Hidden Culinary Gems in South Korea

Quieted away, around the corner from one of South Korea’s grandest hotels is a great food secret: Gwanghwamun Jip. Its worn-out blue sign gives away the restaurant’s long history, and with one spicy spoonful of the signature kimchi stew, it’s clear why droves of locals queue up here at lunchtime.

South Korea’s cities are full of wonderful hole-in-the-wall restaurants secreted off down back streets. Too often, these are missed by visitors, although they represent some of the country’s best and most authentic dining experiences. Many are run by families (very often, grannies) that lived through Korea’s tumultuous 20th century. They cater to local tastes, don’t make adjustments to their dishes, and aren’t afraid to demand cash. However, service might feel a bit gruff; if you flash a smile and attempt a few words in Korean, you’ll likely find yourself showered with sudden warmth.

Many of South Korea’s mom ‘n’ pop restaurants pride themselves on two or three star dishes and really perfect them. It helps to know what to order before you set foot inside: soups such as gamja-tang (pork back stew) and seolleongtang (ox-bone soup), alongside noodles like naengmyun (iced noodles) or kalguksu (knife noodles), are the most typical offerings.

Identifying these dive restaurants can be tricky; a worn interior isn’t everything. The best usually have lines out the door at lunch, seem to have fading wallpaper, and may boast a few framed newspaper clippings of a political figure or celebrity enjoying a meal there.

We’ve chosen our favourite South Korean hole-in-the-wall restaurants, where – behind an unassuming door – you can enjoy generous portions of traditional food served with a dash of no-nonsense Korean culture.

Gwanghwamun Jip

Gwanghwamun Jip originally opened as an octopus stir-fry and doenjang-stew (soy-bean paste stew) restaurant in 1950. In 1980, it was redeveloped into one of Seoul’s most enduring kimchi-stew establishments. The three ladies (now in their 70s) who own and operate the restaurant prepare approximately 2000 heads of kimchi every year. Not only is their stew a perfect balance of fatty pork and ripened kimchi, but it is free of all the MSG that some other stew restaurants might add. For an extra ₩5000, pair the spicy soup with a mild-but-delicious steamed egg roll. Table seating is available at the first level, but when possible, climb up the narrow stairs of death and try the Korean-style heated-floor seating on the second level.

12 Saemunan-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Eulmildae

After migrating south during the Korean War, Kim In-joo opened Eulmildae in 1971 and named it after a pavilion near her former home in Pyongyang. The restaurant is most famous for its North Korean-style naengmyun (iced noodles) cooked three different ways: mul (in chilled broth), bibim (with thick spicy sauce), and hoe (with raw fish). The star dish is, by far, the mul-naengmyun – thin, chewy noodles combined with a slightly sour cool broth that is a must-try on summer days. In recent years, Eulmildae has franchised, adding a handful of locations around Seoul; however, any naengmyun-lover will tell you that the original location in Mapo remains the best. Real pros will advise you to request the mul-naengmyun without ice (eol-eum bbae-ju-se-yo), for the freshest version.

24, Soongmun-gil Mapo-gu, Seoul

Kangsan Myeonok

Kangsan Myeonok in the city of Daegu dates back to 1951, when the founding family left North Korea during the war and began preparing recipes reminiscent of their homeland. Its current location, on the second floor of an old shopping plaza, opened in 1958. The restaurant is recognized for its Pyeongang-style naengmyeon (iced noodles), but the real standout is the galbi-jjim (braised beef short ribs). The soft, tender meat easily forks apart, and the sweet marinade will have you savoring every bite.

27-8 Gyodong-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu

Hadongkwan

The unassuming wooden-door exterior of Hadongkwan can seem intimidating for many a traveller, but venture in for a culinary treat. The restaurant only serves two dishes: suyuk (boiled beef) and gomtang (beef-bone soup). The soup is offered in two sizes, regular and large, and can be enhanced with a side of their garlicky kimchi. Fans of Hadongkwan attest that the depth of the broth and the tenderness of the meat are unmatched by any other gomtang restaurant in South Korea. Rumor has it that former President Park Chung-hee was so fond of the restaurant that he ordered 30 bowls of the specialty soup while on a business trip to Jeju-do.

12 Myeongdong 9-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

Ddoongbo Jip

Located on Busan’s famous jjukumi (webfoot octopus) street, the name of this restaurant – opened in 1982 – literally means ‘Fatty’s House’. Crowds of people line up for the spicy, leggy delicacy at Ddoongbo Jip, confidently choosing this venue over its competitors along the street. Jjukumi here is grilled over charcoal right beside the entrance, and each generous portion is accompanied by a basket of vegetables, soybean curd, and a soup of the day. For those less inclined to munch on cephalopod, the bossam (pork belly) wrapped in kimchi and the rokbin (deep-fried shrimp pancakes) are also in high demand. Some might even argue that the bossam is the real dish to try.

3 Jungang-daero 41beon-gil, Jung-gu, Busan

Golmok Bunshik

Possibly the most off-the-beaten-track venue on this list, Golmok Bunshik is located in a half-basement in Yeongdo, Busan. Run by an elderly couple, the 30-year-old restaurant serves various types of ramyeon (Korean instant noodles) and has a collection of vintage comic books. Their most famous bibim-myeon is created by boiling the noodles, adding a signature spicy sauce, and finishing with sesame and cucumber seeds on top. For a warmer option, try the ₩1500 original noodles. Although it’s literally just ramyeon from the package, the consistency of the noodles will make you feel as if you’re experiencing instant noodles for the first time.

12 Jungnibunk-ro 22beon-gil, Yeongdo-gu, Busan

Dongwon Jip

Even on the coldest winter nights, you’ll see a line outside Dongwon Jip in Euljiro3ga. Opened in 1987, the restaurant is best known for its gamja-guk (pork-back soup) and soondae-guk (blood sausage stew). Owner Yoon Soon-young credits the restaurant’s consistency over the years for its popularity. The gamja-guk broth is prepared overnight in a large, haphazard stone pot near the entrance, and the meat is tenderized for three hours before being served. Louder and rowdier than similar hole-in-the-wall establishments, Dongwon Jip serves soju (Korean distilled spirit) and beer in addition to meals, earning the affectionate nickname of ‘delicious bar’.

22 Eulji-ro 11-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul