Get off the tourist track and delve a little deeper into Japan.
Japan is a relatively compact country with an excellent transportation system and a little of everything: mountains and oceans, sun and sand, snow and ice, and forests and cities, all within a short flight or a few hours on the Shinkansen train. Japanese holidays are also short, so most people choose to travel domestically, cramming in as much pleasure as possible in a few days. Japan’s major travel periods are around the New Year, when most people head home for the holidays or visit ski resorts or hot spring towns; Golden Week in late April to early May, when top destinations become stuffed with people determined to have a good time fast; and summer holidays in late July and August, when crowds are divided between taking advantage of the heat on the beach or retreating to the cooler highlands.
Locals already know what Tokyo Tower looks like, where to get good sushi, and the fleeting feelings that sakura surfaces in us. For those who’ve grown up with trains and temples, the destinations we’re drawn to are much more nuanced, featuring sights that are tinged with history or part of a gourmet bucket list. Therefore, with everything from glaciers to tropical beaches, there’s plenty to explore right here in Japan.
Furano and Biei
City slickers long for open roads, and Hokkaido is a dream driving holiday. In the summer, Furano and Biei are home to Hokkaido’s famous lavender and flower fields. Driving through this picturesque landscape is sheer pleasure. Stop at a roadside stand for freshly picked corn on the cob, painted with butter or soy sauce—or both—or a creamy soft serve made with fresh Hokkaido milk.
The Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest national park, abuts these towns and spans 226,000 hectares, including Hokkaido island’s highest peak, Mount Asahi. Known as Kamui Mintara, or Playground of the Gods, by the indigenous Ainu people, the park offers hiking trails among alpine flowers and sulfuric vents, with sweeping views of untouched heights.
In the winter, check out the Hokkaido Powder Belt. This area receives an average of eight meters (about 26 feet) of light, dry powder snow each season, providing plenty of backcountry options for adventurous skiers and snowboarders.
Ginzan Onsen
Japan is blessed with onsen, or hot springs, due to its nature as an island chain formed by volcanic activity, many of which remain active. Bathing in onsen is practically a national pastime, complete with a robust set of rituals for soaking and an extensive industry built around hot spring hotels and spas.
Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata Prefecture is a quaint spa town nestled in a remote mountain valley that was originally a silver mine. The town’s main street runs alongside a stream and is lined with charming wooden inns. In winter, the streets are covered with thick snow, and gas lanterns cast a warm glow. Sulfuric steam rises and hangs in the air between the footbridges that crisscross the street, creating an arresting sight.
All inns are atmospheric, and many are over 100 years old. Try Notoya Ryokan, designated a “tangible cultural property,” which offers a private open-air bath. The key highlights of a hot spring retreat include soaking, enjoying delicious meals, and perhaps wandering around town in wooden sandals and yukata (cotton robes provided by the hotel). Adventurous guests can also explore the abandoned silver mine or take in the views at the nearby Senshinkyo Gorge.
Fuji Five Lakes
While plenty of visitors ascend Mount Fuji every year during the brief summer climbing season, many are content to admire its symmetrical, snow-capped beauty from below. Fuji is a cultural icon of Japan and is revered in both Buddhist and Shinto traditions. Some of the most splendid views can be enjoyed from the Fuji Five Lakes area, consisting of a collection of lakes surrounding the mountain: Yamanakako, Kawaguchiko, Motosuko, Saiko, and Shojiko (ko means lake).
In addition to camping, cycling, swimming, and hiking, charming accommodations are plentiful, often styled in alpine architecture. Once you have built up an appetite, indulge in houtou, a regional specialty featuring thick, chewy noodles and tender vegetables simmered in rich miso broth. Regular and vegetarian versions are available at Houtou Fudou, a micro chain with three locations in Fujikawaguchiko.
Mount Oyama
While not as famous as Fuji, Mount Oyama has its own rich history. Once a vital pilgrimage site for Edokko, or people from Edo, Oyama was a multi-day walk that attracted as many as 200,000 pilgrims during a few summer weeks. The route leading to the mountain was often bustling with groups, sorted by trade or guild, carrying hiking staffs and wearing matching jackets.
Pilgrims’ inns, known as shukubo, still dot the landscape, and some lodgings host the same groups who have been visiting for centuries. These inns provide resting places before the final ascent to Oyama Afuri Shrine, a site with over 2,000 years of history. The area is also known for its tofu, and an essential part of the visit includes savoring a multicourse tofu feast at one of the inns like Tougakubou, where guests can also relax in the open-air hot spring after a rewarding day of hiking.
Iya
From Tokyo, reach Takamatsu on Shikoku island via plane, then take a bus winding inland to Tokushima Prefecture, finally arriving at Iya, a remote and mystical valley that feels worlds away from the bustling capital. Here, swing bridges made of braided vines stretch over dramatic ravines that shimmer in shades of green and blue. Local legend tells of the defeated Heike clan warriors who retreated to this area after their lengthy conflict with the Genji clan in the 12th century. These precarious bridges could reportedly be cut down quickly, stymying pursuing enemies. Sparse in buildings and even scarcer in residents, one hamlet—nicknamed Kakashi no Sato—has scarecrows that outnumber the inhabitants, which mostly comprise senior citizens. The renovated thatched-roof farmhouses at Tougenkyo-Iya Mountain Village exude rustic charm while offering modern conveniences like heated floors and new toilets, complemented by breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
Ishigaki
Closer to Taiwan than mainland Japan, Okinawa is the country’s southernmost prefecture, serving as a perpetual haven for those seeking peace amidst the mesmerizing ocean depths. This prefecture was the last to be integrated into Japan, known prior as the Ryukyu Kingdom. Indigenous Ryukyuans continue to reside here, maintaining their unique languages and cultural traditions distinct from the mainland. On Ishigaki island, visitors can combine excursions to Yaeyama Museum and Ishigaki Yaima Village, allowing them to delve into local folk traditions and history while enjoying activities like sunbathing, snorkeling among vibrant coral reefs, kayaking along picturesque rivers, and diving in Kabira Bay at the famous Manta Scramble. Umicoza Diving School offers gear rental, lessons, and certification in Japanese, English, and Chinese.
