1. Introduction
Los Angeles has one of the country’s best urban hiking trails. Here’s how to pull off a multi-day trek on the Backbone Trail.
2. The Beauty of Los Angeles
Los Angeles, despite its reputation, is often not recognized for its green spaces. While it is adored for its Mediterranean climate, nature may not be the first thought when picturing the city, and for good reason. L.A. is a coastal basin that has largely been transformed into a concrete expanse.
However, amid the cars and wildfires, L.A. is unique as the only major city in the United States bisected by a massive mountain range. This area is also a biodiversity hotspot. Just a 20-minute drive north of Dodger Stadium lies the stunning Angeles National Forest, encompassing 700,000 acres of woodlands and mountains, some soaring over 10,000 feet. In winter, you can even enjoy backcountry skiing.
Having relocated to L.A. from the East Coast, I was struck by the fragrant flowers that fill the city. Each May, jacaranda trees along the streets explode into purple blossoms. The urbanization has led to unique wildlife encounters, with coyotes roaming the streets and bears taking dips in swimming pools. Researchers at UCLA have reported that Los Angeles County is home to over 4,000 distinct animal and plant species, including many endangered species such as condors and desert bighorn sheep.
3. Exploring the Backbone Trail
I soon discovered that the city offers an excellent way to connect with wildlife: the 67-mile Backbone Trail, which stretches across the Santa Monica Mountain Range, separating Los Angeles from the San Fernando Valley. This through-hike route is essentially a multi-day backpacking adventure. Starting from the Palisades with views of downtown skyscrapers, you can complete the trek a few days later on a beach west of Malibu. In between, you are immersed in nature, away from urban distractions. Hikers must carry everything required for the journey, akin to the experiences found on trails like the Appalachian Trail and the John Muir Trail in the Sierra Nevada.
Last April, the thought of a multi-day hike felt more appealing than ever. After a year filled with virtual meetings and late-night email battles, I needed an escape. Greater Los Angeles boasts around 19 million residents, making the Backbone Trail an attractive haven for tranquility, even if for a little while.
4. Trek Begins
My westward journey commenced on Sunset Boulevard, in the parking lot of Will Rogers State Historic Park. With my backpack secured, I ventured up a sandy trail, grappling with the feeling of leaving the city behind. In the first hour, the path gradually ascended; urban views quickly gave way to picturesque low mountains bursting with spring foliage. I encountered a rabbit darting across the trail and a red-tailed hawk soaring overhead. Over approximately five hours of hiking, I encountered a few fellow walkers and several mountain bikers, but otherwise, the paths were mine alone.
The Backbone Trail officially opened in 2016 after 40 years of dedicated trail building by passionate individuals and groups, resulting in a significant route through Southern California’s vast undeveloped territories. Hiking during the pandemic posed unique challenges, including limited campsites due to COVID restrictions—most have since reopened—yet many Airbnbs were within reach, enhancing the adventure akin to European trekking experiences in the Alps.
5. Scenic Overnight Stays
On my first night, I settled at an old ranch in Topanga, a West L.A. canyon known for its bohemian spirit. Contemporary bohemians often drive luxury vehicles. I stopped at a gourmet food shop near the trailhead, savoring fresh baguettes instead of dehydrated camping meals. Walking up a tranquil, oak-lined road led me to a grassy meadow and the Carriage in Topanga (from $113), a charming covered wagon converted into a cozy hippie hotel suite, complete with a nice bed, rugs, an espresso machine, and velvet accents—a true creative escape.
Breaking from Topanga’s secluded areas the following morning, I encountered a father and daughter on their way to her elementary school. Hiking beneath lush trees and chaparral-covered canyons, I reflected on advice from Casey Schreiner, the author of Day Hiking Los Angeles, who remarked that the two significant plant communities in California are chaparral and sage scrub. He humorously noted that if you came out smelling nice, it was sage scrub; if you emerged bleeding, it was chaparral.
The optimal approach to the Backbone Trail is to segment it into a series of day hikes, starting from any of its 12 official access points. To complete the entire hike in four days, segments could reach up to 20 miles each. That evening, I reached my campsite just before sunset. The Malibu Creek Campground is a luscious green space, surrounded by hills. By the time my tent was set up, hunger overwhelmed me. I cooked spaghetti on my stove, gazing at the peaks tinged in purple and orange from the sunset—my thoughts blissfully blank after a day of walking, navigating, and cooking. I couldn’t recall the last time I’d felt so disconnected from the busyness of urban life.
6. The Final Leg
The next morning was cool and damp, and I ascended a rocky ridgeline around 2,000 feet. Fog enveloped the trail, resembling a walk through the clouds. However, the serene landscape transformed when I rounded a corner into a bustling film set filled with tents, cameras, and supplies. A security guard informed me they were shooting a new Netflix series. I spotted a catering spread nearby and, finding no objection to stealing a soda, I innocently inquired, receiving a friendly, evasive response.
That night, I stayed in another Airbnb, the 1972 Classic Airstream (from $133), a remodeled trailer situated on a hill in remote backcountry. The owner welcomed me in a saloon she maintained for guests, with the interior adorned with an old bar and horse tack, reminiscent of the Wild West. Interestingly, the saloon was relatively modern, having been set up by a film crew.
Throughout my journey, I often recalled Schreiner’s insight: the outdoors in Los Angeles are meant for everyone, yet not all have equal access. Approximately 40 percent of Angelenos reside more than a 10-minute walk from a city park.
My friend Victor joined me for the final day. In the morning, we scaled Sandstone Peak, the Santa Monica Mountains’ highest point, before we spent the day winding back down toward the beach. We observed several vultures and a rattlesnake along the way. Eventually, in the late afternoon, with aching feet, we reached the trail’s end, where the waves crashed on La Jolla Beach. It struck me as peculiar that, despite traversing 67 miles, I felt I had never truly left—only now, I distinctly smelled like sage scrub.
A version of this story first appeared in the April 2022 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline Step By Step.
