Regulated Tubing in Vang Vieng, Laos

Vang Vieng tubing used to draw thousands of travelers a year to central Laos.

Used to.

After mounting casualties attributed to drugs, drinking, and minimal safety precautions in or around a fast-flowing river, the government implemented stricter regulations on the influx of backpackers partying in Vang Vieng.

This situation was inevitable. Vang Vieng’s landscape is incredibly gorgeous: a scenic river framed by mountains and, on good days, a clear blue sky. The location is also surrounded by lagoons and caves for exploration.

Add bars, intoxicants, cheap hostels, and restaurants playing episodes of “Friends” on repeat, and you had the perfect backdrop for backpackers to revel.

In 2011, the year prior to the crackdown, 27 tourist deaths were recorded in Vang Vieng. Despite the fatality rate, visitors continued to flock to the area; such behavior defied logic. “There’s also something called ‘The Death Slide’ next to this river,” wrote “Nomadic Matt” Kepnes in 2012. “It got the name due to all the people who have died using it, which leads to the question — why are people foolish enough to keep using it?!”

The New, Improved Vang Vieng

New government-enforced rules have significantly transformed Vang Vieng, mitigating its more evident dangers. Tubing was initially banned and then gradually reintroduced under strict regulations. The police targeted drug activities, and alcohol sales were limited.

Consequently, most of Vang Vieng’s bars closed, with only a handful allowed to reopen along the river’s edge. Only four bars can operate simultaneously, ensuring a much calmer atmosphere.

The chaos of inebriated, drugged-up backpackers has dissipated, replaced by a more relaxed mix of Western backpackers and Asian tourists exploring the town and its surrounding natural wonders. Even in the off-season, approximately a hundred tourists circulate between the bars.

Surprisingly, despite the new limitations, Vang Vieng is recovering. Vang Vieng’s tourism officer reported that over 140,000 tourists visited in 2014, shortly after the new regulations came into effect.

Today’s Tubing Scene in Vang Vieng

Currently, a single tubing center in Vang Vieng’s downtown manages the reduced number of tourists venturing down the Nam Song River. During peak season, approximately 150 tubes float down the river daily, a notable decrease from the peak figures in 2012.

During peak season from December to May, the tubing ride typically takes about four hours to complete, owing to the river’s lower levels from insufficient rainfall. However, this duration can decrease during the monsoon season from May to November as regular rains increase the river’s flow.

Notably, the ride usually involves several stops at riverside bars. Before the crackdown, the abundance of bars resulted in tubers often finishing their ride completely intoxicated!

Fortunately, the odds of excessive drinking during the ride are significantly reduced today, with only four riverside bars permitted to operate at any given time according to the new regulations.

Renting a Tube in Vang Vieng

At the tubing center, the cost for renting a tube is 55,000 kip, plus a 60,000 kip deposit, which is entirely refundable if you return the tube by 6 pm. If you return the tube between 6 pm and 8 pm, you will receive only 40,000 kip back.

Additionally, you have the option to rent dry bags for around US $2 a day to safeguard your camera and personal belongings, though they may not be entirely waterproof. Therefore, bringing your own dry bag is advisable.

The rental fee includes transportation about 3 km upstream to the starting point, where you will drift downstream and return the tube at the rental office. The office opens at 8 am; it’s recommended to be on the river by 11 am to fully enjoy your tubing experience without rushing.

Keep in mind, the sun sets behind the mountains around 3 pm, causing temperatures to drop significantly.

Tips for Vang Vieng Tubing

• The river is shallow near the finish point; local children often come to assist you with hauling your tube in. Although their smiles may suggest goodwill, a tip is expected for their help.
• When you stop at the bars, be mindful of your tube, which will likely be stacked with the others at the entrance. Some backpackers have been known to take a free tube back, thereby compromising your deposit and means of return!
• While the water may feel refreshing, don’t forget that the Southeast Asian sun is potent; apply sunscreen liberally.
• Dining in Vang Vieng offers much better and cheaper options compared to those found along the river.
• Be vigilant about the clock in the rental office; they are often set 15 minutes ahead to encourage customers to return later.

Edited by Mike Aquino.