Discover North Kohala: Hidden Gems of Hawaii’s Big Island

Located approximately 20 miles north of Kona International Airport on “the Big Island” of Hawaii lies the quiet Kohala Coast. A drive north on Highway 270 takes you to the western port town of Kawaihae, past Lapakahi State Historical Park, and through the quiet towns of Hawi and Kapa’au to the beautiful Pololu Valley Overlook.

This geographically significant area features red and black rock fields, reminding visitors of centuries-old lava flows. The white sand beaches serve as a welcome sight for those seeking repose from life’s hustle and bustle.

1. North Kohala

The North Kohala region remains less developed, making it an ideal destination for travelers seeking tranquility. The mountain roads have minimal traffic, allowing you to explore the beauty of old Hawaii at your own pace. Luxurious resorts along Highway 19 near Kailua-Kona, such as the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, provide excellent accommodation options. From there, venture north and inland to discover the region’s ranchlands and paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture.

2. Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site

An alternative excursion on Highway 270 leads to Kawaihae with a stop at Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site. This attraction, managed by the National Park Service, includes 77 acres, the Pu’ukohola Heiau and Mailekini Heiau temples, along with the John Young House. The legendary Kamehameha the Great built the Pu’ukohola Heiau temple (or “hill of the whale”) in the 1700s to honor his war god to aid his efforts to conquer and unite all of Hawaii. The John Young House was home to an English seaman who assisted Kamehameha with weaponry. The park is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. It is advisable to visit in the morning to avoid missing it during your return drive.

3. Lapakahi State Historical Park and Mahukona Beach Park

Continuing on Highway 270 leads to Lapakahi State Historical Park, which marks the site of an ancient Hawaiian fishing village. Hike along the mile-long trail that weaves through the village, with markers highlighting points of interest. Some structures in this park have been well preserved, while others suffered damage from storms. Restoration efforts are ongoing to maintain the park’s traditional Hawaiian houses and ruins. Allocate about an hour for this educational excursion.

Just a mile north of Lapakahi State Historical Park, Mahukona Beach Park awaits. While it lacks a traditional beach, the park offers swimming, snorkeling, boating opportunities, and camping (by permit only). Barbecue pits dot the area, historically a harbor used by the now-defunct Kohala Sugar Company. On clear days, enjoy views of the neighboring island of Maui, situated thirty miles away.

4. Mo’okini Heiau and the Birthplace of Kamehameha the Great

Near mile marker 20, look out for a turnoff on your left to Upolu Airport. This leads to Mo’okini Heiau National Landmark and the birthplace of Kamehameha the Great. The main road dead-ends at the airport, but a dirt road on the left will take you to the historical site. In heavy rains, this road may become impassable. Nevertheless, when dry, this brief side trip is worthwhile, especially in a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Over 1500 years old, the Mo’okini Heiau temple was established in 480 A.D. and dedicated to Ku, the Hawaiian god of war. The temple, roughly the size of a football field, is constructed from stones carried by hand from Pololu Valley, over 14 miles away. According to legend, the temple was completed in a single night.

A short distance away lies Kamehameha Akhi Aina Hanau, where Kamehameha the Great was born in 1758 as Hailey’s Comet passed above.

5. Hawi and the Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery

About a mile down the road from the airport turnoff, the charming town of Hawi awaits. This picturesque location is perfect for checking fuel levels and enjoying a meal at one of the top eateries on the Big Island, Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery. The restaurant features island-inspired cuisine in a tropical atmosphere with bamboo and rattan decor. Live entertainment occurs on weekends, plus a gift shop-gallery showcases Hawaiian koa woodcrafts.

Once a thriving sugar town, Hawi was home to the Kohala Sugar Company until its closure in 1970. The town has struggled since, but recent years have seen the establishment of craft shops and boutiques aimed at attracting tourists.

6. Kapaau and the Statue of Kamehameha the Great

Continuing east on Highway 270 leads you to Kapaau, renowned for its statue of Kamehameha the Great, which stands on the grounds of the former courthouse, now the Kohala Information Center. This statue is the original one commissioned by the Hawaii legislature in 1883 to commemorate King Kalakaua’s coronation. Unfortunately, the statue sank at sea when the ship transporting it from Paris wrecked. Insurance paid for the replacement that stands in Honolulu. The original statue, salvaged after being lost in the Falkland Islands, now proudly sits in Kapaau.

7. Pololu Valley Overlook

Highway 270 concludes at the 29-mile marker, leading to the Pololu Valley—a breathtaking destination and the first of five stunning valleys along the coastal stretch. The views of the dramatic coastline and valleys beyond are spectacular. Once home to numerous wet taro plantations, the Pololu Valley is now a favored, secluded spot for camping.

The walk from the Pololu Valley Overlook down to the valley floor rewards visitors with fantastic views, though the return hike can be a test of resolve, particularly if the path is damp. Exercise caution with every step, especially during wet conditions.

8. Parker Ranch

As you retrace your route to Hawi, take the turnoff to Highway 250, or Kohala Mountain Road. This scenic road winds through paniolo territory to Waimea, home of Parker Ranch, historically the largest privately owned ranch in the United States. While you travel, you’ll observe grazing cattle across Kohala Mountain’s rolling slopes, which rise to 5408 feet—the largest and oldest peak among the Big Island’s mountains. This regal road through the ranch is also lined with ironwood trees, providing glimpses of horses grazing in the pastures beyond. Unfortunately, much of this land has been sold for development, leading to residential subdivisions encroaching upon the ranch’s open spaces.

9. Sunset Over Kawaihae Harbor

As your day draws to a close, stop at Kawaihae Harbor, where you may observe outrigger canoe clubs practicing as the sun sets. This picturesque location serves as a beautiful conclusion to your day trip through the historic Kohala Region—an area certainly worth exploring on any journey to Hawaii’s Big Island.