1. Introduction
For Chef Javier Plascencia, the village of Todos Santos on Mexico’s Baja California Coast has everything: the food, the views, and the people.
2. Discovering Todos Santos
On the southernmost point of the Baja California coast lies Los Cabos. Here, you’ll find the sixth busiest airport in Mexico, the famed el arco rock formation, and plenty of spring breakers taking advantage of the weather, nightlife, and all-inclusive deals. For some travelers, it’s the epitome of a tropical getaway. Those looking for true escapism and relaxation without the crowds, however, will need to go 50 miles further up the coast to Todos Santos—a destination known for its history, culinary contributions, and small-town feel.
The road from the Los Cabos International Airport is direct yet far from monotonous; expect unparalleled views of the Sierra Laguna mountains flanked by cacti in every direction. In about an hour, you’ll enter the rich cultural haven of Todos Santos. Although Todos Santos may have only four percent of the population of the neighboring city hub (roughly 7,000 residents), it is a vibrant destination brimming with opportunity. With its unique position between the sea, desert, and mountains, activities like swimming, surfing, hiking, bird watching, and fishing abound, along with dishes made from local ingredients that you’ll dream about long after your trip has concluded. Consequently, how do travelers choose what to add to their itineraries?
For that, an expert guide comes in handy. We turned to chef Javier Plascencia, ambassador of the Baja coast and owner of several restaurants in the region, including Todos Santos’ Jazamango. Chef Plascencia embodies the magical aura of the town itself, with a bit of that elusive “X factor.” When he walks into a room, he’s as charismatic as he is impressive and as friendly as he is intimidating. His knowledge of both the Mexican culinary scene and the region of Todos Santos is exquisite; he was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2016 and has opened seven restaurants over the last 12 years.
For Plascencia, Todos Santos has everything. “You can find extraordinary culinary moments, surrounded by the deep blue ocean, incredible views of the desert, tropical palm trees, and picturesque, colorful streets,” he remarked. Those “culinary moments” include Plascencia’s newest initiative, the Todos Santos & Pescadero Culinary Experiences, a food festival that first took place in June 2021. Over those four inaugural days, Plascencia and his team hosted Mexico’s most renowned chefs, mixologists, and food critics for farm-to-table meals and demonstrations. This approach allows the sharing of the “unforgettable farms, beaches, and people” of the region.
This is why he serves as the ideal resource for travelers eager to create the perfect day in Todos Santos. Below are chef Javier Plascencia’s recommendations for where to stay, what to see, and the best dining spots in Todos Santos.
3. Where to Stay in Todos Santos
For Plascencia, all of the hotels in Todos Santos “offer unique charm and service experiences,” but just a couple made his list for specially curated accommodations during the Todos Santos & Pescadero Culinary Experiences.
Hotel San Cristóbal
Located down a long dirt road and directly adjacent to a fisherman’s landing is Hotel San Cristóbal. The property combines regional culture with an aura of escapism. Directly behind the hotel, you’ll find steep trails to explore before the sun pushes you toward the pool. If you manage to secure a chair on the western side of the hotel, hold onto it; the views of the rolling waves complemented by the descending sun will mesmerize any traveler.
Paradero Todos Santos
Paradero focuses on offering a perspective of the Todos Santos landscape. Although similar in size to Hotel San Cristóbal, being about 20 minutes away from the beach provides a distinct escape. While the previous hotel boasts bright colors, Paradero’s palette is more subdued. Envision hammocks, floor pillows from Oaxaca, and outdoor tubs inviting you to soak in the peaceful nature surrounding Todos Santos.
4. What to See in Todos Santos
If you’re looking for an activity to work up a sweat, Plascencia recommends the trails and beaches of Punta Lobos: “The hiking is amazing, with views that are absolutely to die for,” he says. After your hike, pack your bathing suit and towel and visit one of the beaches. “I always enjoy surfing and spending time at the beaches in Todos Santos,” he adds. Playa Pescadero, La Pastora, and Playa Los Cerritos are some local favorites for a relaxing day by the ocean.
Once you’ve had your fill of the sand, head to the town center. “Downtown Todos Santos is filled with small shops offering handcrafted treasures from local Mexican artisans,” explains Plascencia.
5. Where to Eat and Drink in Todos Santos
If you’re looking for food outside of your accommodations, Plascencia has some great recommendations. For breakfast, he suggests going to Taller 17. “The pastry chef and the coffee are incredible. Be sure to order the banana biscuit or the salty bread,” he recommends. For those willing to drive a bit further, about five miles outside of town, delicious breakfast tacos await at Carnitas Machin. Their homemade corn tortillas are worth the short trip from the center of Todos Santos.
When it comes to lunch, there’s no better spot than Chef Plascencia’s farm-to-table restaurant, Jazamango. His personal recommendations include trying the Baja oysters, wood-grilled chocolate clams, or the succulent grilled bone marrow.
For dinner, Plascencia insists “Dūm or Ristorante Tre Galline, hands down. Both offer a unique dining experience, showcasing what makes the Todos Santos food culture so unforgettable.”
