My Experience as a Solo Woman Traveler in Tamil Nadu, India

Women’s safety is often a major concern for female travelers visiting India for the first time, especially those traveling solo. Horror stories are common. However, the reality is that not all of India is the same. While sexual harassment is prevalent in North India, it’s noticeably less so in the South. And, in Tamil Nadu, it’s almost absent.

Tamil Nadu often doesn’t feature on the itineraries of first-time visitors to India, who prefer to head North to see the famous attractions there. However, if you’re a solo woman traveler worried about safety and coping with the challenges in India, Tamil Nadu is recommended as the best place to start your travels.

My Decision to Travel Around Tamil Nadu

“You should spend more time traveling in South India,” a number of people told me. “It’s different there.”

I was no stranger to South India. After all, I’d lived in Kerala for eight months while managing a guesthouse in Varkala. I’d also visited quite a few places in Karnataka, Chennai a couple of times, and even drove an auto rickshaw from Chennai to Mumbai. In Chennai, I had noticed that people rarely gave me a second glance, unlike many other places in India where I was often leered at and photographed by groups of men. It was refreshing.

So, on a whim, I decided to embark on a solo trip through Tamil Nadu. My intention was to explore some of the state’s magnificent temples and experience what it would be like as a single, white female traveling alone while on a budget. I had already explored most states in India, so I had a lot to compare it to.

Planning the Trip

I designed a whirlwind itinerary covering six destinations—Madurai, Rameshwaram, Tanjore, Chidambaram, Pondicherry, and Tiruvannamalai—in just 10 days. Apart from flights there and back, I would travel to each destination via bus or train, and stay in hotels priced from 500 to 2,000 rupees per night. I meticulously researched, planned, and organized all my travel arrangements myself, ensuring I would be truly on my own without any tour company or travel agency. Not knowing a single word of Tamil, I faced the same challenges as other travelers new to India.

However, considering that Tamil Nadu is one of India’s more conservative states, I packed accordingly, bringing Indian clothes only and all with short sleeves.

With a sense of trepidation and the usual touch of paranoia, I arrived at Madurai airport, my first destination, wondering what to expect. How would people treat me, and how tough would it be to travel around alone?

My First Impressions

I eagerly threw myself into my adventure by joining a four-hour guided walking tour with Madurai Inhabitants the following morning. It provided me with a fabulous introduction to the city. The friendliness of people quickly became apparent, including other women who were outgoing and invited me to take their photos. Women could be seen in places usually dominated by men, including sitting roadside drinking chai. Additionally, I observed women working alongside men in restaurants and behind hotel front desks.

Within a couple of days, I felt myself relaxing as any tension dissolved. Even though I was alone, I felt secure, safe, and confident—a strange yet unexpected feeling. People spoke good English and were helpful, making it easy for me to navigate bus stations, which had been one of my biggest concerns. Moreover, people tended to mind their own business, presenting themselves with dignity. I felt a sense of dignity too, as I wasn’t constantly hounded by shopkeepers or had to keep my guard up against sexual harassment. In Chidambaram, I didn’t see another foreigner the whole time, yet I wasn’t overtly stared at or bothered.

While some men approached me during the trip—often wanting to pose for photos with me, unlike many other places in India—overall, I found them to be very respectful.

Why is Tamil Nadu Better for Women?

I conducted some research to understand why Tamil Nadu seemed to be more conducive for women. This can be traced back to the Sangam era of Tamil literature, from around 350 BC to 300 AD, which championed the education of women and their acceptance in public life. Although there has been a decline in the status of women since then, Tamil Nadu remains more progressive compared to many other regions in India.

Although I realize that other women travelers may have differing experiences in Tamil Nadu, several aspects of the state contributed to my enjoyment. The roads are in excellent condition, and buses are a very convenient and economical means of transport. The hotels I stayed in were clean, efficiently managed, and offered good value for money. Compared to some parts of India, Tamil Nadu is also relatively laid back and uncrowded, with magnificent temples and peaceful sprawling grounds.

I’m looking forward to returning! (The only drawback is that I’m not a fan of South Indian breakfasts, but that’s a different matter!)

Where to Go in Tamil Nadu

For convenience, most travelers fly into Chennai and start their journey there. Following that, they typically head down the coast to Mammallapuram and Pondicherry.

Be sure to explore the top tourist destinations in Tamil Nadu to enhance your travel experience.

If you are a woman planning to visit India and are unfamiliar with the culture, acquiring knowledge about women’s safety in India could be beneficial.