Summary
West Virginia’s Scenic Train Rides
West Virginia is a haven for scenic train rides. A travel writer sampled the steam trains available to discover the best trips the state has to offer.
Imagine enjoying a glass of wine in an elegant train car. Unfortunately, at the last minute, it was found that the Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad does not serve alcohol on its cocktail-hour excursion, not even as a BYOB option.
Departing from Romney, West Virginia’s oldest town, the Potomac Eagle gets its name from its route along the South Branch of the Potomac River, characterized by an abundance of eagles. This is particularly true in the high-walled, thickly forested canyon called the Trough, a name given by George Washington during a 1748 surveying expedition. The Sunset Trough trip lasts three hours and promises “eagle sightings in a soft canyon glow.”
The Potomac Eagle Experience
The train features two engines, one at either end. Pulling us during the first leg of the journey through the Trough Canyon is the Potomac Eagle 8250, a diesel road switcher built in 1955 for the Canadian Pacific Railway. On the opposite end is the photogenic 1755, utilized as a prop in the 2023 movie “A Man Called Otto.” Coaches, dining cars, and an open-air gondola—often referred to as a “gon”—are included for those wishing for a wide view of the Trough and its eagles.
Meal service starts shortly after our 5 p.m. departure. Based on ticket class—and corresponding price—the food options range from snack-bar items to a four-course dinner prepared on the train. The railroad now has new owners who are pursuing an alcohol license and have invested significantly in the onboard cuisine.
According to Gretta Ramsey, the food and beverage manager, “We do all the food preparation and cooking right here on the train,” emphasizing the high standard of meals presented. The menu features more choices and local food items made with higher-quality ingredients.
At a brief stop before entering the Trough, guests can move to the open gondola. Despite rain threatening, not all passengers choose to take this opportunity. Yet, as we enter the Trough, an eagle dive-bombs from above, gliding just above the water’s surface. Another eagle soars over the canyon until it’s out of sight, while two eaglet siblings cautiously paddle their wings above the river, returning to their nest.
We are fortunate to have Robert “BJ” Lefever, an eagle spotter, accompanying us on this train. He is knowledgeable about their nests and hunting patterns and quickly identifies various eagles in the treetops. Within the first five minutes in the Trough, six eagles are spotted, thanks to Lefever’s keen eye.
“They call me ‘eagle-eye’ around here,” he chuckles.
Cass Scenic Railroad and Its Annual Parade of Steam
The following day, a different scenic train was sampled in West Virginia. In the quaint town of Cass, located 110 miles from Romney, Cass Scenic Railroad State Park is hosting its annual Parade of Steam. This event showcases five Shay steam locomotives, emitting toots, chuffing black coal smoke, and steaming through their piston valves and exhaust ports, showcasing the grandeur of the Iron Horse.
The magnificent scene when I arrived was breathtaking. These locomotives, weighing between 40 and 154 tons, are formidable, generating ear-splitting noise and a distinct smell of burnt coal. Ash and embers fill the air, leaving onlookers blinking and rubbing their eyes. The tracks are coated in engine grease, while water drips from locomotive boilers onto the ground.
It is, undeniably, a spectacle to behold.
Observing all this was visitor Patrick Tabor, a miner from a rock quarry near Roanoke, Virginia, located three hours away.
“I’ve always been a railfan,” he expressed, sharing his plans for two rides that weekend. “I grew up in an area rich in railroad history. I especially enjoy the steam trains.”
Another visitor, Nathan Watson, originally from Cass, reminisced about the steam locomotives and their nostalgic whistles echoing through the valleys.
“My grandpa was a brakeman here,” he mentioned, “and lived across the river. I used to hop on the trains when I was a kid. I just love them.”
The railroad commenced operations in 1901 to transport timber from the mountains to the mill established by the West Virginia Pulp and Paper Company. Given the steep grades—reaching as much as 9 percent—Shay locomotives were employed due to their revolutionary design that relies on geared wheels, thus improving traction. Following the end of the lumber and mill business in 1960, West Virginia’s state park system acquired the rolling stock, engines, and right of way. Tourist excursions commenced in 1963.
At the ticket office, a sign overhead reads, “Special Rides Today.” Upon inquiry, a staff member mentioned available hour-long steam-powered rides in vintage parlor cars along the Greenbrier River, with the next leaving in 15 minutes. Without hesitation, I purchased a ticket and quickly located passenger car 3607, settling into my assigned four-person table by the window on the left side of the car.
Our train follows the Greenbrier Branch right-of-way of the former C&O Railroad, which historically sent trains to Cass to transport milled lumber to the market. It turned out that we were riding a slightly abbreviated version of Cass Scenic Railroad’s latest itinerary, the Greenbrier Express, using the same cars and steam locomotives.
The Greenbrier River Valley is teeming with wildlife, offering opportunities to see mergansers, mallards, deer, and even black bears. On this trip, we spotted an array of wildlife, save for the elusive bears. The shallow river, approximately 30 feet wide, occupies most of the valley floor, leaving the train clinging precariously to a steep hillside. The steam whistle reverberates among the slopes, while beautiful cascades froth down the hillsides, merging into the river.
Behind our locomotive, the rolling stock includes a coal car, U.S. Mail Rail Post Office 706, West Virginia Central diner 202, Western Maryland Railroad passenger cars 3607 and 835, along with Chesapeake & Ohio caboose 90658. Despite the eclectic mix of cars, it is a strikingly handsome train.
The Journey to Bald Knob
The following day, I again venture to Cass. I planned to stay overnight in one of the former Cass Company houses, built for mill and railroad workers in the early 1900s and now available for rent. The main event at this time is one of the most scenic rail journeys in the country: the ride to Bald Knob, West Virginia’s third-highest peak, on the Cass Scenic Railroad.
As we boarded at the Cass station, each passenger received a plastic bag containing a “hobo lunch” consisting of a hamburger bun, cold cuts, cheese, macaroni salad, cookies, apple sauce, and bottled water. While some began to eat immediately, others chose to wait until reaching Bald Knob, two hours up the mountain.
Our locomotive, Shay No. 11, constructed by the Lima Locomotive Works of Ohio in 1923, is designed for power and grip rather than speed. These engines can reach 11 mph if necessary but average only around 6 mph on most excursions.
The rolling stock on the Bald Knob excursion mainly consists of gondolas previously used for transporting cut trees to the mill. The state park fitted roofs over these cars, adding double-sided wooden bench seats in the center. Some passengers brought light jackets anticipating cooler conditions atop the mountain, which they utilized as seat cushions during the five-hour round-trip ride.
Our ascent begins at 2,452 feet, and the summit, 11 miles ahead, reaches 4,842 feet. Given the challenging curves, not all steam locomotives are designed to handle such steep climbs.
At one point, we reach a switch, reversing direction onto a new set of tracks. Our locomotive, previously pushing us, now pulls the train. Coal smoke unexpectedly billows into the open passenger cars. The crew advises us to squint and avert our gaze if a cloud heads our way. Eyewash is available for anyone who requires it, and many do.
As we progress, three magnificent vistas unfold where the tracks rise above the treetops on the downslope side. Mountain ranges appear, fading from lush green to light blue on the horizon. The timberlands here showcase a rich variety of trees: maple, oak, beech, birch, and the highly sought-after red spruce, favored by lumber mills for its grain, strength, and beauty.
Finally, we arrive at Bald Knob, completing the two-hour journey from Cass. Picnic tables dot a sprawling meadow. From deep within the valley, the distant high, lonesome whistle of another Shay resonates, a sound that is both joyous and mournful.
Seated at one of the picnic tables, I opened my day pack, hoping to find some remnants of my hobo lunch. To my astonishment, I discovered the bottle of wine I had brought days earlier for the Potomac Eagle trip but had forgotten to use. Along with it, I found a Par Mar gas station coffee cup, indicating the chance encounter of joining the two items was quite the coincidence!
Although no alcohol is permitted in the state park, I found it hard to resist atop the knob. Thus, I opened the wine, filled the coffee cup halfway, and quietly raised a toast to railroads everywhere, especially the ones with a rich legacy.
