Discover Northern Peru: Hidden Gems Beyond Machu Picchu

Most travelers on their debut tour of Peru struggle to leave behind the evocative ruins of Machu Picchu. However, the so-called “lost city of the Incas” is merely the beginning of a country rich with sprawling archaeological sites, gigantic waterfalls, thick jungle, high-altitude hikes, and delicious regional restaurants—many of which can be found in Peru’s largely unexplored northern highlands.

If you prefer solitude to crowds and DIY exploration over tailor-made tours, skip Machu Picchu and head north.

Kuélap

Older than Machu Picchu, Kuélap is a pre-Inca settlement and ceremonial center, now a distinguished ruin. Built by the Chachapoyas culture between 900 and 1100 AD, this remarkably well-preserved site is perched atop a 3000m-high ridge and surrounded by formidable limestone walls that dwarf many European castles. Furthermore, due to its isolation above the narrow Utcubamba valley, Kuélap never gained the fame of Machu Picchu.

However, the installation of a cable car in 2017 has made the ruins more accessible. Eight-berth ‘cabins’ whisk visitors on a spectacular 4km ride across a V-shaped river valley, bringing them within a 20-minute walk of the ruins. Since the cable car’s opening, tourist numbers to Kuélap have more than doubled, yet they remain only one-tenth of Machu Picchu’s footfall. Thus, visiting soon is advisable!

Catarata de Gocta

In the greatest hits of world waterfalls, Gocta barely makes a mark. Before this magnificent two-tiered waterfall was charted on an expedition in 2005, local residents were the only ones aware of its existence. Initial reports claimed Gocta at 771m was the world’s third tallest, although later studies revised this to the 15th position. Regardless of its ranking, the falls are magical. Over the past decade, the Peruvian government has slowly opened the area to tourism, with well-signposted trails guiding hikers through thick, damp forest to both the upper and lower cascades.

Leimebamba

The small colonial settlement of Leimebamba, located two hours south of Chachapoyas, is little known outside archaeological circles. However, due to a group of dedicated excavators who uncovered over 200 pre-Columbian mummies in nearby funerary towers in 1996, it now hosts one of Peru’s finest small museums. Located 5km south of town, the Museo Leimebamba displays these hauntingly life-like mummies in a temperature-controlled room, alongside panels detailing their fascinating discovery and insights into the Chachapoyas culture.

If intrigued, it is possible to rent guides and horses for a three-day journey to the remote Laguna de los Cóndores, where the mummies were unearthed. Visitors can stay in simple cabins and enjoy fishing on the lake while learning about northern Peru’s mythical cloud warriors.

The Peruvian Cordillera

Peru’s snow-capped Cordillera is a highlight of the Andes, featuring some of South America’s tallest mountains, including Huascarán (the tallest peak in Peru) and the renowned Siula Grande, made famous by the story of Touching the Void. This rugged area is not solely for seasoned alpinists; the scruffy yet welcoming city of Huaraz is the trekking capital of Peru, attracting hikers of all levels. A popular multi-day hike is the three-day 45km Santa Cruz trail, a quieter alternative to the Inca Trail that reaches a breathtaking altitude of 4750m, requiring no pre-arranged permits, guides, or technical skills.

Chacas

Northern Peru’s towns have often suffered after earthquakes, with many reconstructed in a bland modern style. Tiny Chacas, situated at 3360m above sea level on the eastern slopes of the Cordillera Blanca, stands out. The key reason is an Italian missionary, Padre Ugo de Censi, who arrived in the mid-1970s and formed a woodcarving cooperative to combat poverty. The Don Bosco Cooperative not only allows young Peruvians to refine their skills in woodcarving but also rejuvenates Chacas’s urban landscape.

In town, you can admire the handiwork showcased in the beautifully restored Mama Ashu church, adorned with exquisite wooden doors and rich baroque decor. This town also serves as an excellent base for extensive hikes into the surrounding Cordillera Blanca.

Moyobamba

Heading east in northern Peru takes you from the surf beaches of Máncora through misty cloud forests to the gateway of the world’s largest rainforest at Moyobamba. Often overlooked as merely a stopover for deeper Amazon explorations, this ‘city of orchids’ merits more attention. Collaborative efforts between tourist authorities and local communities have developed various ecological activities in the area, such as hikes through the forested Morro de Calzada, scenic boat trips on the Rio Mayo, and visits to the Waqanki Orchid Center, teeming with a variety of hummingbirds.

Despite substantial damage to historic architecture from earthquakes, Moyobamba’s lively main square offers a chance to explore top-notch coffee bars serving locally sourced beans. If you’re arriving from the west, this town serves as your first opportunity to savor authentic Amazonian dishes, from grilled catfish to adventurous meals featuring termites. A visit to the tiki-themed La Olla de Barro is the perfect beginning to your culinary exploration.