Summary
Of British Columbia’s gorgeous Southern Gulf Islands – an archipelago of hilly, forested gems in the Georgia Strait, off the southeast coast of Vancouver Island near Victoria, BC – Salt Spring Island is both the most populated and the most visited. For a somewhat sparsely populated, rural island with just over 10,000 year-round inhabitants, it’s also a surprisingly active and vibrant center of LGBT culture. There’s a well-attended Salt Spring Island Gay Pride celebration over a full weekend each September, and quite a few businesses in the main community of Ganges and elsewhere around the island are gay-owned.
How to Get to Salt Spring Island – Salt Spring Island Ferry Options
Often appearing on maps and in print as Saltspring Island, this picturesque retreat is easily reached by BC Ferries from both the mainland and Vancouver Island. It’s just a quick hop to the southern Salt Spring Island village of Fulford Harbour by ferry from the town of Sidney, on Vancouver Island, which is just a 20-minute drive north of the provincial capital, Victoria. From the city of Vancouver, it’s easiest to get here from the ferry terminal at Tsawwassen, which has multiple ferries each day to Sidney, where you can then catch the second shorter ferry to Salt Spring Island. Alternatively, if you’re coming from points north on Vancouver Island (or you’ve caught the ferry from North Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo), you could take the quick ferry ride from Crofton, Vancouver Island to tiny Vesuvius, on the west side of Salt Spring Island. See the latest Salt Spring Island ferry schedule and fare information at BC Ferries.
By far the fastest and most convenient way to get here is by catching a float plane, which, although more expensive, is also a lot of fun. The views of the Georgia Strait and Vancouver Island are stunning. Regularly scheduled and charter float-plane service is available to Salt Spring Island from downtown Vancouver as well as Vancouver International Airport on Saltspring Air. Airfare ranges from about $110 to $130 each way from Vancouver to Salt Spring Island, and the flight takes around 40 to 45 minutes. Seaair also has flight service from Vancouver Airport, and the U.S. carrier Kenmore Air has flights from Seattle to Salt Spring Island.
However you get here, it’s easiest to really get around and explore the island by car, so consider bringing your own. If you’re on a bit of a budget, however, or you plan to spend most of your time in the pedestrian-friendly village of Ganges, you could still very much get by without a car, relying on taxis as well as the quite efficient and affordable Salt Spring Island Transit System buses for transportation to and from the ferry terminals.
Cycling is also a very popular way to get around. There are rentals available in Ganges (Salt Spring Island Adventure Co is a good bet), and the island is lovely to see on two wheels. Just note that roads are often a bit narrow and sometimes quite hilly, so wear proper equipment and pay attention.
Hastings House Hotel and Restaurant, Ganges Harbour
Every last detail has been considered at Hastings House Country House Hotel (160 Upper Ganges Rd., 250-537-2362), one of the most relaxing and lovely boutique lodgings in western Canada. A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux group, which places an emphasis on distinctive upscale accommodations and farm-to-table-driven dining, this tranquil country house retreat has just 18 suites, ranging from classic timber-ceiling rooms in the historic manor house to airy deluxe units in the newer hillside section. All are furnished with a mix of antiques and newer pieces that feel at once rustic and chic. Throughout this property known for its friendly service, the vibe is easygoing yet refined. The intimate, finely appointed Wellspring Spa offers a range of first-class treatments, from facials to shiatsu. Rates start around $265 in the off-season and $425 during the prime summer high season, but this exceptional property completely delivers, and a full English breakfast and afternoon tea are included.
Whether or not you stay on property, do at least try to make it to Hastings House for a meal. The two restaurant options are both outstanding, with the more formal prix-fixe option ideal for a leisurely experience and the lighter Bistro option perfect if you want to sample the outstanding seasonal cuisine. The Bistro is a great value, too, with entrees ranging between $25 and $35, and a three-course prix-fixe available for just $42. Sample dishes may include crispy duck-leg confit with braised lentils and a blackberry reduction, and venison carpaccio with onion marmalade in the formal dining room. In both areas, you can choose from an extensive wine list that includes some local bottles produced right on Salt Spring Island.
Salt Spring Inn and Restaurant, Ganges Harbour
Set right in the center of the lively but still completely relaxing town of Ganges, the gay-owned Salt Spring Inn (132 Lower Ganges Rd., 250-537-9339) offers both clean accommodations and a terrific bar and restaurant serving three meals daily, along with local beers and wines. The two-story inn has accommodations on the upper level – a total of seven compact rooms, some with private baths and others sharing a spotless hall bathroom. If you’re traveling on a budget, the shared-bath rooms are a bargain, starting at just $90 in high season. During the off-season (Oct through mid-May), rates drop to as low as $65, and for a room with private bath, it’s still quite reasonable to stay here – just $165 in high season.
In the ground-floor Salt Spring Inn Restaurant, you can feast on reasonably priced, eclectic fare, ranging from local seafood to international dishes. Sunday brunch and breakfast are highly popular. Lunch and dinner favorites include panko-crusted coconut prawns, pan-seared crab cakes, salads topped with local goat cheese, and buttermilk fried chicken – hearty comfort fare made with fresh ingredients.
