Summary
A Family Adventure in Morocco
On a whirlwind family adventure through Morocco, one writer watches as her children’s horizons broaden.
I’d always wanted to go to Morocco, but in my mind, it was stubbornly associated with labels like honeymoon or bucket list. It didn’t seem like the kind of place for a family spring break filled with sun and relaxation. However, earlier this year, I discovered that tickets from our home city of New York to Casablanca were cheaper than flights to San Francisco, just under six hours, with a time difference of only five hours.
Our children, ages nine and five, had transformed into enthusiastic travelers who eagerly dashed through airport terminals, excited by the prospect of unlimited in-flight entertainment. As parents, my husband and I are savoring a fleeting moment between diapers and adolescence, surrounded by kids who are increasingly independent yet still enjoy our company.
Planning a Family Trip to Morocco
Consequently, we decided on a family trip to Morocco. Working closely with Michael Diamond of Cobblestone Private Travel, we developed a carefully curated itinerary. This nine-day journey encompassed city, desert, mountain, and sea while fitting perfectly within our school’s spring break schedule. Our plan featured activities tailored to our children’s interests and attention spans, with afternoons reserved for swimming and relaxation. Remarkably, no car journey exceeded three hours and all included stimulating stopovers.
Experience in Casablanca
In anticipation of our departure, I immersed myself in planning. Intending to explore the cities and attractions we would visit, I devised a comprehensive packing list. Content from Instagram, Tripadvisor, and countless travel blogs provided a vivid mental picture of our destination even before leaving home.
Our young children focus on the present, which facilitated our excitement. On the eve of our trip, I attentively packed suitcases, preparing for any eventuality. My five-year-old gazed at me with curiosity, asking gently, “Are we going?” With a firm reply of “Tomorrow,” pure excitement lit her face as she exclaimed, “Tomorrow!”
Upon landing in Casablanca, my excitement mirrored that of my children, enhanced despite an overnight flight. Shortly thereafter, we were zipping through a tranquil landscape en route to Marrakesh, our first itinerary stop. My nine-year-old gazed out the window, drowsily absorbing the surroundings. His recent school curriculum on Islamic culture and history had armed him with an impressive understanding of mosques and caliphates.
However, it was clear he struggled to reconcile his imagination with reality. His sister was lightly snoring beside him as he whispered, “I can’t tell if I’m dreaming or not,” rubbing his eyes again in disbelief.
Exploring Marrakesh
Entering Marrakesh, our guide, Badr el Khatari, expertly pointed out palm groves, dusty red buildings, and the walls encasing the medina. Tall and jovial, Badr’s extensive knowledge of his country combined with his enthusiasm captured our family’s attention. He understood the differing interests and energy levels of our group, making our journey seamless and enjoyable.
Adventures in the Desert
The towering Koutoubia Mosque came into view. My son eagerly announced, “It’s definitely the tallest building in the city!” Its impressive 250-foot minaret, built in the 12th century, serves as a local compass, guiding residents and tourists alike. After a short break at our lavish hotel, La Mamounia, we followed Badr into the bustling Djemaa el-Fna, the city’s renowned main square.
Badr masterfully introduced us to the square and the adjacent souk, detailing architectural nuances while helping our five-year-old count the local cats. He explained why cats “owned” the medina and took a moment to assist a vendor with a heavy cart, demonstrating his deep connection to the community.
While many visitors describe the medina as chaotic and overwhelming, our experience was one of community and connection. “Many stalls have been passed down through generations,” Badr explained, highlighting the strong bond tying the people to their crafts: “The hammam, the madrassa, the mosque, the communal bakery, the fountain—they provide everything you need. You eat, you bathe, you learn, you worship.” His insights illuminated the fabric of daily life in the medina.
Visit to Essaouira
Amidst the medina’s vibrant energy, we noticed the oscillation between noise and tranquility. This dichotomy became evident during our visit to Dar el Bacha, the former residence of Thami El Glaoui, the early 20th-century pasha of Marrakesh. The palace, which features breathtaking zellige tilework, carved cedar doors, and intricately decorated columns, stands in stark contrast to the hustle outside.
As we explored further, our children’s interest waned. However, they found great delight in a motorcycle sidecar tour. Following an energizing lunch, our guides, Hussein Belaid and Marc Emery, picked us up near one of the gates to the medina. With helmets secured, we raced through the vibrant streets. Hussein pointed out a local school as we traveled, explaining the significance of its three-language sign, reflecting the area’s historical importance.
Our expedition continued into the extensive Palm Grove, known as the Palmeraie. Our guides informed us about the historic khettara, an 11th-century irrigation system, now diminished due to rapid urbanization, demonstrating the region’s ongoing evolution.
Conclusion
Tourism has significantly impacted the local environment, raising concerns about overdevelopment. To address this, we ventured to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a sustainable hotel in the High Atlas Mountains. The property emphasizes locally sourced food and traditional Amazigh building techniques, providing guests with captivating views of snow-capped mountains and lush valleys.
The following morning, we set out for a hike led by a local guide. Children riding their donkeys reveled in the company of a six-week-old foal. As we meandered through orchards, Hassan, our guide, provided insights about the area’s irrigation practices dating back to Roman times. We passed through gardens filled with sage, mint, and fava bean plants.
Later, after a soothing night at Kasbah Bab Ourika, we made our way to Essaouira, a coastal gem characterized by its 18th-century ramparts. The town, famed among artists and writers, captivated our family with its striking architecture. My history-loving son eagerly explored the fortified city renowned as a historical trade hub.
On our rooftop terrace overlooking the sea, we savored fresh fish for lunch, followed by exploration through art galleries and the Jewish Quarter. With one final day in Marrakesh, we engaged in a family drum-making lesson, where our children learned about traditional instruments.
As we returned to the airport, I reflected on our trip while reviewing photos on my phone. My children had captured various landscapes with shy selfies, expressing their presence within the stunning scenery. My son commented, “Places like this make you realize how big the world is,” encapsulating the growth and understanding we all imbibed during our journey.
Family-Friendly Morocco
Marrakesh
La Mamounia: A storied hotel with magnificent grounds, renowned for its Pierre Hermé Tea Room.
Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech: This luxurious property accommodates families with kids’ camp and private pool villas.
Azalai Urban Souk: A hidden culinary gem that combines global dishes with shopping for ceramics and household goods.
El Fenn: A stylish rooftop restaurant known for cocktails; try the Moroccan-style fish-and-chips.
Le Marocain: Offers traditional Moroccan cuisine with a formal dress code.
Les Trois Saveurs: This atmospheric dining room features a menu that fuses French, Moroccan, and Asian dishes.
Ourika
Kasbah Bab Ourika: A stunning resort situated in the High Atlas Mountains, only 45 minutes from Marrakesh.
Essaouira
Heure Bleue Palais: A traditional riad near the beach that embodies the city’s relaxed elegance.
La Table Madada: Offering sophisticated cuisine, such as sea bass in salt crust, accommodating families with child-friendly menus.
Taros: Fresh dishes with breathtaking sea views.
