Discover the Vibrant Heart of Bucharest

At first glance, Bucharest may be hard to define. The enormous Palace of Parliament gets the most attention as the second-largest administrative building in the world, but it’s far from what constitutes the everyday local life. Dig a little deeper in Bucharest’s walkable neighborhoods, with their period architecture and pockets of hidden glory, and you’ll find an eclectic mix of old and new, numerous arts initiatives, and an ever-growing foodie scene.

Old Town

Fresh off an urban facelift and in continuous renewal, the historic center is where you should begin your exploration. Start with the Old Princely Court on Strada Franceză, the oldest street in town, dating back to the 15th century and once home to Vlad the Impaler, the ruler of Wallachia who inspired Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula. Directly across lies Hanu’ lui Manuc, the oldest inn in Bucharest. Wander through the cobblestone streets until you reach Stavropoleos Church, the city’s most picturesque church featuring an exquisite, tranquil courtyard. Right next to it, Bucharest’s oldest brewery Caru’ cu Bere is a must-stop (though ultra-touristy) for its timeless decor and hearty Romanian food alongside a pint of their house beer. At the end of the street facing Calea Victoriei, the grandiose CEC Bank Palace (Romanian Savings Bank) is worth the visit in itself.

Rowdy bars and atmospheric cafes come by the dozen on and around Lipscani—once a popular merchant street—but so does a slew of chic wine bars. Don’t miss Lipscani’s most frequented address, Cărturești Carusel, a restored six-floor villa from the early 20th century now housing one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores.

Cișmigiu

Continue on Lipscani street past Calea Victoriei until you reach Origo, one of the pioneers of Bucharest’s specialty coffee scene. For some of the best panoramic views (and igloos set up during winter), look no further than Linea / Closer to the Moon, Bucharest’s most beautiful rooftop. Wine lovers can dive straight in at the rustic, sleek Pâine și Vin, to find out how Romania fares as Europe’s sixth-biggest wine producer.

With a selection of hip bars, local shops, and cultural hubs, the Cișmigiu district has become the official Creative Quarter of Bucharest. It’s also home to Cișmigiu Garden, the oldest public park in town and one of its most scenic. As Lipscani street intersects Ion Brezoianu, the creative venues multiply. After passing the striking art nouveau Hotel Cișmigiu, you’ll soon find yourself by Palatul Universul, a former printing house brought back to life as a creative hub. Inside, FIX serves fantastic ‘botanical’ cocktails, while Apollo 111 hosts all sorts of quirky events and runs an independent theatre. Also worth checking out is the stylish Beans & Dots specialty coffee and concept store. Nearby, Control club attracts crowds for its live indie rock and electronic music concerts.

Calea Victoriei

Control club is just off Calea Victoriei, where a guided stroll is in order. This is Bucharest’s oldest artery and its most representative of the belle époque past, which earned the city the nickname ‘Little Paris’ a century ago. Within a 1km radius, you’ll encounter the former Royal Palace (now housing the National Art Museum) and Revolution Square, which evokes the painful 1989 fall of communism. Nearby, the Romanian Athenaeum stands in picture-perfect grandeur as the home of the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra.

After your sightseeing, refuel with great coffee at the hip Artichoke Coffee Shop, overlooking 18th-century Crețulescu Church. For contemporary art and clever Romanian designs, visit the Galateca art gallery and NeoGalateca shop located on the ground floor of the Central University Library Carol I. End your tour with a Romanian craft beer jaunt at Fabrica de Bere Bună for a sample of the owners’ Zăganu brand or many of the other local microbrews on tap (Hop Hooligans is a favorite).

Dorobanți

Known as the posh—and a bit pretentious, some may say—quarter in North Bucharest, Dorobanți has emerged in recent years as the go-to place for foodies. Head to Puțul lui Zamfir street for everything from home-cooked Japanese at Yuki, gourmet Italian fare at Grano, Thai cuisine at Tuk Tuk, and premium wine at Tasting Room by Ethic Wine gastro wine bar. Also in the area, fresh seafood dishes are prepared right in front of you at no-frills, fashionable Raionul de Pește. For the best Scandinavian-inspired brunch, Frudisiac cafe is always bustling. We shouldn’t forget Mesange Fromagerie, a mouth-watering new addition by way of France, serving the best selection of cheese in town.

Food aside, the National Museum of Maps and Old Books (housed in a 1920s Venetian-style villa) provides a stunning insight into Romania’s history. Conclude your day with New Romanian cuisine at Maize, the lauded upscale farm-to-table eatery whose Noma-trained head chef was voted Chef of the Year 2018 by the Gault & Millau Romania guide.

Primăverii

Once home to the former communist elite just north of Dorobanți, Primăverii represents Bucharest’s most exclusive postcode. Proof of this is the opulent Spring Palace, dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu’s former residence that is now open as a museum. On the same Primăverii Boulevard, the new Museum of Recent Art (MARe) wows with its monolithic facade and modern art dating from the 1960s onwards. Treat yourself to refined Italian fare at upscale Poesia, followed by exceptional specialty coffee at Bob Coffee Lab on Charles de Gaulle Square, whose roaster and co-founder Alexandru Niculae was the World Coffee Roasting Champion in 2016.

With streets named after capital cities, alongside its concentration of sumptuous embassies and luxury brands, the quarter retains the exclusive allure of yesteryear. One of its biggest attractions is the expansive Herăstrău Park, where there’s enough to do and see for an entire day. For instance, on the shores of Herăstrău Lake (which makes for a fantastic jogging trail), you can visit the National Village Museum, an open-air ethnographic museum featuring dozens of original peasant homes brought in from all around the country. Look out for Bucharest’s own Triumphal Arch as you exit the park via Kiseleff Road.

Cotroceni

Perhaps the most authentic quarter one can discover in Bucharest—largely untainted by the woes of communism—is Cotroceni, located just a 10-minute walk from the Palace of Parliament. Beginning at the Bucharest National Opera House, the tree-lined neighborhood is an architect’s dream, showcasing a variety of 19th- and early 20th-century art deco, Neo-Romanian, and modernist villas.

The streets, named after prominent doctors, serve as a testament to the district’s intellectual prestige. Don’t miss the idyllic Infinitea teahouse and the tiny Two Minutes Cafe, possibly the smallest coffee shop in Europe. Another reason to visit this area is the baroque Cotroceni Palace, the official residence of Romania’s President, which is open for visits, alongside the adjacent verdant Botanical Garden.