as Antic Teatre, characterized by its tranquil courtyard under a large fig tree, while others head to the upscale Els Quatre Gats, once the site of Picasso’s first solo exhibition. Others find their way towards Barceloneta, the bustling harbor district filled with local dive bars like Bar Leo, known for cheap drinks and lively atmospheres.
One unique gem situated between the Barri Gòtic and Barceloneta is La Xampanyeria. This lively venue combines elements of a bar and deli, serving its own high-quality sparkling wine for just a few euros alongside delectable cuts of ham. Patrons enjoy plates of jamón serrano that simply melt in your mouth. The energetic crowd makes this place a buzzing hub for socializing.
“This is a perfect place to start the night, right?” says Albert Torras, whose family has owned La Xampanyeria since 1969. “We’re centrally located, but it’s the unique atmosphere that sets us apart. You can easily meet friends or make new ones here.”
8PM
New friends enliven the atmosphere, enhancing the ambiance at various locations. As I wander back up La Rambla toward Plaça Reial, I stumble upon the staircase that leads down to Jamboree, the oldest jazz club in southern Europe, having hosted legends like Chet Baker and Ornette Coleman since it opened in 1960. This evening, the enchantingly talented Magalí Datzira captivates the audience with her renditions of timeless classics, evoking silence filled with admiration and awe.
“You could be at home in your own bubble, but once you venture out into the city at night, you immediately feel its magic.” Magalí enthusiastically shares her inspiration. In Barcelona, music echoes from around the corner, creating an alluring tapestry of sound.
A short jaunt from Jamboree takes you to Bar Pastís, a cozy venue reminiscent of the warmth of home, only accommodating just 22 patrons. Its ambiance has remained intact since its establishment in 1947, promising an experience rooted in nostalgia. The music resonates with the essence of French chanson, while overhead, a whimsical papier-mâché green absinthe fairy watches over the festivities.
9PM
Next to Bar Pastís, discover Palau Güell, an early masterpiece by Antoni Gaudí. To understand Gaudí’s magic, visit Casa Milà, also known as La Pedrera, built between 1906 and 1912. The architecture resembles an open-stone quarry, adorned with an undulating roof and impressive towers. Experience a spectacular nighttime audiovisual show telling the story of life’s origins. However, it’s Gaudí’s intricate designs that leave visitors spellbound.
10PM
Gaudí’s architectural wonders reflect Barcelona’s creative spirit. Explore this creativity through culinary experiences at Tickets, a tapas bar borne from the legendary El Bulli. Here, chefs craft astonishing dishes, such as liquid-filled olives and marinated beef served as miniature Nordic landscapes. Among these inventive offerings, simply exquisite oysters with shiso vinegar highlight Barcelona’s seafood status. Meanwhile, at 1881 per Sagardi harbor front, savor razor clams and turbot while admiring the splendid view of passing superyachts.
11PM
Near Casa Milà lies La Pepita, a quintessential tapas bar that serves up a fusion of flavors with dishes like roasted octopus and anchovies accompanied by caramelized milk. Owner Sofia Boixet embodies the heart of Catalan tapas culture, stating, “Here we usually share starters, then enjoy individual mains. This way you savor a variety of tastes.”
Originating from a romantic dream, Sofia and her husband Sergio opened their traditional tapas bar, showcasing marble counters, exquisite small plates, and even vermouth on tap. “Barcelona transforms after dark,” she observes. “People become happier! The atmosphere changes significantly as the night goes on.”
Sofia also recommends the coveted Boadas, known as the first cocktail bar in Barcelona, established in 1933 by a Cuban bartender who once tended in El Floridita. Additionally, Dry Martini offers a specialized experience. This bar showcases its commitment to perfection with a digital counter tracking the number of dry martinis served since their inception.
1AM
The ambiance at Bar Marsella transforms profoundly as midnight approaches. In the early hours, the bar fills with lively chatter and energy. Although hours of darkness are dwindling, patrons embrace the opportunity to recreate the enchanting tradition of preparing absinthe, with jubilant anticipation filling the air.
This article appeared in the August 2018 edition of Lonely Planet Traveller Magazine.
