Here’s where to go in Mexico’s Quintana Roo region beyond the popular hot spots.
For many travelers, a visit to Quintana Roo begins with Cancun and ends with Tulum. That stretch of crystalline coastline is among the most-visited travel destinations not only in Mexico, but in the entire world. For those who have dared to venture further south than Tulum, there’s a whole other heartbeat of Mexico that’s pulsing just below the surface.
Chetumal
Say it with us: Chetumal. You’ll be hearing this name more and more. While many people think Cancun is the capital of Quintana Roo, it’s actually the city of Chetumal, which sits just a quick hop north from the border with Belize. As of Dec. 1, American Airlines began offering direct flights from Miami to Chetumal, which is the beginning of some major changes for the destination.
Chetumal is a quiet city — for now. Until recently, travelers who wanted to explore the southern half of Quintana Roo would either make the four-hour drive from Cancun or transfer in Mexico City for a flight into the capital. However, the new direct flight from Miami means that vibrations are coming to this city on the bay, which will serve as the newest entry point from which to explore the southern Caribbean coast of Quintana Roo.
The city itself radiates a more Caribbean vibe with multicultural influences that have shaped the landscape. As Chetumal bridges Mexico, the Caribbean, and Central America, you’ll find elements from each region, as well as touches from Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. Consequently, it’s a cultural melting pot at its core, and being surrounded on three sides by the Chetumal Bay gives it a distinctly laid-back and beachy atmosphere.
From Chetumal, travelers will be able to easily access everything this part of Mexico has to offer. It’s no more than an hour away from ancient Mayan ruins, like the archeological site of Kohunlich, as well as the burgeoning, eco-chic lake town of Bacalar and the sleepy, bohemian beachfront destination of Mahahual.
Bacalar
If you’ve heard of one place in the Zona Maya, chances are it’s Bacalar. This small village sits on a massive lake of the same name, and it’s one of the most popular getaways for locals from Chetumal and Cancun, as well as the flurry of backpackers who have ventured this way on their budget-friendly travels.
The ethos of Bacalar revolves around preserving its natural beauty. Residents cherish their lake, an approximately 26-mile-long body of freshwater that’s connected to the Caribbean Sea by a series of channels. The lake sparkles with shades of turquoise and crystal, reminiscent of the warm, shallow waters of the sea. Centuries ago, these channels offered explorers a pathway further inland. You can see the remains of the old San Felipe Fort overlooking the lagoon, which was constructed to protect Spain’s southern stronghold against piracy. Laguna de Bacalar, affectionately known as the “Lake of Seven Colors,” is named for the various blue shades that swirl across the surface throughout the day.
Moreover, the vibe is evolving. Those backpackers are returning to Bacalar a little older, but with a lot more money to spend, and restaurants and hotels are transforming to meet demand. Try Casa Hormiga, an oasis of serenity hidden behind massive, ochre-colored walls. Step through the elaborately carved wooden door and immerse yourself in stunning aesthetics and decor (think Morocco meets the Mexican Caribbean). The centerpiece of the resort is an enormous thatched palapa roof, which covers the main dining area, library, honor bar, and yoga platform, called the Nest. At the heart of the resort is its beautifully designed pool, surrounded by hundreds of rescued plants, towering trees, and slate-colored walls.
Mahahual
On the other side of Bacalar is the Caribbean coastal village of Mahahual. This locale gained recognition thanks to a small cruise port and is situated about as far south along the Quintana Roo coast as you can go before entering Belize territory.
The atmosphere here is, for the most part, serene. Imagine powder-soft beaches, swaying palm trees, small rental villas, and boutique hotels. While it may be small in comparison to towns like Playa del Carmen and Tulum, Mahahual offers a variety of dining and lodging options, making it a unique destination. Nevertheless, when a cruise ship is in the area, things can become a bit busier. Still, compared to cruise ports like Cozumel and Puerto Vallarta, the foot traffic in Mahahual remains low.
Once the cruise ships leave, you’re left with a Caribbean-style retreat featuring picture-perfect beaches and significantly fewer crowds than almost anywhere else in Quintana Roo. If you travel even further south, toward Xcalak, you might discover a beach that feels exclusively yours.
Regarding accommodations, outside of downtown Mahahual, set within the mangrove forest, is the eco-chic boutique resort of Almaplena. With only eight rooms that open directly onto the beach, this hidden gem boasts prime beachfront access, a fabulous Mediterranean restaurant, and a section of the world-famous Mesoamerican Reef situated directly behind the resort.
