Experience the Beauty of Maine Aboard Schooner Ladona

Experiencing the Beauty of Maine

Schooners have been the lifeblood of coastal Maine for more than a century, and sailing aboard one of these magnificent wooden boats is the best way to immerse yourself in the charm of these seaside communities.

The whistling chirp of the wharf’s resident osprey welcomed me as I walked down the gangway toward Ladona. The pristine, cream-colored hull of the ship reflected beautifully on the dark water, enhanced by late afternoon sun spilling golden pools onto the deck. Everything gleamed — the polished brass wheel, the long mahogany deck table, and the massive Douglas fir bowsprit.

In late September, I embarked on a five-night adventure aboard Ladona, one of nine traditionally rigged sailing vessels in the Maine Windjammer Association, the largest fleet of historic ships in North America. From home ports in Rockland and Camden, this fleet sails a scenic 100-mile stretch of coast between Boothbay Harbor and Bar Harbor, accommodating between 17 and 40 guests per ship. The region features over 2,000 rocky islands adorned with lighthouses, hidden coves, and welcoming fishing ports.

The Restoration of Ladona

My initial experience with windjamming in Maine dates back to 2015, when I enjoyed a knitting-themed cruise with my daughters. Over four days, we honed our knitting skills while raising sails, beachcombing, and watching for sea creatures. Two years later, I sailed on Victory Chimes, one of the last surviving three-masted schooners in the United States. My affection for these classic boats grew with each voyage.

What intrigued me about Ladona was its extensive rebuild aimed at enhancing the windjamming experience. This splendid vessel started its journey a century ago as the cherished family yacht of American industrialist Homer Loring. Designed by renowned naval architect William H. Hand Jr., Ladona first captured attention by winning its class in the 1923 Bermuda Cup. Throughout its history, Ladona served various purposes, from patrolling for German submarines during World War II to functioning as a fishing dragger.

In 1976, it became a passenger schooner in Maine’s windjammer fleet, sailing for nearly forty years until financial challenges forced it onto the auction block in 2014.

Life Aboard Ladona

As I settled in, I met first mate Sabrina Craig and second mate Kelsey Nevill, who led me to my cozy single berth. While Bowditch accommodated 24 passengers, the owners reduced Ladona‘s capacity to 17, ensuring that guests experience greater comfort. The elegantly appointed staterooms featured brass hardware, plush robes, and soft linens, adding a touch of vintage sophistication.

The aroma of freshly baked bread wafted through the galley, where chef Anna Miller prepared delightful meals, including delicious baguettes and colorful salads. Guests on Ladona are treated to culinary experiences reminiscent of a dinner party that lasts the entire week.

The Journey and Gatherings

As we set sail from Rockland Harbor, the scenic landscape of the Maine coastline unraveled before us, with every sail catching the compelling winds. The spirit of camaraderie swelled as we sailed amongst the picturesque surroundings.

Each evening on board included storytelling, with J. R. sharing tales of Maine’s rich maritime history, showcasing the unique characters and vibrant life that thrives in these waters. We celebrated the annual gathering of the Maine windjammer fleet at Brooklin, a meaningful event for all who cherish wooden-boat craft and heritage.

Culinary Delights at Sea

The experience aboard Ladona transcended mere sailing; it was a culinary adventure as well. Guests enjoyed succulent dishes prepared by Anna, with varied menus that celebrated local seafood. The traditional picnic featuring freshly procured lobsters was a highlight, showcasing the sweet, succulent meat accompanied by drawn butter and refreshing wines.

Lobsters have become a staple, and J. R.’s commitment to sourcing them directly from local fishermen not only sustains the coastal economy but enriches the dining experience aboard the vessel.

In Maine, sailing melts seamlessly into a lifestyle rooted in community, heritage, and the glorious ocean, creating memories to cherish for a lifetime.

The Schooner Ladona offers an exceptional opportunity to explore Maine’s coastline through an unforgettable sailing adventure.

A version of this story first appeared in the June 2022 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline Plain Sailing.