Discover Bhutan: Nature, Culture, and Adventure
Bhutan may be a tiny dot on the map, but its topography is epic, even daunting, in scale. Measured in terms of altitude change rather than miles, this is a big country to explore. Beyond the gateways of Thimphu and Paro, there are countless valleys in which to lose oneself and discover some of this Himalayan country’s less obvious gems. These include places where global influence is less apparent, where nature is at its most untamed, and where traditional Buddhist culture continues to thrive.
Top Experiences Beyond Thimphu and Paro
The dzongs (fortress monasteries) close to Paro and Thimphu are obvious first stops on a once-in-a-lifetime Bhutan trip. However, for travellers seeking to enrich their Bhutan experience, here’s a guide to some of the top activities in the further reaches of the kingdom—places where global influence is minimal, nature is wild, and traditional Buddhist culture flourishes.
Hunting the Himalayan Blue Poppy in Haa
Although it is just a half-day drive to the west of Paro, fewer than 10% of visitors to Bhutan make it into the gorgeous Haa Valley. The region has only two roads into and out of this little-visited province, with the most dramatic making the narrow, twisting crossing of the 3810m Cheli La, home to Bhutan’s national flower, the Himalayan blue poppy.
During the flowering season, botanists and flower enthusiasts come from all over the globe to witness this rare mountain poppy in full bloom. Notably, in addition to blue poppies, Haa is home to unique yellow, white, and red poppies. The prime time to admire these celebrated plants is from mid-June to late July, coinciding with monsoon thunderstorms in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.
Outdoor Pursuits Around Punakha
Punakha is a top tourist destination, thanks to its beautifully situated dzong at the confluence of two sacred rivers. However, many travellers move quickly on to the next location, missing out on scenic mountain bike trails that offer expansive views of the surrounding hills. Moreover, Punakha is the starting point for rafting on the Pho Chhu river, which begins with a bracing hike along the river bank to the put-in at Samdingkha. The river features a couple of class III rapids and ends near the Punakha Dzong at a rapid known as the Wrathful Buddha. For novices, a more relaxed float on the less tempestuous Mo Chhu is an excellent introduction to river rafting.
For a gentler experience, a road on the west side of the Mo Chhu leads north towards Jigme Dorji National Park—a worthy excursion that offers great birdwatching opportunities near Tashitang village, as well as the chance to visit the 17th-century Trashi Thongmoen Dzong and soak in Gasa’s celebrated medicinal hot springs.
Biking, Hiking & Birding in the Phobjikha Valley
The glacial valley of Phobjikha, east of Wangdue Phodrang, resembles a vast ice-cream scoop. The main village of Gangte boasts an impressive goemba (monastery) overlooking the bowl-shaped valley, and from this base, you can embark on trails by foot or mountain bike, spotting rare and endangered wildlife. This marshy valley floor is a celebrated winter roosting ground for endangered Black-necked Cranes, which migrate from Tibet to Bhutan in late autumn, typically raining in the last week of October, over-wintering in the valley in their hundreds.
Natural Encounters in the Southern Borderlands
Adjacent to the Indian border, Bhutan’s steamy southern districts offer excellent birdwatching opportunities and fertile rural vistas. Rarely visited by those who fly directly to Paro, Gelephu town, sitting at the edge of the Indian plains, provides an adventurous way to enter or exit Bhutan while exploring its tropical side.
After decades of restrictions due to security concerns, Royal Manas National Park near Gelephu is now open to visitors, promising encounters with hornbills, golden langur monkeys, and, for the fortunate, tigers, wild elephants, and one-horned rhinos. However, tourism is still in its infancy here; thus, advance planning is essential to arrange rafting and boating trips on the Manas River and jungle treks to remote villages.
There’s also room for culture. North of Gelephu, the ridgetop town of Zhemgang features an impressive dzong and a picturesque old-town center. Keep an eye out for acrobatic golden langurs swinging in the roadside trees and at cliff-face saltlicks in and around Zhemgang.
Bumthang, Bhutan’s Forested Heartland
Far from the busy sights of western Bhutan, the rolling hills and cultural sites of Bumthang’s four valleys provide the perfect setting for numerous day hikes. This peaceful center of Bhutan includes small monasteries, temples, and hermit retreats. Accommodation options in Bumthang are commendable, blending modern and traditional styles. After a day of walking, you can typically unwind in a traditional hot-stone bath or enjoy an ice-cold Red Panda beer, Bumthang’s delightful local brew.
Northeast of Jakar, the Tang Valley is the highest and most remote of Central Bhutan’s valleys, characterized by dark and towering forests. None are darker than the shadowy ravine of Membartsho, known as the Burning Lake. It is here, in the swift-flowing inky waters, that Bhutan’s most celebrated lama-turned-treasure-hunter, Pema Lingpa, allegedly uncovered two of Guru Rinpoche’s hidden relics.
A visit to the Tang Valley is incomplete without a stay at the venerable Ogyen Choling Palace. Housing one of Bhutan’s finest museums, this rural retreat also has significant literary credentials, courtesy of the Executive Trustee of the Ogyen Choling Foundation, the celebrated author Ms. Kunzang Choden.
Birdwatching in Ancient Forests Between Jakar and Mongar
Southeast of Bumthang, the primeval forests between Thrumshing La and Shongar Dzong teem with birds and other wildlife. Adventurous walkers can revel in the fantasy landscape of gnarled trees that appear to defy gravity. Notably, the best bases for exploring this bird-filled wonderland are Jakar or Mongar, each situated a day apart by road on either side of Thrumshing La.
For dedicated birdwatchers, a three-hour hike from Thrumshing La down to Sengor, or the two-day onward trek from Sengor to Yong Khola provide fantastic opportunities. Another exceptional option is the steep, day-long hiking trail from Latong La down to Menchugang, via Saling and Shongar. The best months for hiking and bird spotting are September to November and February to March.
Bhutan’s Wild East
The rarely explored East of Bhutan beckons to travellers with time to wander far off the beaten path. The most common route here is along a twisting road from Thimphu via Bumthang, consuming several days of your travel while offering stunning scenery along the way. The reward for venturing into the rugged eastern half of Bhutan is immersion in truly vertiginous landscapes where humans are scarce, and their impact on the environment is limited compared to the epic natural surroundings.
The East is home to hardy peoples, including migratory traders from the Brokpa community, a semi-nomadic tribe who migrated to Bhutan from Tibet. Brokpa men don distinctive black hats, called shamo, crafted from yak chest hair, designed to redirect rainwater away from the face. For full cultural immersion, you can organize a homestay in a Brokpa household in the remote Merak and Sakten regions, accessible from the small town of Trashigang.
There are numerous short treks available in the surrounding Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, purportedly established to protect the elusive Bhutanese yeti, or migoi. Not many have spotted a migoi, perhaps due to their ability to choose invisibility and turn their feet backward to confuse potential pursuers, as per local legends.
Mix Nature & Culture in Mongar & Lhuentse
Accessible by road from Thimphu via Bumthang and Mongar, the ancestral home of Bhutan’s royal family at Lhuentse is reached via a winding, landslide-prone road that mimics the curves of the churning Kuri Chhu. Watch for agile capped langurs in the roadside trees and take a moment to admire the towering 45m-high statue of Guru Rinpoche at Tangmachu.
Lhuentse boasts its historic dzong, one of the most picturesque in Bhutan, and several fascinating nearby villages await exploration. The tiny hamlet of Khoma is especially renowned for the quality of its weavings, and it is possible to arrange a homestay in this tranquil and quintessentially Bhutanese village.
Smell the Rhododendrons in the Country’s High Passes
The highlight of any excursion through Bhutan will be crossing a lofty mountain pass (la). There is a palpable excitement as you transition from one valley to another, with guides and drivers pausing to offer Buddhist prayers for a safe onward journey, perhaps leaving strings of prayer flags to flutter in the breeze.
These obligatory stops on any cross-country journey showcase the best scenery in spring, when Bhutan’s renowned rhododendrons burst into vivid bloom. Moreover, the tangled webs of prayer flags add color to the passes at any time of year. If you visit between April and June, the best La La spots for rhododendrons include:
- Dochu La, between Thimphu and Wangdue Phodrang
- Pele La, between Wangdue Phodrang and Trongsa
- Yotong La, between Trongsa and Jakar
- Thrumshing La, between Jakar and Mongar
Trekking in Bhutan
Almost two-thirds of Bhutan remains beyond the reach of motorable roads, with centuries-old trading routes linking mountain villages to regional markets and the Tibet and India borders. If you truly wish to get off the beaten path in Bhutan, it requires time and effort, as the only mode of travel is by foot.
These ancient trading paths now double as trekking routes, ranging from short hikes through farmland and subtropical forest to challenging high-altitude expeditions. The best aspect is trusting your Bhutanese guide to manage all logistical aspects, ensuring you can trek in comfort while exploring Bhutan.
There are trails to suit all abilities and commitments—leading treks in Bhutan include:
- Saga La Trek (2 days) – An easy overnight trek following the traditional route from Haa to Paro.
- Nabji Trek (4 days) – A low altitude winter trek to experience Monpa culture and spot exotic wildlife and birdlife.
- Jhomolari Trek (8 days) – A showcase multi-day trek offering spectacular views of Jhomolari (7314m).
- Laya-gasa Trek (11 days) – A trek to remote regions to meet the Laya people and spot takin, blue sheep, and the Himalayan blue poppy.
- Snowman Trek (24 days) – An epic and demanding trek across the rooftop of Bhutan, reserved for the truly dedicated.
