Summary:
FROM STEPHEN: Onwards to Kabul
Spending around a week in the Northern regions, it was time to head south. I caught the three AM public bus from Mazar E-Sharif to Kabul via the Salang Pass. Crossing the Salang is fascinating, as you pass by small mountain villages that consist of only mud brick structures clinging impossibly to the cliffs. Eventually, you reach the ten-kilometer USSR built tunnel, which is dark and rather scary, as it is slowly collapsing due to lack of funds for maintenance. The light at the end of the tunnel appears after fifteen minutes of darkness. When you finally emerge, you find yourself in a glacial blizzard atop the Hindu Kush Range. From here, it’s all downhill to Kabul.
Shocking Arrival in Kabul
Arriving in Kabul is a sensory shock. The cacophony of buses and cars choking the roads, exhaust fumes saturating the air; bearded, turban-wearing men shouting and selling their wares; women hidden beneath the bright blue Burqa standing amidst the chaotic traffic, begging. The disarray of buildings is among the first things you will notice—it appears as though homes are randomly dropped wherever people felt like placing them along the mountainsides.
Exploring Chicken Street
The bus dropped me off near downtown where I walked to a small guest house near Chicken Street. Chicken Street is a remnant of the hippie days, lined with shops selling traditional Afghan handicrafts and antiques, now catering primarily to NGOs and military personnel rather than adventurous hipster tourists. Most shops I entered claimed I was the first tourist they’d seen in thirty years.
Wandering Through the Bazaar
Walking the city is an exceptional experience. I ventured from Chicken Street into the Kabul Bazaar, where the Faroshi Bird Market is located. This market remains unchanged since medieval times, selling pet bird supplies in a narrow lane too narrow for cars, ensuring foot traffic is the only option. Almost every shop invites you in for tea. Further into the bazaar, you will witness men hand crafting Afghan clothing, banging metal pots into shape, and selling local fruits from nearby villages.
Monuments and Mosques
As you exit the market, you enter the river area of Kabul. Shah E-Doh Mosque rests on the banks of the river, an unusual sight that resembles more of an Italian church than a mosque. From here, take a taxi up to the old presidential palace or the Nadir Shah Hill Mausoleum, both sites flanked by graffiti-covered ruins, victims of the war. The uphill trek offers a breathtaking view of the city.
About Stephen: The Uncharted Backpacker Biography
Hi, I’m Stephen Gollan, the Uncharted Backpacker! I have traveled to over 80 countries in the past nine years, seeking unique destinations often overlooked by others. My recent adventures include backpacking across Libya, Pakistan, Iran, and Iraq. Rather than lounging on a beach, my heart is set on exploration—hiking mountains in Pakistan or traversing North Africa. My travel blog www.unchartedbackpacker.com serves as a platform offering insights into “off the beaten track” destinations, hoping to inspire your next adventure. Travel enriches life, presenting experiences far more valuable than possessions. Join me as we uncover the world through a unique lens, promising memories to cherish.
