Summary
Sample the best Jewish food in Montreal on a tour of the city’s delis, bagel shops, and luncheonettes.
Two years in, I found myself living in Canada, following my Houston-born wife from Brooklyn to Toronto for her job in 2019. Consequently, I have no connections in this area, but my kids and I share Canadian roots through Rachel’s family history. However, my love for New York bagels and deli meats has remained untarnished by Canadian alternatives.
My Toronto neighbors advised me that if I wanted to truly appreciate Canadian Jewish cuisine, visiting Montreal was essential. Therefore, in September, I rented a car and prepared for a weekend filled with delicious culinary exploration.
This gastronomic pilgrimage needed a special guide, and who better than my Montreal-born father-in-law, Louis? He could share family traditions while enjoying karnatzel at his favorite Snowdon Deli and indulge in the classic breakfast of hungover McGill students known as the “mish-mash” at Beautys Luncheonette. I called Louis in Texas and invited him to join me in Montreal.
Our adventure began early in the historic Mile End Jewish neighborhood, centered around St.-Laurent Boulevard, a thoroughfare for immigrants a century ago. This neighborhood is where Louis’s grandparents opened their fruit stand, leading to rich family history intertwined with Montreal’s Jewish community.
One can’t help but admire the unique architecture in this wintry city, especially the outdoor staircases attached to residences. Louis shared stories about his father’s childhood in this picturesque neighborhood, highlighting a time when falling down those icy stairs was a rite of passage.
Next, we visited the iconic St.-Viateur Bagel, famous for its honey-boiled, wood-fired, sesame bagels. The first bite was nothing short of life-changing, igniting my love for Montreal’s culinary culture.
Mélissa Simard, our tour guide from ‘Round Table Tours, met us outside the bagel shop. Her enthusiasm for Montreal’s Jewish culinary scene was infectious. Although Louis had lived in the U.S. for years and was out of touch with local happenings, he was excited to rediscover his roots.
Inside St.-Viateur, the staff worked tirelessly in the wood-fired oven, producing a stunning amount of bagels each day. No need to worry about lengthy wait times; the system was efficient and streamlined. I relished the experience of tasting my first hot bagel right out of the oven, feeling as if I had found pure happiness.
Our next destination was Lester’s Deli, nestled in a quaint area with a mix of morning dog walkers and Hasidim heading to the synagogue. With the success of my bagel adventure, I was eager to try the deli’s offerings. After brief hesitation, I reassured myself that Louis and I could make our own gefilte fish if necessary.
My apprehension disappeared as soon as I met the owner, Bill Berenholc, whose delightful humor immediately warmed the atmosphere. The deli’s retro vibe added to the charm, especially with nostalgic memorabilia adorning the walls. I could barely wait for our deli feast to begin.
Our tasting plates arrived with half sandwiches, chopped liver, and lightly cured lox—a perfect beginning as we had more culinary experiences ahead. By the end of this deli pilgrimage, I felt completely satisfied, reminiscing about the memories made.
The highlight of my afternoon was indulging in a Montreal smoked-meat sandwich. This delicacy proved superior to its New York counterpart, featuring moist meat and tender rye bread. Bill explained the curing process they perfected, providing insight into the history of this beloved sandwich.
After indulging in such delightful fare, Mélissa guided us through the rich literary history of Jewish Montreal. We passed through the residential streets associated with famous authors and poets, showcasing the remarkable Jewish influence on the city.
Wilensky’s Light Lunch, featured in the film version of Richler’s The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz, is filled with nostalgia and tradition. Sharon Wilensky shared the restaurant’s history with me, recounting how it remains true to its roots while serving classic Jewish fare such as their signature sandwich with grilled salami and bologna.
After bidding farewell to Mélissa, Louis and I continued exploring the vibrant city, concluding our culinary journey at Beautys Luncheonette. Opened in 1942, this diner exuded warmth, familial ties, and delicious comfort food.
As I savored their delightful cheese blintzes and the “mish-mash” omelet filled with an assortment of ingredients, I appreciated Beautys’ commitment to tradition while also welcoming new dining experiences. One such place revolutionizing Jewish deli customs is Arthurs Nosh Bar, known for its modern twist on traditional dishes. Their latke smorgasbord and fluffy syrniki are definite must-tries.
On Sunday, Louis and I checked out of the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel, adding that we couldn’t stay there forever, despite its tempting amenities. Our day was dedicated to family history, visiting significant sites, including the family cemetery, Louis’s schools, and, finally, Snowdon Deli—his lifelong favorite spot.
The journey across Mount Royal showcased stunning vistas of the city below. At the summit, Louis pointed out the St. Lawrence River encircling Montreal, illustrating the geographic significance of this historic city.
On the west side of the mountain, Gibeau Orange Julep—a local gem—beckoned. This unique establishment serves delicious drinks and fast food, a nostalgic stop for my wife’s cravings. Louis and I shared a laugh while savoring the orange drink, feeling like kids again.
Arriving at Snowdon Deli further solidified the nostalgic experience. Although unassuming from the outside, inside was a haven of communal warmth filled with familiar faces and kind service. Our orders included kasha, bow ties, and their famous smoked-meat sandwich, fully living up to its legends.
Without favoritism or bias, I can confidently say the smoked-meat sandwich exceeded all expectations. Even after such an incredible food journey, I assure you Snowdon Deli’s sandwich is worth crossing the city to experience.
The next chapter of our culinary exploration continued at Beba, a chic restaurant owned by Argentine-Jewish brothers that opened just before the pandemic. Their unique menu blends Ashkenazi and Spanish influences, a true representation of their heritage.
Ari’s carefully crafted dishes, including an extraordinary take on drunken chicken, layered flavors uniquely while reflecting their parents’ recipes. Paired with impeccable wine selections, our meal at Beba encapsulated everything our trip represented: tradition, innovation, and the incredible culinary scene thriving in Montreal.
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Where to Stay
Four Seasons Hotel: This 169-room property near downtown offers true elegance. Doubles from $380.
Le Germain Hotel: A modern hotel steps from McGill University. Doubles from $244.
Where to Eat
Arthurs Nosh Bar: A super-stylish space. Don’t miss the syrniki! Entrées $9–$15.
Beautys Luncheonette: A cheerful atmosphere and homey food. Entrées $4–$16.
Beba: An elegant Argentine bistro. Entrées $33–$64.
Gibeau Orange Julep: A giant orange that serves hamburgers, hot dogs, and its signature drink.
Lester’s Deli: Spectacular smoked meat. Entrées $4–$18.
Schwartz’s: The most famous smoked-meat deli. Entrées $6–$19.
Snowdon Deli: A family-friendly spot off the tourist track. Entrées $6–$18.
St.-Viateur Bagel: The classic Montreal bagel.
Wilensky’s Light Lunch: The star is “the special”: salami, bologna, and mustard on a roll. Sandwiches $4–$6.
What to Do
‘Round Table Tours: Eating and drinking adventures, including Mélissa Simard’s 4-hour Iconic Jewish Montreal tour. From $95.50.
