Explore Nice: 3-Day Guided Tour of the French Riviera

You’re in the heart of the French Riviera but you’re also in a French city where the locals outnumber the visitors. So get a slice of French life and venture out early to the Cours Saleya. The vibrant, colorful market square is where everybody comes to shop for the freshest fruit and vegetables, fat, succulent olives and olive oil, exotic flowers, cheese, bread, and charcuterie of every kind imaginable. It’s surrounded by cafés where terraces spill out onto the pavement so you can sip a coffee and watch the world go by. On a Monday, the antique and flea market lasts from 7am to 6pm.

Day 1 in Nice – Start at the Market in the Morning

The Cours Saleya is at the heart of the old town. It’s overlooked by the Chapelle de la Misericorde which if you’re there on Tuesday from 2.30 to 5pm is worth dropping into for its glorious rich 17th-century baroque decoration. Walk a little north to rue du Collet and Oliviera (8 Bis rue du Collet, 00 33 (0)4 93 13 06 45) where olive oils of all vintages and pressings are taken seriously. Taste before you buy and get inside knowledge from the staff.

Walk north from here to Place Rossetti and grab an ice cream at the wonderful ice-cream parlour, Fenocchio at No. 2, tel: 00 33 (0)4 93 80 72 52. It’s open daily from 9am to midnight and offers a mind-boggling variety of flavors including olive oil, lavender, and thyme.

A little further north, you come to the Palais Lascaris which showcases how grandly the nobility lived. Built in 1665 by Jean-Paul Lascaris, Field Marsh to the Duke of Savoy, the palace is sumptuous with tapestries and frescoes, grand staircases, and a large collection of historic musical instruments. Palais Lascaris is at 15 rue Droite, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 62 72 40. It’s open Wednesday to Monday 10am-6pm and is free.

Lunch

For lunch, try one of these delicious local specialities. Socca is similar to a crepe—a thin pancake made of chickpea flour and olive oil, baked and crisped in the oven, and seasoned with black pepper. Alternatively, enjoy another great Nice specialty—pizza.

Afternoon

After lunch, make your way to the Parc de la Colline du Chateau where the ancient Greeks founded the city of Nikaia. Despite the name, there’s no chateau here, but you do get a fabulous view of the city laid out before you and the sea beyond. This viewpoint provides an overview of one of the most spectacular parts of the French Riviera, revealing why artists like Renoir, Leger, Matisse, Picasso, and Marc Chagall chose to live here. You can climb the steps from rue de la Providence or monté du Chateau, or take the lift by the Tour Bellanda, which operates in summer from 9am-8pm, April and September from 9am-7pm, and October to March from 10am-6pm.

For modern art enthusiasts, the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC) at Promenade des Arts, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 97 13 42 01, is a must-visit. This museum features a powerful collection of modern art, focusing on French and American artists from the 1960s to today. The displays include renowned names such as Kenneth Noland, Larry Poons, Frank Stella, and major Pop artists like Warhol and Lichtenstein. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am-6pm and admission is free.

If modern art isn’t your preference, stroll around to the port where large ferries leave for Corsica and other Mediterranean islands while luxurious yachts bob in the sparkling sea.

If you’re visiting on a Friday, consider the unique tram tour available in the early evening. This open-air museum features 12 artworks, some illuminated at night. The guided tour in both French and English departs from Agence Ligne d’Azur, 3 place Massena, and requires advance reservations at the Tourist Office. Cost: Adults: 8 euros plus 2 euros for the transport ticket; children under 10: 3 euros; free transport for children under 4 years.

Insider Tip

If you’re a foodie, you’re in the right city. Consider taking a cooking class with Canadian chef and writer, Rosa Jackson at Les Petits Farcis. Rosa guides you through the Cours Saleya market, teaching you what to buy, how to choose, and where to go, followed by a visit to specialty shops like a cheese store. You will learn to cook with the ingredients you’ve selected in her charming old Nice apartment. This offers a delightful introduction to the food culture of Nice. Afterward, return to the Cours Saleya and shop like a local.

Day 2 in Nice – The Glittering Promenade des Anglais

Put on your glad rags and head for the most glamorous street in Nice and the best-known boulevard in France outside Paris. Start down by the sea, just west of the stately Opera and the Jardins Albert 1er. Here you’ll find the Theatre de Verdure, which hosts concerts but more importantly, the annual Jazz Festival that takes over the entire town in July and is well worth attending.

This begins Nice’s most renowned boulevard, the Promenade des Anglais, established during the 19th century when grand milords from England flocked to the French Riviera to escape the northern weather. Follow their example and take a stroll along the ‘Prom,’ as it’s affectionately called. This 6-kilometer-long boulevard is lined with palm trees, with a vast pavement on one side and the baie des Anges on the other. Joggers often grace its length while others sit and admire the wondrous expanse of the ocean, soaking up the sun on the rocky shores.

The architecture along the Promenade des Anglais is whimsical and playful, full of captivating tiled domes and towers. Noteworthy is the Palais de la Méditerranée at no. 13, boasting a grand Art Deco façade. Nowadays, it serves as a chic casino where fortunes may be won or lost.

Be sure not to miss the fairytale-like Villa Huovila at no. 139 which encapsulates the Belle Epoque style. While you’re in the area, stop by the famed Hotel Negresco for coffee or a drink. If it happens to be lunchtime, take advantage of their summer deals in the delightful circus-style Brasserie, featuring a dish of the day at around 18 euros, or a combo with coffee and delicacies for about 22 euros. Alternatively, feel free to explore other culinary options or make your way to Le Festival de la Moule at 20 Cours Saleya for moules-frites.

Afternoon

To learn about the rich history of this marvelous seaside resort, head to the Musée Masséna. Located at 65 rue de France/35 promenade des Anglais, tel. 00 33 (0)4 93 91 19 10, this museum offers insight into Nice’s history from the 19th century to the 1930s. An added attraction of this visit is the museum’s location in a beautiful aristocratic villa set within historically rich gardens. Admission is free, and it is open daily, except for Tuesdays, from 10am to 6pm.

Further north, you’ll find the Musée des Beaux Arts (Fine Arts Museum, 33 ave des Baumettes, tel. 00 33 (0)4 92 15 28 28). This is the spot to explore the works of Raoul Dufy, the French Fauvist painter whose exuberant colors echo the sparkling Mediterranean that he frequently painted. The museum is free and open daily, except Mondays, from 10am to 6pm.

Even further north lies one of the region’s great sites, the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of St-Nicolas, built in 1912, which stands out with its six onion domes and gold crosses against the radiant blue sky. The widow of Alexander II gifted land and funds to construct the cathedral in memory of her son, Grand Duke Nicolas Alexandrovitch, who passed away in Nice. Located at Ave Nicolas II, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 96 88 02, it’s open daily from 9am-noon and 2-6pm, admission is free, with the nearest bus stop being Tzarewitch (bus no. 17).

Insider Tips

• If you’re feeling energetic, consider hiring a bicycle to explore the Promenade and beyond. Vélo Bleu offers 1200 self-service bikes at 120 locations around the city. With 34 kilometers of cycle paths available, rates begin at 1 euro per day. For more details, contact them at 00 33 (0)4 93 72 06 06 or visit the website.
• Consider securing tickets for a 24 or 48-hour Hop-on-Hop-off Bus tour, which is a convenient way to reach all the museums. Prices start from £17 per person.

Day 3 in Nice – Roman remains, Matisse and Marc Chagall

Escape the bustling crowds in the old town or along the ‘Prom’ and experience a slice of the upper-crust life in Nice. Cimiez, located to the north of downtown, is a quaint suburb filled with beautiful Belle Époque villas and holds significant historical value. During Roman times, Cimiez served as the capital of the province of Alpes-Maritimae.

In addition to enjoying scenic walks through leafy avenues and delightful architecture, visitors should take bus no. 15, 17, or 22 to the Arenes/Musée Matisse stop. Start your historical exploration at the Gallo-Roman site, home to an arena that held about 4000 spectators, witnessing gladiators and chariot races. You can also freely wander around the remains of the thermal baths.

Don’t miss the Musée archéologique, or Archaeological Museum, located at 160 ave des Arènes, tel 00 33 (0)4 93 81 59 57, to understand life in Nice 2,000 years ago. The museum is open daily except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm and admission is free.

To the east, the Franciscan monastery boasts beautiful gardens, providing shade on hot summer days. If you’re visiting from mid-July to mid-August, enjoy the open-air classical music concerts held in the cloisters. Don’t miss the cemetery where both Matisse and Raoul Dufy are interred. The monastery church is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and the gardens from 8am until late afternoon. Both are free to access.

Lunch

Dine at the delightful Côté Sud restaurant prior to your visit to the Musée Matisse, located at 164 ave des Arènes de Cimiez, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 81 08 08. This museum is a real home, showcasing personal belongings and some of the artist’s paintings reflecting his love for the light and colors of the Côte d’Azur. Matisse spent his winters in Nice starting in 1916, later renting an apartment in place Charles-Felix, before passing away in Cimiez in November 1954 at the age of 85.

Catch bus no. 15 or 22 back down the Boulevard Cimiez to the Musée national Marc Chagall (the stop is Musée Chagall). This uniquely designed building was commissioned by Marc Chagall himself and opened in 1972. Set amidst a garden filled with Mediterranean plants, the museum holds a permanent collection alongside regular temporary exhibitions. It is located on ave du Docteur-Ménard, tel. 00 33 (0)4 93 53 87 20, and is open daily except Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm, with adult entry priced at 8 euros.

Evening Entertainment

Vieux Nice presents the best options for evening entertainment, offering a plethora of bars, many of which feature happy hour specials from 6 to 8pm. For a chic lesbian and gay bar, visit Pulp Fiction Saloon at 7 rue Emmanuel Philibert at place du Pin, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 55 2535. Another excellent choice is The Snug, located at 22 rue Droite, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 80 43 22, which is a cozy Irish pub serving food.

For those looking to try their luck, there are two major casinos in Nice: the Casino Ruhl at 1 promenade des Anglais, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 97 03 12 22, and the Palais de la Méditerranée at 15 promenade des Anglais, tel.: 00 33 (0)4 92 14 68 21, both catering to serious players.

Short Trips from Nice

Antibes is one of France’s most charming small towns. Medieval ramparts hug the coastline as the sea pounds the rocks below. The old town is a delightful maze of narrow streets, bustling with bistros, bars, and boutiques. Its heart beats in the old cast-iron marketplace that fills up daily with a vibrant fresh fruit and vegetable market. Nearby, the Picasso Museum is housed in a small chateau that the artist called home during his time in Antibes, exhibiting some remarkable works along with ceramics he designed and crafted with local artisans in Vallauris. Additionally, the magnificent Fort Carré, designed by Vauban as a defense against sea raiders, overlooks the Mediterranean’s finest marina packed with luxurious yachts. Don’t forget the pine-filled Cap d’Antibes, leading you around to the scenic Juan-les-Pins, making Antibes a highly attractive destination.

Getting to Nice

Nice serves as the major hub on the Côte d’Azur and boasts excellent international air connections. Furthermore, it is accessible via high-speed express TGV trains from Paris and throughout France. Nice is also an ideal central location for those wanting to explore Provence and the Alpes-Maritimes.

How to get from Paris to Nice by air, train, car and Eurolines coach.

Where to Stay in Nice

Nice offers accommodations to suit every budget, from luxurious to budget-friendly options. Here are a few suggestions for budget hotels:

Hotel Les Cigales
12 rue Dalpozzo
Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 97 03 10 70
Hotel website
This renovated 3-star hotel offers air conditioning and is located very near the Promenade des Anglais. Guests can enjoy a sun terrace.

Hotel Le Floride
52 bd de Cimiez
Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 53 11 02
Hotel website
This value-oriented 2-star hotel is located in Cimiez. While it does not have air conditioning, rooms are equipped with fans.

Useful Information

Tourist Office
5 promenade des Anglais
Also located at: Train station
Both share the same telephone number: 00 33 0892 707 407
Tourist Office website
The Tourist Office can assist you with hotel bookings, so check the website or in person when you arrive in Nice. They also organize city tours.

Riviera Pass

Maximize your experience with the Riviera Pass, which provides access to special tours, guided visits to attractions in Nice and surrounding villages, as well as a sightseeing bus tour in Nice. Passes are available as a 24-hour pass for 26 euros, a 48-hour pass for 38 euros, and a 72-hour pass for 56 euros. Including transport, a 24-hour pass costs 30 euros, a 48-hour pass is 46 euros, and a 72-hour pass is 68 euros.