France’s Fortified Medieval City Carcassonne

Introduction to Carcassonne

Carcassonne is an extraordinary place, a perfect medieval city with its massive fortifications dominating the surrounding countryside. Seen from afar, it seems straight out of a fairy-tale. Inside, it’s even more impressive. Carcassonne is best known for having an entire city that is a castle. La Cité is double-walled, with grassy lices (translated as lists) between the walls you can stroll along. From the massive ramparts, you look down to the lower cité (ville basse).

Carcassonne is one of France’s top tourist destinations, drawing an average of three million visitors yearly. Some people describe it as a tourist trap, and there are shops selling souvenirs; however, despite the crowds, Carcassonne remains an enchanting place to explore. Consequently, it is no surprise that it boasts two UNESCO World Heritage Site listings.

Getting to Carcassonne

By Plane: You can fly into Carcassonne’s airport (Aéroport Sud de France Carcassonne). However, if you are departing from the U.S., you can expect a layover somewhere in Europe or Paris. Ryanair operates cheap flights from the UK to Carcassonne. Once you arrive, a shuttle service to the city center leaves the airport 25 minutes after the arrival of each flight. The cost is 5€ which also grants you one hour’s use of the entire transport system of the city.

By Train: The station is located in the lower town, and there are regular trains from Arles, Beziers, Bordeaux, Marseille, Montpellier, Narbonne, Nîmes, Quillan, and Toulouse. Carcassonne is situated right on the main Toulouse-Montpellier train route.

Getting around Carcassonne

For short journeys in Carcassonne city center, the bus company Agglo runs a free service.

Additionally, there is a tourist train shuttle (2€ single journey – 3€ day return) that connects La Cité and Bastide St Louis.

When to Go

There isn’t really a bad time to visit since the weather here is quite temperate year-round. Therefore, select a season based on your own tastes. In winter, many of the city’s attractions are closed or run on limited hours. Spring and fall can be ideal for pleasant weather. While the summer months have the most events, they also attract a significant number of tourists.

A Little History

Carcassonne has a long history stretching back to the 6^th century BC. It became a Roman city and was then ruled by the Saracens before being driven out by the French in the 10th century. The city’s prosperity began when the Trencavel family ruled Carcassonne from 1082 for around 130 years. In the middle of what is known as Cathar country, after the heretical movement that challenged the Catholic church, Roger de Trencavel offered a haven to the rebels. In 1208, when the Cathars were declared heretics, Simon de Montfort led the Crusade and captured the city in 1209. The movement was eventually crushed with appalling cruelty, culminating in the last stronghold of Montségur falling in 1244.

In 1240, the people of Carcassonne tried to reinstate the Trencavels; however, the French King Louis IX opposed this and subsequently expelled them from the Cité. Eventually, the citizens built a new city – the Bastide St Louis outside the main walls. The French Kings’ takeover of La Cité led to the construction of new buildings, turning it into a powerful place until the late 17^th century, when it fell into decay.

This became the poor part of a city that thrived on the wine trade and cloth manufacturing. Thanks to the efforts of architect Viollet-le-Duc in 1844, it was rescued from ruin; consequently, what you see today is a meticulous restoration that makes you feel as though you’re stepping back in time to a medieval city.

Top Attractions

La Cité may be small, but there’s a lot to see. Here are some highlights:

• You can walk through the lices; however, to walk along the ramparts and view the Château Comtal, the palace of the viscounts of Carcassonne, a guided tour is necessary.
• The Basilica of Saint-Nazaire is another must-see site, showcasing both Romanesque and Gothic architecture, along with captivating stained glass.
• The Bastide St-Louis is located in the lower town on the banks of the River Aude. Built in 1260, it features a rectangular plan around the central Place Carnot, and you can wander along boulevards filled with 18th and 19th-century mansions.
• Stroll past the chapel of Notre-Dame de la Santé, which is the only surviving trace of the city’s oldest hospital, and walk onto the pedestrian-only Pont Vieux. Until the 14^th century, this bridge was the only link between the Bastide St Louis and the old city.

Outside the City

Carcassonne is nestled within spectacular countryside, making it worthwhile to hire a car for side trips. If you’re intrigued by the fate of the Cathars, consider visiting Montségur.

• Montségur is the site of the most significant stand the Cathars made against the Crusaders during the Middle Ages. Make the challenging climb to the ruins of their castle stronghold, where they held off 10,000 Crusaders for months. When they were eventually conquered, many Cathars chose to walk into the flames rather than convert.
• This area is also the heart of Languedoc wine country, so check out some of the vineyards available for visiting at the Tourist Office in Carcassonne.
• Don’t miss Limoux, a village just south of the city. This location hosts the annual Carnivale from January through March and is also a thriving wine-making community. They even claim to have been the true inventors of sparkling wine, asserting that Dom Perignon stole the idea.
• Rennes le Chateau is a unique village where Baron Sauniere, at the turn of the 20th century, erected a church and other religious structures. Rumors abound concerning the Baron’s work, including allegations that Mary Magdalene stayed there after the crucifixion, and that the Holy Grail might be hidden in the area.

Where to Stay in Carcassonne

The Hotel Le Donjon is an excellent choice for the price. Upon entering, the dim lighting and rich red decor will transport you to a medieval castle. Additionally, it offers a wonderful location within La Cité.

If you have the budget, the luxurious four-star Hotel de la Cite is a fantastic option, featuring its own gardens and located conveniently next to the Basilica in La Cité.