Discovering Soweto and Khayelitsha: South Africa’s Reimagined Townships
The suburbs of Soweto, located in metro Johannesburg, and Khayelitsha, a vast township on the Cape Flats east of Cape Town, are transforming their reputations. These reborn areas are now focal points of innovation and culture, featuring new monuments, contemporary theatres, community centres adorned with public art, gourmet restaurants, and third wave coffee shops.
Soweto’s Historical Significance
As shorthand for ‘South Western Townships,’ Soweto’s history dates back to the late 19th century when it became a residential area for black South Africans. The community began in Kliptown, established in 1891 on what was previously the Klipspruit farm.
Currently, the district’s centerpiece is Walter Sisulu Square, honoring the apartheid struggle activist. This square hosted the 3000 delegates of the Congress of the People on June 26, 1955, for the dramatic drawing up of the Freedom Charter. The charter’s essential ideas are depicted in ten pillars lining the plaza, each topped with interpretive sculptures. Additionally, the square features a tourist office, convention centre, the Soweto Hotel, and a vibrant market. The notable brick tower symbolizes ancient African architecture and serves as the Freedom Charter Monument, casting a powerful light through an x-shaped skylight over an everlasting flame.
Established in 2015, the June 16 Memorial Acre stands in remembrance of the tragic student protest in 1976, during which police brutality claimed over 200 young lives. The site features contemporary murals and powerful artworks that convey the events of that day and plans exist for a tourist route leading toward the Hector Pieterson Memorial and the Hector Pieterson Museum.
Contemporary Soweto Life
While the struggle against apartheid shapes Soweto’s legacy, it is also a city thriving with over 1.2 million residents. The area boasts numerous businesses and institutions enhancing local quality of life. An excellent example is Thesis, a stylish boutique and café offering colorful streetwear and hosting a running club that meets weekly.
The Box Shop, a boutique created from shipping crates, is famous for its trendy local designs and is located on Vilakazi St, known for housing two Nobel Prize winners—Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. This famous tourist area features the Mandela House Museum, drawing both tourists and locals alike to its vibrant eateries and bars like Vuyo’s and Wine Bar.
In addition, Soweto hosts a unique annual wine festival at the Soweto Theatre. The theatre, vibrant with 200,000 colorful tiles, hosts numerous events and performances year-round, including the popular television show South Africa’s Got Talent. Even if no performances are scheduled, visitors can enjoy the stunning art and installations adorning its lobby.
If beer is more to your taste, visit Ubuntu Kraal Beer Garden, where you can savor locally brewed beers from Soweto Brew Co, now partnered with Heineken. Visitors can try out the adventurous bungee jump from the rope bridge at the nearby Orlando Towers or simply enjoy the impressive mural art surrounding the area while dining at Chaf Pozi barbeque restaurant.
Khayelitsha: Changing Perceptions
Khayelitsha emerged in the mid-1980s and is now home to approximately 2.4 million residents, making it South Africa’s largest township. Listed as an informal settlement, it lacks the infrastructure seen in Soweto.
A breakthrough for the community came in 2016 with the opening of the Isivivana Centre. This creative hub, developed over six years, houses multiple social organizations and charities alongside a library, café, and the advanced Bertha Movie House. The centre proudly displays two large murals, featuring a fashionable African woman by Breeze Yoko and an elephant by Falko One.
For those interested in street art, Zimbabwean artist Juma Mkwela offers tours throughout Khayelitsha. Participants can explore vibrant murals while assisting local residents with their vegetable gardens, providing splashes of color in this diverse landscape.
A showcase of local creativity can be found at the compact 18 Gangster Museum, situated in a repurposed shipping container. One half of the museum addresses the societal impacts of gangsterism through informative exhibits, while the other offers a replica prison cell with accounts from former offenders. Visits often include a walking, biking, or taxi tour around Khayelitsha.
Gourmet Cooking in Khayelitsha
Khayelitsha is a nurturing ground for emerging business talent. Abigail Mbalo, a dental technologist and former contestant on MasterChef South Africa, established a catering venture named 4Roomed eKasi Culture. This restaurant integrates modern interpretations of traditional township cuisine, incorporating ingredients cultivated in repurposed bathtubs around the eatery. Abigail is often seen engaging with guests and managing the open kitchen.
Another inspiring figure is Sikelala (Siki) Dibela. In 2016, he transformed his garage into the innovative Siki’s Kofee Kafe. With extensive experience at Vida E Caffé, Siki now offers his unique coffee blends alongside sweet pastries.
Lufefe Nomjana, known as Spinach King, specializes in spinach muffins. Raising awareness about sustainable eating, he began his business in 2014 and has since attracted sponsorship from Richard Branson’s Virgin Group to expand his green bakery and vegetarian offerings to multiple locations, including plans for future outlets abroad.
