Discover Why Joshua Tree is a Must-Visit Artists’ Haven in California

The area around California’s Joshua Tree National Park has long exerted a gravitational pull on artists, seekers, and freewheelers. However, this secret desert hideout isn’t so secret anymore.

Time, in the high desert, moves more slowly. It certainly feels that way in Joshua Tree. My wife, Rachel, and I drive out to the region at least once a year to sink into that change of speed. As a writer, I find the area both intimidating and beguiling—a heady, inspiring combination.

Others have felt the headiness too. Across generations, Joshua Tree has drawn waves of film people, music enthusiasts, and fine artists. Notable figures such as Ann Magnuson, Jim Morrison, and Ed Ruscha have left their mark. It’s not for everyone, but it is for some—those who choose to stay and build and nurture in a setting that can feel isolating with all that empty space, all those cactus shadows stretching across the sand.

Lately, though, the desert is becoming less empty. In 2021, Joshua Tree National Park welcomed more than 3 million visitors, marking a 50 percent increase from 2015. In the nearby town of Yucca Valley, tax revenues from hotels and vacation rentals soared sixfold in five years. Residents described the influx as a mix of real estate developers, big-city exiles, and those purchasing second homes. House prices have skyrocketed, and the community is increasingly concerned about overtourism.

This curious transformation raises questions about what it means for the artists who helped shape the area’s artistic appeal—what did the desert offer them initially, and what has changed now?

Joshua Tree refers both to the national park, an expanse comparable to Rhode Island where the Mojave and Colorado deserts merge, and to the actual town—a string of small communities draped across the park’s northern rim. Located about a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, the region stretches along Highway 62 for approximately 30 miles. You know you’re getting close when the pavement starts to shimmer from the heat and wind turbines dot the view like enormous white palms.

During our most recent trip in late June, where daytime highs were projected to exceed 100 degrees, our first thought upon entering town was to find a drink. A friend recommended the Tiny Pony Tavern, a trendy spot in Yucca Valley popular with the artist community as well as other locals. That afternoon, patrons included a young family, several construction workers, and a woman clad in rock-climbing gear (the park is a renowned climbing destination). Cocktails were impressive and the duck-confit nachos were delightful. It felt like we were collectively hiding from the sun in the dim atmosphere.

An hour later, we arrived at AutoCamp, located just a short drive from the park’s west entrance. Gleaming silver Airstreams filled the landscape. The company also offers Airstream glamping in other locations, such as Yosemite and Cape Cod; here at Joshua Tree, which opened just a few months before our arrival, guests can explore the nearby wilderness or relax by the pool with a cocktail while local musicians perform. “After the past couple of years, people want to get out in the open,” Chris Rodriguez, one of the managers, mentioned. “They want to have space.”

As darkness fell quickly, our private firepit, surrounded by Adirondack chairs, beckoned. I ordered a barbecue kit from reception: New York strip, potato salad, and mac and cheese. We grilled steaks over an open flame while enjoying a bottle of wine. The atmosphere felt like “camping-lite,” perfect for friends on a weekend escape from L.A., yet not entirely appealing to me. Then the real spectacle began: thousands of stars illuminated the sky. Joshua Tree is well-known for stargazing; the stunning celestial canopy compelled me to gaze upwards for longer.

“I’ve got an idea,” Rachel suggested. She grabbed a pair of bathrobes and laid them out on the ground, creating a makeshift blanket for us to lie on while we admired the stars. When we finally got up an hour later, we felt as though only minutes had passed.

The desert often attracts seekers and nomadic types, individuals wishing to get temporarily lost in its expansive immensity—or, alternatively, to find themselves. The next morning, a quick 20-minute drive from AutoCamp took us to Landers, where we discovered one of the area’s major draws: the Integratron, a classic seekers’ shrine.

Constructed in the 1950s by self-styled “UFOlogist” George Van Tassel, the design was said to have been relayed to him by extraterrestrial beings, along with instructions for amplifying Earth’s magnetic field. What we discovered was an extraordinary acoustical experience—an hour-long sound bath inside the building’s massive wooden dome. “If it feels like you just crawled inside a wooden instrument,” our meditation guide remarked, “it’s because you did.”

For nearly an hour, the guide played over a dozen singing bowls while a group of us, seemingly all out-of-towners, lay on mats and absorbed the sound. At times incredibly loud, it oscillated in my head; at others, so quiet I could hear someone snoring. “I can’t remember the last time my body felt this relaxed,” Rachel mentioned.

Afterward, we visited the Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Art Museum of Assemblage Sculpture. Purifoy, a Black sculptor from Los Angeles, died in Joshua Tree in 2004, having moved his art practice there in the 1980s. For the last 15 years of his life, he committed to constructing a 10-acre sculpture park. Walking through an array of pieces showcasing Purifoy’s distinctive style felt like wandering through an abandoned community—deeply loved when it was created.

Next, we enjoyed lunch at the Joshua Tree Saloon, a weathered haunt known for its burgers and beer. It’s the kind of place where the sounds of the Grateful Dead playing inside felt entirely fitting. Simultaneously, the establishment was bustling—hardly a relic of the past. Traces of the area’s older guard blended with new energy around us.

In the 1970s, country singer Gram Parsons rolled into Joshua Tree in an Aston Martin, ready to drink margaritas and catch the sunset. Folk musician Donovan later raised his family there. Alma Allen crafted sculptures inside a Quonset hut, operating a large robot initially used for building cars before moving to Mexico. Other artists currently working in Joshua Tree include assemblage artist Bobby Furst and architect Linda Taalman.

Sculptor Dan John Anderson, originally from eastern Washington, made the move to the high desert in 2012. He invited Rachel and me to his Yucca Valley studio, filled with various saws and hand tools. Known for his large wooden sculptures—some resembling modern chess pieces while others are abstract stools—Anderson finds beauty and a sense of limitless inspiration in the harsh desert landscape. “The nature here is not a Disney show,” he explained. “There’s a psychological space, a general freedom, that gives me the room to explore.”

I was introduced to Anderson through his friend, painter Lily Stockman. Stockman purchased a homestead cabin in Joshua Tree in 2013 and has lived there part-time ever since. Both she and Anderson recognize the precariousness of the place as it evolves into a more mainstream tourist destination. “To spend time in these mountains is to experience visible, condensed geological time,” she shared with me via email. “I keep revisiting a line from California poet Kay Ryan: a larger amount is no longer a larger amount.

In previous visits, I felt the same as I absorbed the vastness of the landscape and the weight of its age. Such grand surroundings expand one’s sense of scale.

Anderson suggested we continue our conversation over tacos at Red Dog Saloon, a honky-tonk that reopened in 2020 in nearby Pioneertown. The town resembles something out of an old western because it began as a movie set for Hollywood actors in 1946, who constructed a Wild West village to use as a backdrop for filmmaking.

Pioneertown has evolved since then. Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace—a lively club-slash-barbecue venue—today books major acts like Belle & Sebastian. Just before my visit, Pioneertown had hosted an international film festival. The tacos at Red Dog rival the best in southern California: shredded beef brisket, cider-braised pork carnitas, and mushroom asada with tomatillo salsa.

Anderson voiced concerns regarding the region, particularly that young artists struggle to find adequate and affordable living and working spaces. The desert’s inspiration still feels boundless—Anderson enjoys exploring the mountains on his dirt bike—but only if individuals can sustain themselves.

I asked Mike French, co-owner of the Pioneertown Motel, to share his thoughts on Joshua Tree’s ongoing allure. “At the end of the day it’s a feeling,” he said. “In the desert, you’re in it. You’re so in it. There’s something grounding about that.”

However, the success of the French brothers and others comes with complications. While they’ve hired local artisans for renovations—making cultural landmarks newly fashionable— these developments sometimes create jobs permanently, but what good is a waitressing role to a Cal Arts grad if she struggles to store her canvases?

On Anderson’s recommendation, I reached out to Kyle Simon, another high desert artist. Simon, a Master Printer, formerly of Pace Prints, agreed to show us where he and his wife, Sarah, were homesteading in the mountains, as the drive required a vehicle more suitable for off-roading than ours.

Before his relocation to Joshua Tree, Simon collaborated with some of the world’s leading artists to create limited-edition prints. “I was ready for a big change,” he explained. This shift involved creating perhaps the world’s first off-the-grid print studio, Farrington Press, located in the Mojave Desert. Now artists come to him.

Simon asked Rachel and me to maintain the location of his site discreet. The lengthy drive, however, passed quickly, thanks to the stunning landscape: small streambeds, towering bluffs, and expansive groves of Joshua trees adorned our path. Simon’s home, overlooking a broad valley, was set on several acres. “This landscape is so lunar,” he said. “It’s like nothing I’ve ever truly experienced.”

The studio exceeded our expectations in sophistication, showcasing an array of tools and presses alongside extensive archives of past collaborations. Simon unveiled prints made by artist Ryan Schneider using chainsaw-cut woodblocks and described a unique box he constructed for aquatinting with Lily Stockman, famously practiced by Francisco Goya—all framed by expansive scrub, boulders, and endless sky right outside the door.

What seemed to unite Simon, Anderson, Stockman, and others was a sense of grit and rugged independence, accompanied by the joy of connecting with people who approach art and life similarly.

Andrea Zittel stands at the forefront of the latest wave of contemporary art in Joshua Tree. She relocated her studio from New York City to the desert in 2000 and has since gained recognition for her eclectic body of work, which includes paintings, experimental shelters, and furniture. For our final night, Rachel and I decided to rent a guest cabin at A-Z West, a unique combination of artist community and artistic creation nestled on over 80 acres of desert adjacent to the national park.

Zittel’s influence in Joshua Tree is significant, with many noting her contributions both aesthetically and socially. “Andrea’s impact here is incredible,” Anderson remarked. “It reverberates even among the Airbnb guests, often without them realizing it.”

Our overnight accommodations—a former homestead cabin—featured stunning views, prototypes of Zittel’s furniture, a variety of books, and paintings, topped off with an outdoor minimalist shower that was refreshing after a hot day.

It struck me that the desert serves as a repository of geological moments alongside human experiences.

Nearly everyone we met in Joshua Tree suggested visiting the Palms Restaurant in Wonder Valley for cocktails, leading us to spend our evening there. An enormous sculpture by Paloma Varga Weisz stood across the street, part of a temporary exhibition organized by High Desert Test Sites (HDTS), while another by Jack Pierson was located around the corner. Despite the artistic context, the Palms restaurant retained its dive-bar charm, resembling an end-of-the-world hideaway. Desert residents, both young and old, gathered—some scruffy and long-haired, others more polished with cowboy hats. We witnessed a man order “a couple of martinis” along with a glass of milk (his oversized martinis were served in margarita glasses) and another opted for a Diet Pepsi with a Ding Dong—both were readily available.

As the sky darkened, we made one last stop, encouraged by A-Z West staff to explore a potential concert location in the hinterlands that evening.

We drove north for several miles on a sand-laden path, devoid of lights or structures, only rough terrain and a bright moon lighting our travel. Doubts arose about flat tires, but Rachel reassured me, “What’s the worst that could happen? We hike back.”

Suddenly, we saw cars and lights ahead; an old firehouse had been repurposed for a concert, part of an ongoing series of events organized by HDTS, often publicized through word of mouth or social media. That night, we enjoyed performances by local acts, Earl Vallie and Earth Girl Helen Brown, who were preparing for an upcoming tour. We unexpectedly ran into Anderson among other familiar faces, their forms emerging from the darkness to revel in the night.

The Joshua Tree boom has undoubtedly enriched many residents and visitors. Nonetheless, the side effects—gentrification, aesthetic homogeneity—pose challenges, leaving the area’s distinctive quality feeling somewhat endangered. However, the immense open spaces encourage close community bonds, allowing individuals to perceive their surroundings more acutely—an essential part of the artist’s role, now and forever.

High Desert Road Map

Where to Stay

A-Z West: Andrea Zittel’s 80-plus acre “testing ground” includes a two-bedroom house and a one-bedroom guest cabin, both available for overnight stays, and hosts regular public tours.

AutoCamp Joshua Tree: This stylish trailer resort features 47 Airstreams equipped with kitchenettes and walk-in showers, along with several modern bungalows. The property also boasts a general store (offering cooking kits and pre-made meals) and a swimming pool.

The Bungalows by Homestead Modern: Fourteen renovated Midcentury Modern suites at the historic Joshua Tree Retreat Center, which includes multiple buildings designed by Lloyd Wright, the son of Frank Lloyd Wright.

Pioneertown Motel: This establishment originally served as a lodging option for actors and crew members filming in Pioneertown—built as a movie set for Old West films. Sibling proprietors Matt and Mike French completed a full renovation of the 19-room inn in 2016.

Where to Eat and Drink

Copper Room: Once a lounge for the Yucca Valley Airport frequented by rock stars and Rat Pack personalities, this restaurant re-opened in summer 2022. Don’t miss the Gram-arita: a margarita inspired by Gram Parsons, featuring a half-salted rim.

La Copine: Chef Nikki Hill and her wife, Claire Wadsworth, transformed a dilapidated diner into this seasonal eatery, which maintains its loyal clientele despite limited hours from Thursday to Sunday (11 AM to 4 PM).

Joshua Tree Saloon: A rustic spot offering burgers, beers, and live music within a nostalgic wooden watering hole.

The Palms: A popular dive bar and music venue in Wonder Valley that draws in the entire Joshua Tree community.

Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace: Originally a “cantina” for Hollywood westerns, this building has served as a restaurant, bar, and music venue since 1972.

Red Dog Saloon: This movie-set saloon in Pioneertown is now recognized for its exceptional tacos and agave spirits.

The Tiny Pony Tavern: A queer-friendly establishment that offers tropical drinks and imaginative bar appetizers, such as wild-boar sloppy joes, yuca fries with queso, and lemon-habanero cheesecake.

What to Do

The Integratron: In the 1950s, George Van Tassel claimed he possessed extraterrestrial technology. Today, this structure hosts guided sound bath experiences.

Joshua Tree National Park: Named after its distinctive trees, this expansive 1,240-square-mile park features nine camping areas and over 30 hiking trails at the intersection of the Mojave and Colorado deserts.

Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Art Museum of Assemblage Sculpture: The pioneering sculptor established a sculpture park on his 10-acre property, brimming with his innovative works created from found materials.

The Station: This converted 1949 service station features a selection of desert memorabilia, including serapes, vintage curios, and potted cacti.

Wine & Rock Shop: Dive into a selection of natural wines and New Age crystals—what more could one want?

A version of this story first appeared in the April 2023 issue of GoTravelDaily under the headline “Time and Space.”