Summary
Overview of Edinburgh
Though the romance of Edinburgh has long been rooted in the past, the Scottish capital is now a destination for the modern age. From the air, it looks horizontally expansive and vertically modest, blending greenly with the surrounding countryside thanks to its profusion of parks and gardens. Edinburgh is notably devoid of skyscrapers, with the tallest building, St. Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral, reaching just 295 feet.
Panoramic Vistas and Experience
Over the next five days, my husband, Caleb, and I repeatedly found ourselves surveying the Scottish capital from on high. We saw its broad sweep from the top of Arthur’s Seat, the massive volcanic hill that dominates Holyrood Park. We descended the steep hillside staircase that links the medieval Old Town with the Georgian New Town. At the Lookout, a glass-box restaurant atop Calton Hill, I enjoyed a plate of late-spring asparagus while taking in stunning views of the Firth of Forth, the estuary on which the city sits.
None of these sights is quite as plush as the rooftop lounge of the Gleneagles Townhouse, a members’ club and hotel. One evening, I enjoyed a frothy mocktail while taking stock of the skyline from behind the robe-clad allegorical statues that crown the hotel façade. The environment was relaxed, perfect for intimate conversations.
Culinary Scene
Edinburgh is a great dining city, dispelling stereotypes about Scottish cuisine. Over five days, we encountered numerous creative dishes showcasing local produce and seafood. On our first afternoon, we had a late lunch at Eleanore, a delightful eatery in Leith known for its innovative dishes, which quickly won the city’s 2022 Restaurant of the Year Award. Dining there was a refreshing experience with dishes like cured mackerel and crab bisque.
Local Attractions
While parts of Edinburgh are touristy, stepping away from the busy Royal Mile and Princes Street leads you to enchanting spots like Holyrood Park, where you can encounter breathtaking cliff views and ruins. The tranquil environment offers an inviting contrast to the bustling city. A walk along the Water of Leith, starting west of the city, allows for a peaceful escape into nature.
Where to Stay
The Balmoral: Celebrating its 120th anniversary, this luxurious hotel stands as a calm oasis amid the city’s bustle.
Gleneagles Townhouse: A private club and plush hotel that blends urban style with a traditional feel, making it a noteworthy place to stay.
Where to Eat
Borough: A relaxed restaurant known for its high-quality, locally sourced food.
Eleanore: Offers shareable dishes packed with flavor, embodying the city’s culinary innovation.
Fhior: A multi-course dining experience that creatively showcases Scottish seafood.
The Lookout: Enjoy exceptional views alongside delicious food at this rooftop venue.
Scran & Scallie: A charming gastropub serving modern twists on traditional dishes.
What to Do
Cycle Scotland: Rent sturdy bikes to explore Edinburgh’s enchanting streets and paths.
Holyrood Park: Climb Arthur’s Seat for panoramic views over the city.
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art: Home to a superb collection of 20th-century art, set in beautifully landscaped grounds.
Water of Leith: Stroll the scenic walkway through picturesque neighborhoods, including Dean Village and Stockbridge.
