Morocco is famous for its historic imperial cities: Fez, Meknes, Marrakesh, and Rabat. Of the four, Fez is both the oldest and the most impressive. Its old town, or medina, is ranked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses the oldest university in the world. Within its myriad medieval streets, a wonderland of vibrant color, sound, and scent awaits.

Fez: A City of Old and New

Fez was founded in 789 by Idris, the Arab ruler responsible for establishing the Idrisid dynasty. Since then, it has earned itself a reputation as an important center of trade and learning. Moreover, it has served as Morocco’s capital on several occasions and experienced its own Golden Age under the rule of the Marinids during the 13th and 14th centuries. Many of the medina’s most iconic monuments, including its Islamic colleges, palaces, and mosques, date from this glorious period of the city’s history.

Today, the medina is known as Fez el-Bali, and its magic remains undimmed by the passage of time. Visitors can hire a guide to navigate its labyrinthine streets or enjoy the sensation of getting lost on their own. You’ll find market stalls, local artisans’ workshops, ornate fountains, and traditional hammams. Outside the medina lies the newest part of Fez, referred to as Ville Nouvelle. Built by the French, it contrasts significantly with Fez el-Bali, featuring wide boulevards, modern shops, and busy traffic.

Key Attractions in Fez

• Chaouwara Tanneries — Fez is famous for its leather, and at traditional tanneries like Chaouwara, leather production methods have hardly changed since medieval times. Here, skins are laid out to dry in the hot sun while vast vats are filled with dyes made from turmeric, poppy, mint, and indigo. Pigeon dung is used to soften the leather before it is dyed, which results in a strong odor. However, the rainbow colors of the dye vats in the early morning make for excellent photography opportunities.
• Kairaouine Mosque — Tucked deep into the heart of the medina, the Kairaouine Mosque is Morocco’s second-largest mosque and is associated with the world’s oldest continuously run university, the University of Al-Karaouine. Its origins date back to the mid-9th century. The library at Kairaouine Mosque is one of the most important in the world. However, non-Muslims can only view the mosque from the outside as entry is not permitted.
• Medersa Bou Inania — This historic Islamic college, built during the Marinid rule, is one of the finest examples of Marinid architecture in Morocco and welcomes visitors of all faiths. Although the layout of the college is rather simple, the adornments that cover almost every surface are anything but. Magnificent stucco work and intricate wood carvings can be found throughout, while expensive marbles gleam in the courtyard. The Islamic zellij, or mosaics, are particularly impressive.

Getting to Fez

There are several ways to reach Fez. Train travel in Morocco is reliable and provides connections to many of the country’s major cities, including Tangier, Marrakesh, Casablanca, and Rabat. Trains typically do not fill up ahead of time, allowing for travel plans without stress. Alternatively, long-distance bus companies like CTM or Supratours offer more economical travel options between Morocco’s primary destinations. However, it’s important to note that there are two bus stations in Fez. The city also has its own airport, Fès–Saïs Airport (FEZ).

Once you arrive in Fez, exploring on foot is recommended due to the pedestrianized streets of the medina. If needed, visitors can use a petit-taxi, small red cars that operate similarly to taxis in other parts of the world. Ensure that your driver uses the meter or agree upon a fare beforehand. Be prepared for the possibility of your luggage being strapped to the roof of the cab. Porters with carts are available to assist with your luggage in the medina, but it’s customary to offer a tip for their services.

Where to Stay

For the most authentic experience in Fez, consider staying in a riad. Riads are traditional homes converted into boutique hotels featuring airy courtyards and a limited number of rooms. Notable riads include Riad Mabrouka and Riad Damia. Riad Mabrouka is a masterpiece of Moroccan tile work, featuring eight rooms, a small swimming pool, and beautiful gardens with stunning views from several terraces. In contrast, Riad Damia provides seven suites and rooms, a top-floor apartment, and a magnificent rooftop terrace, both located within the historic medina.

Where to Eat

Fez boasts a vibrant restaurant scene, and part of the adventure is discovering culinary treasures in unexpected locations. For fine dining, L’Amandier, perched on the terrace of heritage hotel Palais Faraj, serves Moroccan favorites against stunning views of the medina. Conversely, if you’re looking for a budget-friendly option, Chez Rachid offers tasty tagines at a fraction of the cost of the city’s more upscale venues.