Munich: The New European Silicon Valley

With sleek new hotels, tech spaces, and high-concept museums, Munich has become the European Silicon Valley. The low skyline of Munich is dominated by the 323-foot-high, copper-topped spires of the old Frauenkirche cathedral, which by tradition are meant to remain the tallest structures in the city. Looking up from the street, however, one quickly notices construction cranes dotting the landscape; they are everywhere. Munich is a medieval city, officially founded on June 14, 1158, but the city is redefining itself rapidly, offering a vastly different experience for returning visitors.

Few cities are as burdened by visual clichés as Munich. The jovial chap in leather shorts with a feather in his hat is a lasting image, hoisting his oversized beer stein. Munich retains its Bavarian traditions, yet the modern Münchner is just as likely to be a tech-savvy coder in a hoodie, drawn to the vibrant start-up scene.

Twenty years ago, the concept of “laptops and lederhosen” was merely a vague promise. Today, it has evolved into a thriving brand. The annual Bits and Pretzels start-up conference started in 2013 with a breakfast for 80 attendees. By 2017, attendance surged to 5,000, and in 2019, President Obama made an appearance. With significant investments like Apple’s $1.2 billion into a new engineering hub in Munich, it is evident the future is taking root in Munich’s beer-soaked soil.

The Gasteig HP8 Cultural Complex

As a music lover, my first encounter with Munich’s rapid urban renewal had to be the new Gasteig auditorium and cultural complex, which opened just a week before my visit last October. Initially built as a temporary home for the Munich Philharmonic Orchestra, whose historic red-brick headquarters are set for extensive renovation, Gasteig HP8 has ingeniously transformed an old power station’s transformer room into its entrance hall and library.

This newly repurposed space allows any passerby to grab a book or music score from the shelves, creating an inviting atmosphere. Although it’s located on an outer ring road, which may pose accessibility challenges, much of the new Munich landscape is expanding outward. The designers chose to leave the old concrete floors and air ducts exposed, resulting in an industrial aesthetic that can be done well or poorly; here, it succeeds beautifully.

The Gasteig embraces a spirit of high culture as an ordinary neighbor, sharing premises with a Pilates studio, a tire-changing garage (Reifenhandel), and several commercial tenants. Interestingly, these businesses were reassured that cultural pursuits wouldn’t push them out; instead, they are coexisting harmoniously. During my visit, the sound hall itself was a standout feature, built entirely from scratch with wood and steel. Renowned acoustician Yasuhisa Toyota, responsible for the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, contributed to the design, ensuring remarkable sound quality.

While the journey back to the town center seemed long, I was pleased to stroll along the scenic banks of the Isar River, which flows from the Alps through the heart of Munich. The restoration of the Isar was a massive endeavor that took 11 years, transforming concrete banks into idyllic woodlands at the city’s core, ultimately enhancing the city landscape.

Eisbach Surfing: An Unlikely Sport

The river generates Munich’s most unexpected pastime: surfing. In the 1970s, concrete blocks were installed under a bridge over the Eisbach, creating a powerful standing wave. Surfers began flocking to this unlikely spot, and although Eisbach surfing remained technically illegal until 2010, it has since become a must-see attraction, drawing spectators to watch surfers navigate the exhilarating conditions.

The Historic Bayerischer Hof Hotel

If Munich’s pleasure-loving citizenry were embodied in a hotel, it would undoubtedly be the grand Bayerischer Hof. Established in 1839 following a suggestion from King Ludwig I, this institution has offered world-class hospitality for generations. Today, the Volkhardt family continues to manage it, maintaining a legacy of excellent service that has accommodated illustrious guests like Sigmund Freud and Michael Jackson.

The hotel expanded over the years into a sprawling complex featuring 337 rooms, 74 suites, and five restaurants. Its modern upgrades, including designs by Axel Vervoordt, introduce a contemporary flair while preserving the hotel’s rich heritage.

Exploring Deutsches Museum

The Deutsches Museum, located on an island in the Isar, is the world’s largest science and technology museum, housing 270,000 square feet of exhibits encompassing everything from biplanes to microchips. Notably, it was the first museum to host a quantum processor, courtesy of Google’s Munich operation. As the museum underwent significant renovations, a refreshed experience awaited visitors with engaging displays and innovative exhibits.

Werksviertel-Mitte: A New Urban Frontier

A short journey from the city center leads to Werksviertel-Mitte, a reimagined area utilizing land once owned by the Eckart family, who built their fortune by producing Pfanni-brand potato flakes after World War II. No longer focused solely on potatoes, the project has transformed into a vibrant urban area featuring start-up incubators, eclectic food stalls, affordable housing, and spaces for artistic expression.

As this area continues to evolve, the newly opened Adina hotel, occupying a portion of the 24-story structure that was formerly a potato flour silo, provides comfortable accommodations with stunning views of the city. The innovative design reflects the future of urban living, blending modernity with the rich historical context of Munich.

Bavarian Motor Works, or BMW, proudly asserts its presence in Munich. The BMW logo atop the roof is a notable landmark visible even from space. The BMW Museum, renowned for its futuristic design and engaging exhibits, is paired with BMW Welt, a customer experience center that includes a restaurant boasting two Michelin stars. Whether you’re an auto enthusiast or just curious, these attractions offer an engaging overview of the brand and its innovations.

Where to Stay

Adina Apartment Hotel Munich: Located in a 24-story skyscraper in Werksviertel-Mitte, this property features apartment-style studios, ideal for extended stays.

Ameron München Motorworld: Offers traditional rooms and special studios equipped with glass booths for guests to park their vehicles in view.

Hotel Bayerischer Hof: This historic hotel in the city center blends modern amenities with classic elegance, hosting a range of high-profile guests over the years.

Where to Eat

Spezlwirtschaft Haidhausen: Enjoy nouveau Bavarian cuisine in Munich’s French Quarter, featuring innovative dishes that elevate traditional Bavarian fare.

What to Do

BMW Welt: A futuristic automobile showroom housing the BMW Museum and a Michelin-starred restaurant, offering a blend of culture and culinary excellence.

Deutsches Museum: The world’s largest technology museum, featuring hands-on exhibits across various scientific fields.

Gasteig HP8: A premier cultural center, renowned for its acoustics, hosting a variety of performances including chamber music and philharmonic concerts.

Munich Motorworld: Showcasing some of the most coveted automobile brands in a unique setting designed for automobile enthusiasts.

Werksviertel-Mitte: A vibrant urban area transforming former industrial spaces into a lively neighborhood filled with shops, apartments, and eateries.

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2022 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline “Future Perfect”.