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The summit of the world’s tallest mountain has been the ultimate challenge for climbers for over a century. Who were the five greatest Everest climbers of all time? While other climbers have ascended the mountain more often, these climbers have made their mark in the history of Everest mountaineering.
George Mallory: Mount Everest’s Most Famous Climber
In 1924, 37-year-old George Leigh Mallory (1886-1924) was perhaps Britain’s most famous mountaineer. The charismatic ex-schoolteacher was already a seasoned Himalayan veteran, having participated in the 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition to Mount Everest and an attempt on the mountain in 1922 that ended in tragedy with the deaths of several Sherpas. Mallory was, however, celebrated for breaking the 8,000-meter barrier, climbing up to 26,600 feet without the use of supplemental oxygen.
As destiny had it, Mallory was set to join the 1924 Everest expedition. Despite harboring a premonition that he wouldn’t return to his wife Ruth and their three small children, he felt optimistic about the group’s chances of success, given his previous experiences.
The first summit attempt was by Major Edward Norton and Theodore Somervell on June 4, 1924, who reached a high-altitude record at 28,314 feet. Four days later, George Mallory and young Sandy Irvine set out with the intention of reaching the summit using supplemental oxygen.
Last Seen Alive
On June 8, the duo began their ascent up the Northeast Ridge. At approximately 12:50 p.m., they were last seen alive by expedition geologist Noel Odell, who spotted them through a break in the clouds at the Second Step. Unfortunately, they never returned to camp, shrouding their summit attempt in mystery.
Years later, various pieces of gear were discovered, including Irvine’s ice axe in 1933, and Chinese climbers claimed to have seen remains during expeditions in the 1970s. This sparked discussions regarding Mallory and Irvine’s fate.
Discovery of Mallory’s Body
The 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition located Mallory’s body along with personal items, including goggles, an altimeter, a knife, and letters from his wife. The search did not uncover his camera, which could potentially unravel the mystery of his final climb. Eyewitness reports suggest that Mallory’s unfortunate accident likely occurred during his descent, raising the enduring question: did he and Irvine achieve the summit before their demise?
Reinhold Messner: Everest Climbing Visionary
Reinhold Messner, born in 1944 in Italy, is considered one of the greatest Everest climbers of all time. His journey began in the Dolomites, reaching his first summit at a tender age of five. By his twenties, he had already established himself as an exceptional rock climber in Europe.
Climbing Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen
Messner’s philosophy changed dramatically following a tragic expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1970. He believed that climbing Everest without supplemental oxygen was the true test of skill and spirit. On May 8, 1978, alongside Peter Habeler, Messner defied medical skepticism by becoming the first climber to reach the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen.
Upon reaching the summit, Messner described his experience, reflecting on the transcendental nature of the climb: “In my state of spiritual abstraction, I no longer belong to myself and to my eyesight. I am nothing more than a single narrow gasping lung, floating over the mists and summits.”
New Solo Route up Everest
In an audacious feat in 1980, Messner successfully climbed a new route up Everest’s North Face, achieving the summit again without supplemental oxygen, solidifying his pioneering legacy.
Messner Climbs All 14 Eight-thousanders
In 1986, Messner became the first person to conquer all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, which include the towering giants of the Himalayas like Makalu and Lhotse.
Sir Edmund Hillary: New Zealand Beekeeper Makes Everest First Ascent
On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary (1919-2008) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made history as the first recorded climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Hillary, a humble New Zealand beekeeper, initially explored the Himalayas in 1951 before returning for the British expedition led by John Hunt.
After two hours spent thawing his frozen boots, Hillary and Tenzing set off for the summit from their high camp and became international heroes after successfully conquering Everest.
Tenzing Norgay: Sherpa to the Top of the World
Tenzing Norgay, a Nepalese Sherpa, played a crucial role in achieving the first summit of Mount Everest alongside Hillary. Growing up in the Khumbu region, Norgay was already familiar with the terrain and had joined multiple expeditions before his historic climb in 1953.
His legacy continues within Sherpa culture, having turned into an ambassador and trekking tour organizer following his monumental ascent.
Eric Shipton: Great Mount Everest Explorer
Eric Shipton (1907-1977) was among the most significant explorers of Asia’s high mountains, including Mount Everest. He undertook many expeditions, discovering key routes such as the Khumbu Glacier, which is now the standard path used to approach the South Col.
Despite his notable contributions, Shipton faced disappointment when leadership of the successful 1953 expedition was taken from him due to differing views on team size and climbing philosophy.
