Summary
Introduction to Montolieu
Set between two rivers in the foothills of the Black Mountains, the town of Montolieu has all the dreamy trappings of French country life. I arrived from London around breakfast time to find empty lanes that ran through tiny plazas to a large buttressed Gothic church. Wooden shutters in cornflower blue and poppy red echoed the colors of the region’s wildflowers. However, around 10 a.m., the scene transformed. Shutters opened, and trestle tables laden with books began to fill the streets. Browsers arrived and began sifting through the volumes.
Vibrant Arts Community
While other villages in this region rest on their charming, sleepy laurels, Montolieu has spent the past 30 years building a dynamic arts community. Although it has just 821 inhabitants and no ATMs, the town is remarkable for its 16 bookstores, more than 20 public and private art studios, and a cosmopolitan population that hails from around the globe. During my visit, word on the street suggested that an Israeli pop star had recently bought a house there, further enhancing its appeal.
Exploring the Bookstores
It all began in 1990 when Michel Braibant, a Belgian bookbinder living in nearby Carcassonne, encouraged collectors and small-business owners to open bookshops in Montolieu. Moreover, he helped raise funds to establish the Musée des Arts et Métiers du Livre, dedicated to the practice of bookbinding. This effort was inspired by Hay-on-Wye, a town in Wales known for its love of books.
To learn more about life in the village, I met hoteliers Bart and Marieke de Jonge in the cypress garden of La Manufacture Royale over glasses of Blanquette de Limoux, a local sparkling wine. The de Jonges converted an 18th-century linen mill into a high-design apartment building two decades ago. The property resonates with Montolieu’s past, as it once produced some of France’s finest linens with a royal warrant from King Louis XV. However, production dwindled in the mid-20th century until Braibant’s arrival revitalized the town.
Creative Workshops
Today, Montolieu’s streets feel like an open-air library. At La Manufacture & Eclectic, a shop specializing in art and design books, I talked to shopkeepers Sophie Chaverou and Sébastien Ducrocq. Ducrocq mentioned that their Montolieu outpost became significantly more successful than their Toulouse location, prompting them to relocate full-time. “The community is complementary rather than competitive,” Ducrocq shared, highlighting the village’s collaborative spirit.
Another favorite was La Rose des Vents, featuring a wood-paneled façade reminiscent of vintage Bordeaux and haphazard columns of stacked books. I found owner Marie-Hélène Guillaumot sorting through boxes of books in front while negotiating with a seller. Later, she guided me into a cavernous warehouse housing approximately 15,000 treasured tomes.
At the museum, I participated in a bookbinding workshop taught by Camille Grin, who is challenging stereotypes in a traditionally male field. We cut, glued, and hand-marbled paper while choosing colored threads to bind our creations. “In bookbinding, as in life, we must always move forward,” she said, illustrating her point with nimble fingers.
Other European Book Towns
Hay-on-Wye, Wales
This village on the Wales-England border is renowned for its 10-day literary festival held every May and its eclectic antiques shops, making it a must-visit for book lovers.
Damme, Belgium
Just outside Bruges, this beautiful Flanders town hosts monthly book fairs in the Market Square during the summer and in the Town Hall during the winter.
Mühlbeck-Friedersdorf, Germany
Two neighboring villages north of Leipzig united to create Germany’s first book village in the late 1990s, attracting literary enthusiasts from all over.
Fjærland, Norway
Every spring and summer, this stunning glacier-fringed village on a fjord will place bookshelves at bus stops, cafés, and ferry quays. Visiting in June allows participation in the annual festival.
