Summary
Envisioning a Sustainable Future in Sedona
With attention growing from Instagrammers, New Agers, and all sorts of city slickers, some residents of this Arizona town are taking a step back — and envisioning a more sustainable future.
The Impact of Social Media on Tourism
I’m not known for my hiking endurance, so trekking the southern face of Sedona’s Mescal Mountain was arguably an inopportune time to conduct an interview. My husband, Wyatt, and I had joined trail guide George Miraval at golden hour for the six-mile out-and-back hike, motivated by the promise of an eagle-eye view of the surrounding peaks. However, as the trail rose steadily it became difficult for me to get any words out, let alone the stream of questions I had.
Miraval recently helped open Trail House, the striking new outdoors center at Enchantment Resort (doubles from $825). Wyatt and I had driven in from Los Angeles for a long weekend, and I was curious to hear Miraval’s take on how Sedona — a once sleepy, sparsely populated place near the Grand Canyon — had changed since he arrived 33 years ago. Today, it attracts some 3 million visitors each year, bringing $1 billion in tourism revenue.
As we continued, boots kicking up red dust in front of us, Miraval told us the shift in Sedona could be summed up in five words: It’s all social media’s fault.
This conclusion is not unfounded. The previous day, I’d asked the same question of hotelier Colleen Tebrake, who is preparing to open Ambiente, a Landscape Hotel (doubles from $1,500) — a collection of cube-shaped glass suites with 360-degree Sedona views — at the end of May. What was the origin of the growing hype? She replied: “Instagram.”
Their conclusions are supported by evidence. Miraval took us to an out-of-the-way trail where we encountered just three other hikers and a rather chatty owl. However, four miles east, an hour-long line was forming at Devil’s Bridge, a rock formation where hundreds of Instagrammers gather each evening hoping to snag the perfect sunset shot. Consequently, Sedona has implemented a new sustainable tourism plan aimed at achieving “the end of tourism as we know it.” Visitors are encouraged to sign the Sedona Cares Pledge, which outlines ways to be safe and respectful to the land and community.
Culinary Evolution in Sedona
One of Miraval’s goals at Trail House is to show the many other sides of Sedona, weaving in lessons on how to best protect this enclave and its outdoors. This approach goes beyond just encouraging visitors to leave no trace on the trail; it also means learning about cultural and geological history and the flora and fauna along the route. As we absorbed the panorama of sunset-tinted red rocks, he wondered aloud, “Do you want to go somewhere this beautiful and wait in line?”
Wyatt and I had journeyed 470 miles to escape smog, traffic, and crowds, therefore, the obvious answer was no. However, lines are now inevitable in Sedona. There is one main road, Highway 89A, running through the 19-square-mile city. The views while driving it are incomparable: reds, oranges, yellows, and purples illuminate the rocks as mountain after mountain unfolds ahead. Yet even the most awe-inspiring scenery couldn’t distract me from the standstill traffic on a morning trail run, where I felt certain I could walk back to the hotel faster than Wyatt could drive there.
When Miraval moved to Sedona, the traffic was nonexistent — as were most of the hiking trails. An avid outdoorsman, he started trail-running and mountain biking in the hills above town. Ironically, some of the routes he helped carve out are now packed by hikers whose cars now crowd the roads. Residents express concern that many visitors seem less interested in understanding the place itself and more in what the place can do for them. “It’s degrading the very thing everyone wants: to feel the solitude and spirit of the land,” Miraval noted.
Another Sedona staple is chef Lisa Dahl, who arrived 27 years ago from Marin County, California. She also values the land above all else — but unlike our solitude-seeking trail guide, she doesn’t think it necessarily means keeping this former cowboy town a secret. “This place is so beautiful,” she reflected. “When I got here, I thought it could be another Aspen in the making.”
Addressing Environmental Concerns
Dahl, who loves nature, lamented the unfortunate common denominator found in outdoor destinations across the western U.S.: bad food. “You come back from the Grand Canyon and you’re starving,” she joked. Dahl helped pioneer fine dining in Sedona, opening the celebrated Italian restaurant Dahl & DiLuca (entrées $24–$44) in 1995, which quickly gained acclaim from a Phoenix New Times food critic.
Now, Dahl runs six restaurants in Sedona, with her most popular venue being the Latin-inspired Mariposa (entrées $28–$48), boasting one of the area’s most coveted views. While some restaurants might use a million-dollar panorama as an excuse to fall short in menu offerings, Dahl’s grill remains a consistent favorite, renowned for its potent margaritas, skirt steak with chimichurri, and an impressive wine list.
Dahl’s success has paved the way for a burgeoning restaurant scene, increasingly focusing on a sense of place — another way to celebrate and preserve the natural environment. Enchantment Resort has set a benchmark with its commitment to local flavors and experiences.
