GoTravelDaily Local Vesna Celebic has resided in Dubrovnik for several decades, but only began to genuinely appreciate its intricate history when she started offering walking tours around the town and its stunning surroundings. She loves the dramatic landscape, the proud locals, the lush nature, and the sparkling sea. Moreover, her favorite local tradition involves savouring coffee leisurely on a beautiful open-air piazza.
When I have friends in town… I first check the Port of Dubrovnik website for the cruise ship schedule to determine the best (least busy) time to explore the old town. Our day out typically includes at least one long coffee break at the quirky Art cafe located near Pile Gate or on Bunić square behind the cathedral, where prices drop as you venture off the main street. Croats enjoy taking their time over coffee, so if you’d prefer not to be recognized as a tourist, it’s best to skip the to-go cups.
My favorite sight in Dubrovnik… is the old town’s iconic red roofs. Referred to as ‘the fifth facade’, the uniform terracotta tiles create a breathtaking view from the northern side of the city walls and its highest point, the Minčeta tower.
My best Dubrovnik experience ever… occurred when a close friend took me sailing for my 28th birthday. We experienced Dubrovnik from the sea and then visited St Andrew’s island, home to a historic lighthouse that is not reachable by public ferry. Onboard, we indulged in a feast of cheeses, bread, olive oil, anchovies, capers, olives, and red wine, making refreshing dips in the sea to cool off. Consequently, I believe that to truly appreciate Dubrovnik, spending time on a boat is essential.
When I have a day off, I’ll escape to… the Elafiti island of Lopud, an hour by public boat from Gruž harbour. It’s a breathtaking combination of remarkable heritage, pristine nature, and sandy beaches that always captivates me. Although I might be slightly biased due to my involvement in setting it up, I enjoy relaxing at the Your Black Horizon pavilion, a contemporary art installation by Olafur Eliasson located just minutes from Lopud town’s waterfront.
My favorite place to shop for gifts… is Kawa near Ploče gate. This shop resembles a temple for aficionados of contemporary Croatian craftsmanship, Kawa features everything from small-batch gin to accessories, clothing, and decor. I am particularly fond of the wonderful tote bags found at Craft & Stones, which design represents unique local sentiments and moments. Mine showcases the Dalmatian word ‘fjaka’, signifying ‘a state of mind in which a human aspires to nothing… considered a gift from God’.
When I take my six-year-old to the old town… we often visit the kids’ park below the Pile Gate Bridge either on our way in or out. On occasion, we explore a museum, typically the Natural History Museum or the Aquarium, as they are generally entertaining for children and not overcrowded. Conversely, we might go straight to lunch at the open-air Buffet Kamenice, where he can chase pigeons around the square while I enjoy some oysters, waiting for our order of fried calamari and shrimp risotto. We will energize our walk home with delectable gelato from Dolce Vita.
When my extended family gets together… we often travel to Cavtat. Located about 30 minutes away from Dubrovnik by car or bus, we usually head directly to Ključice beach on Rat peninsula. Our day is spent alternating between the beach and enjoying a meal at Rokotin restaurant, which features an open-air terrace nestled among pine woods directly below the Račić mausoleum. Their grilled seafood is delicious.
My girlfriends and I love to… savor local wines. The southern region of Croatia is famous for bold red varieties from Pelješac and light whites from Korčula Island. While we enjoy experimenting with different labels, I must confess to being a loyal fan of the Miloš winery on the Pelješac peninsula and the Crvik winery in the Konavle region. Our favorite spot for wine experiences is undoubtedly the D’vino wine bar located in Dubrovnik’s old town.
My hidden foodie treasure in the old town… is the restaurant Zuzori. Tucked away in a quiet street parallel to the main thoroughfare Stradun, Zuzori features carefully sourced traditional ingredients presented with a contemporary twist. I fell in love with this restaurant at the first taste of their olive tapenade. Furthermore, it is situated on the only street in the old town named after a woman – Cvijeta Zuzorić, a renowned Renaissance poet.
The most inspiring aspect of Dubrovnik… lies in the remarkable intelligence that went into its construction. Taking the cable car up Srđ hill offers a stunning bird’s eye view of the old town. As you gaze around, it becomes apparent that Dubrovnik is somewhat isolated, surrounded only by rugged, barren karst landscape before the next settlements. However, through a series of strategic and diplomatic choices, the local population not only built a stone-walled city but also created the Dubrovnik Republic, which flourished for 450 years.
First published in August 2017
