A nod of the head and a wry smile and they’re off, fiddles hopping, feet stomping, and the gravelly voices belting out the tunes. Music seems to run in the blood of the Irish, and once you set foot in the Old Sod, it seems you’re never more than a stone’s throw from a session.
For all but the most ardent disciples, it’s the lively atmosphere that matters as much as the music – the friendly banter, wild stories, and back-slapping good cheer of a pub session are like nothing else on the planet.
Here are some of our favorites for the best craic agus ceol (fun and music) in the country.
Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann
Held in late August, the Fleadh is the mother of all Irish music festivals and attracts about 250,000 people over eight fun-filled days. While you’ll need to qualify to enter the music, singing, dancing, and even whistling competitions, they are only part of the story. The impromptu evening sessions, rowdy sing-alongs, and céilís (traditional dances) are what really draw the crowds.
Hughes, Dublin
You’ll find traditional music sessions in pubs all over Dublin, from the manufactured craic in Temple Bar to the folksy tunes in ever-popular O’Donoghues. However, if you want to see some serious musicians, head for Hughes. Expect a decent pint, excellent sessions, set-dancing, and shaggy-bearded locals with misty eyes.
The Cobblestone, Dublin
Call into this cozy Smithfield institution and pull up a chair beside some of Ireland’s best players. The Cobblestone has been in the Mulligan family for five generations, and they take their music very seriously, hosting a session seven nights a week. The first Tuesday of every month sees the venue running Na Piobairí Uilleann (pipers session), while the back venue regularly hosts gigs, sessions, classes, and talks.
The Crane Bar, Galway
The music at the brightly colored Crane is just as it should be: no egos, no pretension, just addictive, toe-tapping rhythms and a heartfelt love of the craft. Few pubs have space to dance, but the atmospheric old Crane is an exception and is the best place in Galway to catch a céilí in full swing.
Murray’s Bar, Inishbofin Island
Just off the coast of County Galway lies Inishbofin, a tranquil island measuring just under 6km long by 4km wide. Spend the day walking its beautiful, unspoilt beaches before calling into Murray’s Bar in Doonmore Hotel for a music session led by local and visiting singers and musicians. Warm yourself by the turf fire and try their fresh seafood and home-cooked specialties!
Willie Clancy Summer School, Co Clare
Some of the best musicians in the world gather in Miltown Malbay for Ireland’s largest traditional music school. Alongside expert workshops at this eight-day event are lectures, recitals, céilís, and exhibitions. Day and night, the pubs are jammed and music comes from every direction as informal sessions pop up in the town’s bars and spill out onto the streets.
De Barra’s Folk Club, Clonakilty
Flutes, fiddles, bodhráns, pipes, and mandolins cover the walls at this temple of traditional music in Co. Cork. De Barra’s, with its vibrant yet easy-going attitude, offers intimate gigs in the sitting room, a purpose-built auditorium, and a long list of big-name regulars.
McDermotts Pub, Doolin
Tucked away in the wilds of west Clare is a small town boasting three great music pubs. Lots of musicians reside in this uniquely rocky area, and McDermotts is the locals’ favorite. If it’s standing room only, head for nearby McGann’s or O’Connor’s, though there’s no guarantee of a seat there either.
An Spailpín Fánach, Cork
Sitting just across the road from the Beamish brewery, you’re guaranteed a decent pint at the old-world Spailpín Fánach. Much loved for its laid-back sessions, open fires, and snug corners, it’s the place to quietly nurse a drink, join the craic, or simply nod in the corner and let the melody waft over you.
The Corner House, Cork
A truly traditional family-run pub in the heart of Cork City, The Corner House consistently offers great music. Most Mondays feature sets from the Lee Valley String Band, while Wednesday night trad sessions led by The Four Star Trio have garnered a cult following. Sessions also take place on Thursday evenings and the first Friday of every month.
Joe Watty’s Bar, Kilronan
Take a trip to Joe Watty’s Bar on Inis Mór, the largest of the Aran Islands, and you’re almost guaranteed a jig. This is one of the island’s oldest and most traditional pubs, with trad sessions every night in summer and a mellow atmosphere that lets tourists shake a leg. Purists might object to the come-al-ye attitude, but there’s no arguing with the music.
Leos Tavern, Crolly, Donegal
The enigmatic, undulating rhythms of Enya and Clannad wooed the world in the 1980s, and Leo’s Tavern is where their sound was born. Set between the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged peak of Mount Errigal, it’s a place for legendary sessions and is adorned with the gold and platinum discs of Leo’s famous children.
The Marine Bar, Dungarvan
This family-run establishment in Waterford is renowned far and wide for hosting one of the best Irish music sessions. Led by owner and musician Christy O’Neill, the Marine Bar features live traditional and folk music every Saturday and Monday night, while every Friday sees The Fireside Sessions, an intimate evening of music, song, and stories by the fire. Everyone is encouraged to join in, so if you play an instrument or can sing a song, stop by and don’t be shy.
Matt Malloy’s, Westport
Matt Malloy, the fife player from the Chieftains, runs this old-school pub where Mayo’s musical heritage vividly comes to life. Typically, lively trad sessions take place in the back room most nights. Veteran musicians have been known to stop by to croon a few classics. Alternatively, you’ll find Matt Molloy’s Yard Bar out the back, a venue in its own right where many night-time gigs are held.
The Harbour Bar, Bray
In addition to being one of the coziest pubs in all of Ireland, The Harbour Bar consistently serves up something interesting, be it a local live band in the main venue, a pint of delicious craft beer, or a mouth-watering toasted sandwich. Unmissable trad sessions take place in the front bar every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 9pm to 11pm, along with Sunday evenings from 4pm to 6pm.
Make it happen
For more information on traditional Irish music and culture, festivals, events, and gigs, visit www.comhaltas.ie.
This article was originally published in March 2011 and was last updated in July 2019 by James Gabriel Martin.
