Introduction to Chaves

Chaves is a provincial town in the north of Portugal on the River Tâmega, located just 10km from the northern border with Spain. Situated in the district of Vila Real, within the historic region of Tras-os-Montes, Chaves serves as a convenient stop for travelers coming from major tourist centers such as Braga and Porto, which are each about two hours away by car.

The town boasts a population of approximately 45,000 residents. The Tras-os-Montes region is known as one of the poorer areas in Portugal. However, outside the relatively affluent town of Chaves, one can observe numerous villages linked by poor roads, where subsistence agriculture remains prevalent. Despite the high rates of illiteracy, many villagers speak multiple languages, demonstrating their friendliness and helpfulness, particularly when visitors inquire about road conditions and directions.

Chaves: A Spa Town

The spas in Chaves offer a unique experience, distinct from those found in other destinations such as Baden-Baden. The thermal waters here are notably hotter, reaching temperatures of 73°C (163°F), and are renowned for their curative properties. Visitors can arrange a preliminary consultation with a hotel-affiliated doctor, who will then recommend tailored treatments. Common ailments treated include those affecting the stomach, liver, intestines, and kidneys. During the summer months, the Pensões and smaller hotels are often filled with older guests seeking wellness treatments at the spas.

Where to Stay

Chaves provides a variety of lodging options, with four-star accommodations available at reasonable prices compared to other European countries. A recommended choice is Albergaria Jaime, located conveniently below the old fort walls. Guests can enjoy air-conditioned rooms, some with balconies that overlook the fort (even from the bathrooms), and a delicious breakfast, all for around 70 Euros.

Local Cuisine

Chaves is famous for its culinary delicacies, particularly the local delicacy known as presunto, a celebrated country ham. This can be enjoyed alongside the region’s traditional rye bread. Additionally, smoked sausages are a popular culinary highlight. Another traditional item is Folar de Chaves or Folar de Tras dos Montes—an exquisite bread akin to brioche, often served as a savory offering stuffed with ham and/or chorizo.

Chaves Attractions

In addition to its spa offerings, Chaves features several noteworthy attractions:

• The Roman Bridge – Constructed around 100 AD, this historic bridge has been adapted over the years yet still stands strong, with two original columns from Emperor Trajan’s era remaining visible.
• The Medieval Quarter – Located near the bridge, this charming area showcases evocative architecture that is legally protected.
• The Regional Museum – Museu da Região Flaviense – This museum offers insights into the region’s rich history, featuring a diverse collection ranging from Roman artifacts to contemporary local art.
• The Chaves Castle – Though reduced to a tall tower housing a military museum, the castle’s surrounding gardens create a pleasant ambiance for a leisurely stroll.
• The Fort – A well-preserved 17th-century fort located just outside Chaves is historically significant, built to safeguard the area during the war of independence from Spain. Visitors have the unique opportunity to stay within the fort by booking a room at the nearby Forte de São Francisco, known for its reasonable pricing and design-focused accommodations.