As Morocco’s popularity grows, it becomes increasingly challenging to find off-the-beaten-track experiences. While must-do destinations like Marrakesh, the High Atlas, and Essaouira attract many visitors, heading south unveils three hidden gems where you can immerse yourself in Berber culture, breathtaking mountains, and fantastic surf without the crowds.
If you like Marrakesh, try Taroudant
Dubbed ‘mini Marrakesh’, Taroudant is a trading town nestled in the fertile Souss Valley, encircled by magnificent honey-coloured ramparts and backed by the stunning peaks of the High Atlas and Anti Atlas. Centuries ago, it briefly served as the capital of the Saadian dynasty before the Red City took its place. While there aren’t any major sights, Taroudant’s unhurried pace, laid-back souqs, and absence of tourists make it a delightful place to linger. Explore the city walls by horse-drawn caleche (carriage) and dive into the ancient kasbah, stopping at the Hotel Palais Salam, a former pasha’s palace. You can wander through its tiled salons and Moorish gardens for the price of a mint tea.
The Sunday souq is the go-to place for picking up local produce, from long-lashed camels to gigantic watermelons. Taroudant boasts two hassle-free markets situated on either side of the vibrant Place Assareg. In the Souq Berbère, you’ll discover pyramids of brightly colored spices and piles of seasonal fruits. Similarly, the older Souq Arabe is perfect for local handicrafts, such as terracotta pots, colorful ceramics, handwoven baskets, and leather goods originating from nearby tanneries.
North of Taroudant, Palais Musee Claudio Bravo, the dream home of the late Chilean hyperrealist artist, is now open to the public. A guided tour allows you to explore private suites adorned with a diverse collection of global art and antiques, as well as his workshop where his last painting remains on the easel. Subsequently, the Tioute Oasis, located just 30km southeast of Taroudant, presents a luxuriant palm grove rising out of the sun-baked earth, where locals cultivate date palms, mint, alfalfa, bitter orange, figs, and prickly pear, all while overlooking the ruins of an impressive kasbah.
Where to eat
If you’re looking for a break from tagines, head to Sidi ou Sidi, a beautifully restored medina house filled with art. Enjoy delicious pasta, salads, and dessert options in the bright salons or on the plant-filled roof terrace, which also houses a small boutique selling local handicrafts.
Where to sleep
At the tranquil Dar Al Hossoun, situated 7km from the center, you’ll find individually decorated rooms filled with colorful rugs and weavings. These are nestled around a lush garden featuring cacti, orange groves, and fragrant jasmine. The retreat includes two swimming pools and a small spa with a traditional hammam, serving Moroccan-meets-Mediterranean meals. Cat lovers will delight in the presence of around 20 rescued felines that call this haven home. The owners also organize various excursions, including trips to the nearby Souss-Massa National Park.
If you like the High Atlas, try Tafraoute in the Anti Atlas
Less explored than the High Atlas’s well-worn trails, the region around Tafraoute is Morocco’s Berber heartland, where traditions are firmly upheld. This area, surrounded by hilltop kasbahs, picturesque villages, and lush palm oases, serves as an excellent base for adventurous hikers and climbers who are drawn to the rugged Anti Atlas mountains and ancient Berber routes. The highest peak, Jebel El Kest, rises to 2359m, while gentler hiking and cycling routes weave through the Ameln Valley, dotted with long-abandoned villages blending into the rocky landscape. La Maison Traditionelle in Oumesnat offers fascinating insights into a fast-disappearing way of life. Ahrass Abdeslam, who has been blind since childhood, welcomes visitors into his grandparents’ home, featuring thick earth-and-stone walls, while he explains ancient tools and traditions of the Anti Atlas, concluding with music and mint tea in the salon.
Wednesday marks market day when farmers from the region gather to sell their produce. Notably, Tafraoute is the country’s largest almond producer, celebrated for the springtime Almond Blossom Festival. Don’t miss the chance to try amlou, a sweet mixture of almonds, argan oil, and honey often dubbed ‘Moroccan Nutella.’ The small and hassle-free souq is ideal for purchasing quality woodwork, silver jewelry, men’s yellow leather mountain babouche (slippers), and richly embroidered shoes that signify marital status.
A notable rock formation named Le Chapeau de Napoléon, or Napoleon’s Hat, towers over the picturesque village of Aguerd-Oudad, just 3km south of Tafraoute. Additionally, 4km further, the Painted Rocks stand as one of the region’s most iconic symbols. Originally painted in vibrant colors by Belgian artist Jean Verame in 1984, these rocks have faded but still present a surreal charm.
Where to eat
Expect delectable flavors at Chez Sabir, nestled down a quiet alley from the main road. This home-turned-restaurant boasts traditional Berber cooking, offering flavorful harira soup, an array of Moroccan salads, and delicious tagines.
Where to sleep
Chez Amaliya Auberge Kasbah is located in the Ameln Valley beneath La Tete du Lion, providing picturesque views. Each room surrounds a large swimming pool, perfect for cooling off when the temperature rises. You can indulge in alfresco dining featuring tagines and pizza. The multilingual staff organizes excursions and offers guidance on self-guided hikes and climbs.
If you like Essaouira, try Mirleft
Nestled at the point where the mountains meet the Atlantic Ocean, the serene town of Mirleft offers pristine beaches that are often deserted outside of Moroccan holidays. It boasts a growing surf scene, quaint guesthouses, and serves as a low-key, less windy alternative to Essaouira. With a mild, dry climate year-round and a relaxed vibe, Mirleft has long attracted artists, musicians, and backpackers who often stay longer than planned, developing a diverse expatriate community. Additionally, watersports enthusiasts are increasingly discovering this charming location.
The pristine beaches are undoubtedly the biggest attraction, ranging from the popular Imin Tourga beach, where sunbathers exist in everything from bikinis to burkinis, to the wild Atlantic coast home to Legzira’s stunning natural stone arch. Mirleft itself consists of two main roads with a few shops, cafes, and ice cream parlours, alongside a small fish market filled with smoky grillades (try the mussel tagine). Climbing up to the old Spanish military fort at sunset rewards visitors with spectacular views.
Where to eat
Don’t miss the long-standing Le Café de Pecheur at Aftas beach, where you can enjoy freshly caught sea bass, squid, grilled sardines, and mesmerizing live music. Hassan, the restaurant owner, has hosted legendary rock stars like Jimi Hendrix and Patti Smith during the ’60s and ’70s, making dining here a unique experience.
Where to sleep
In the cliff-top Les Amicales neighborhood, Sally’s B&B is more of a home-away-from-home, featuring front-row views over Mirleft’s main beach. This charming villa combines Moroccan and marine themes, and the homemade breakfast can be enjoyed around a communal table or on the terrace. Sally, a long-time British expat, provides excellent hospitality and vast knowledge about Mirleft.
