Summary of the Bay of Poets
The Bay of Poets on the Ligurian coast is a quieter, roomier alternative to Cinque Terre.
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Articles about travel destinations may fluctuate in popularity, but the bond between America and Italy remains strong, evidenced by numerous magazine covers and social media excitement surrounding its cities and landmarks. While places like Sicily and Puglia are emerging favorites, iconic spots—such as Rome, Florence, Venice, Lake Como, and the Amalfi Coast—continue to draw travelers even post-pandemic.
Cinque Terre, despite being a renowned area, has become painfully accommodated to tourist influx. This popularity has led to crowds that can rival those of amusement parks, prompting many to seek alternatives. My recent visit to Riomaggiore underscored this reality, as I navigated through throngs of visitors to capture a quintessential photo, likely shared by countless others on social media.
However, there is much more to the Ligurian coast beyond these popular sites. During Ferragosto, Italy’s traditional August holiday, I discovered the Bay of Poets, or Golfo dei Poeti, a haven of tranquility largely unspoiled by mass tourism. This picturesque area invites you to explore the Italian Riviera, celebrated as a muse for literary greats like Dante, Shelley, and Lord Byron.
Explore the Bay of Poets using various transportation options, such as ferries, buses, trains, rental cars, or mopeds. Accommodation is predominantly boutique hotels, family-run bed-and-breakfasts, and Airbnbs, making for a more personal stay as opposed to large resorts.
La Spezia
This bustling port city serves as a prime hub for exploring the Bay of Poets. La Spezia is home to Italy’s largest naval base and a cruise ship terminal catering to tourists visiting Pisa and Cinque Terre. Yet, those who delve deeper into its charm will find an elegant downtown featuring a daily market in Piazza Cavour (Monday through Saturday). Locals frequent this market for fresh produce, seafood, cheese, and cut flowers. Don’t miss the chance to savor a cup of espresso while shopping or to bring home some local pesto, a culinary staple of the region.
As you wander, take in the stunning Art Nouveau apartment buildings and quaint shops, or enjoy a local meal at Michelin-starred restaurants. The waterfront promenade is ideal for a leisurely stroll, leading to seasonal ferries bound for nearby Porto Venere and the island of Palmaria, which offers beaches and hiking trails. If you prefer staying in La Spezia, explore the Technical Naval Museum and wind down with a drink at La Spezia Brewing Company.
Lerici
Arriving in Lerici feels magical, with its pastel-hued harbor resembling a village from Cinque Terre. The welcoming center features outdoor cafés perfect for enjoying aperitivos next to the scenic marina. Delight in a delicious meal at one of the town’s fish restaurants, characterized by a commanding 12-century castle perched on a nearby promontory. Venture uphill along narrow lanes lined with charming eateries and end your explorations at a quaint church. If you’re visiting during the day, don’t forget your swimsuit—there’s beautiful coastline to explore.
La Serra
Perched high above Lerici, this quiet village offers panoramic views of the Bay of Poets, framed beautifully by nearby olive trees. Discover its maze of narrow alleyways and peaceful piazzas, retreating to a local café for a refreshing Campari and soda while enjoying the Mediterranean backdrop. For dinner, consider the seasonal offerings at Osteria L’Orto di Ameste or venture deeper into the mountains to the rustic Osteria di Redarca for an outdoor dining experience.
Montemarcello
This enchanting hilltop village is a favorite among hikers who take advantage of the stunning trails in Parco Naturale Regionale di Montemarcello. Here, you’ll find olive groves, pine trees, and vibrant landscapes overlooking the Bay of Poets. This region also presents breathtaking drives perfect for capturing picturesque shots around the Magra River and the Carrara marble-clad Apuan Alps, celebrated as the marble capital of the world.
Sarzana
This delightful town, situated across the Magra River from Lerici, is worth a visit, especially for those seeking a more serene experience. Sarzana boasts a historic center centered around an ancient castle, with charming streets filled with antique shops, artisan stalls, boutiques, and cozy eateries that come alive in the evening. On Thursdays, check out the outdoor market featuring local food and crafts.
Le Grazie
On your way to Porto Venere, don’t miss Le Grazie—an idyllic waterfront village adorned with colorful boats and scenic hillsides. This hidden gem features a small beach and quaint cafés perfect for grabbing a gelato while enjoying a leisurely seaside walk.
Porto Venere
This charming destination offers fewer tourists compared to Cinque Terre, plus a relaxed ambiance distinct from Portofino. Porto Venere is slightly off the beaten path, as it is not directly accessible via train from La Spezia, making it a hidden gem often overlooked. Once you arrive at this breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage site, you’ll be captivated by its colorful architecture. Take a leisurely stroll through the quaint streets of Old Town, accompanied by a delicious slice of focaccia, embodying another Ligurian delight.
Don’t forget to visit Byron’s Grotto, the poet’s serene swimming and meditation haven from the 1800s, and enjoy the local scene, sampling fresh seafood and Ligurian delicacies. If energy permits, consider hiking up to Doria Castle for sweeping views of the Bay of Poets or planning a ferry outing to Palmaria Island, where exploration awaits amidst stunning natural landscapes.
Lucca and Pietrasanta
Located conveniently close to the Bay of Poets, the picturesque towns of Lucca and Pietrasanta make for wonderful day trips. Lucca, known for its beautiful walled city, allows for pleasant walking, jogging, or biking along its encircling paths. Visit the Puccini Museum, showcasing the composer’s life and works, or attend the annual Puccini Festival during the summer.
Pietrasanta, where Michelangelo once sourced his marble, today hosts a vibrant artist community featuring sculptors and filmmakers, including acclaimed director Alfonso Cuarón. Spend time meandering through galleries and workshops filled with stunning art—perfect for immersing yourself in the creative atmosphere of this refined town.
Riomaggiore
Should your stay in the Bay of Poets allow for a visit to Cinque Terre, plan to go in the morning, preferably midweek, before the onslaught of tourists arrives. Alternatively, consider reserving a table at a waterfront restaurant like Nessun Dorma, where you can relish the scenic views in peace.
