Summary
Despite the many adventurous things to do in West Sumatra, you may often find yourself the only foreign traveler in sight. However, locals love to interact, making the experience incredibly rewarding. Fortunately, they’ve swapped blowguns for smartphones.
The far side of Indonesia’s largest island has somehow remained off the backpacker radar in Southeast Asia. Meanwhile, other adventurous yet accessible places are being trodden to a muddy pulp by tourists’ boots.
West Sumatra offers a quiet challenge for travelers unafraid to step up. It’s no Bali; don’t expect chocolates on your pillow. You’ll perform your own turndown service and check for bedmates with too many legs. Buses and rough roads offer free chiropractic adjustments, and driving in Sumatra terrifies even the most seasoned drivers in Asia.
Braving the equatorial heat and road chaos is incredibly rewarding—especially for adventure seekers. Sumatra ranks alongside Borneo in thrilling natural wildness, hosting the only islands in the world with wild orangutans.
With easy accessibility, indigenous culture, geothermic lakes, fern-tangled valleys, undeveloped beaches, and climbable volcanoes, all the ingredients for a memorable adventure are present. Yet, most of Sumatra’s non-surfing visitors end up in Bukit Lawang to see orangutans or Lake Toba to enjoy the largest volcanic lake in the world. Only the intrepid few wander south to glimpse the rest of Sumatra.
Getting There: No need to swing a machete through the jungle. Flights from Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta take around an hour and cost less than US $50.
Visit the Harau Valley
The verdant Harau Valley is around two hours north of Bukittinggi by motorbike. You can catch a ride, but having your own two wheels opens up additional adventures.
Waterfalls abound, as do vibrant rice fields and impressive rock outcrops. Some short hikes are available, but the true reason to visit the Harau Valley is the scenery. After too much time in dirty concrete in Padang or Payakumbuh, the sprawling green of the valley will bring tears to your eyes.
Abdi Homestay is a great place to begin in Harau Valley, with rustic bungalows set in spectacular scenery. Accommodation is limited in the area, so it’s wise to call ahead (+ 62 852 6378 1842).
- Before You Go: Although driving to the Harau Valley feels wild, you’ll need to push through bustling Payakumbuh, the second largest city in West Sumatra, just before reaching the valley.
Climb an Active Volcano
Sumatra is a glorious, volcanic playground for adventurous travelers, and Bukittinggi sits precariously between two volcanoes. Visiting the island without climbing at least one gunung would be regretful. The most popular choice is to climb Gunung Marapi.
Gunung Marapi, with an elevation of 9,485 feet, is less daunting than Gunung Kerinci, the tallest volcano in Indonesia. Regardless, you’ll have to work for every inch as you claw and scramble up the steep trail and brittle lava field near the top. Gunung Marapi can be scaled in one long day (8-10 hours) with a sunrise start.
Although Gunung Marapi isn’t far from the equator, the top gets chilly. The black, sandy wasteland of the crater complex feels otherworldly and stinks of sulfur.
Using a guide is optional for experienced hikers and climbers. The trail is tough, but easy to follow and starts just 45 minutes from Bukittinggi. If possible, go on a weekday; locals love to camp and party there on weekends.
- Before You Go: Gunung Marapi in Sumatra is often confused with Gunung Merapi in Java. Pay attention when researching; both are pronounced the same, but spelling matters!
Visit Lake Maninjau
The traveler adage “always visit islands last because you may get stuck” certainly applies to Lake Maninjau. The big crater lake, located 22 miles west of Bukittinggi, encourages lazy days of reading, fishing, and recovering leg muscles after a tough volcano climb.
While Lake Maninjau cannot compete with Lake Toba in North Sumatra for size or popularity, it possesses its own charm. The lake takes over an hour to circumnavigate on motorbike and averages 344 feet deep. Notably, it’s full of fish! The delicious ones end up on offer in nearby eateries.
The scenic road that descends to the lake features numerous cafes and overlooks for enjoying the vistas. Driving to the backside of the lake reveals beautiful scenes of daily life unrelated to tourism.
- Before You Go: The Beach Guest House / Bagoes Cafe is a good option in the area. Accommodation isn’t luxurious, but the food, Wi-Fi, and extras (canoes, fishing, and advice) are excellent.
Stay on a Secluded Beach
The beach strip of brick and pebbles right in Padang isn’t idyllic. Rocks, rubbish, and traffic noise discourage lingering longer than grabbing a fish lunch at one of the many ikan bakar stands. Air Manis Beach or Bungus Beach are better options, yet still too close to the hustle and bustle of the city.
If you have the time and energy, you can enjoy a very remote beach bungalow experience south of Padang, where jungle meets coastline. Although getting there requires patience, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful respite from the busy city life.
The Rimba Ecolodge is a French-Indonesian-run operation far from the reach of Sumatra’s persistent traffic. You can forget about Wi-Fi or phone service—this isn’t a place for social-media culling; it’s a place to disappear. Electricity is available for only a few hours each day, but you’ll hardly notice as you snorkel, trek through the jungle, and read in a hammock.
If you’ve ever wanted to try life on a private jungle beach, this is your opportunity. All meals and unlimited coffee/tea are provided at a very reasonable price—there’s nowhere else to go!
- Before You Go: Rimba is only accessible by boat; visitors often leave from the Tin-Tin Homestay in Bungus. Call +62 888 0740 2278 or check http://www.rimba-ecoproject.com/ for availability before risking the boat trip.
See a Cow Race
It takes good timing—and a bit of luck—to catch a seasonal pacu jawi (cow race) event in West Sumatra. The effort is worth it to witness this unusual cultural happening. Villages take turns hosting races; locations and times rotate. You’ll need to ask around to find an event and rent a motorbike or arrange transportation to get there. The races celebrate the end of the rice harvest and provide a rare opportunity for socialization between rural villages.
Quirky, chaotic, and fun are the only ways to describe pacu jawi. Races are anything but orderly; teams go when they are ready. Cows may escape from jockeys, resulting in countless muddy mishaps. Mud flies, crowds taunt and cheer, and horns blare. Find a good spot to watch and be ready for any runaway steers!
This event is a big social gathering, albeit with a lot of mud involved. Rest assured, the ploughing cows won’t be harmed and will be cleaned up to be auctioned off after the races.
- Before You Go: Take a hat, sunscreen, and umbrella. Pacu jawi events are held in rice paddies under the equatorial Sumatran sun, and there will be little or no shade available!
Climb the Tallest Volcano in Indonesia
If you’re already a volcanic climber and Gunung Marapi’s 9,485 feet feels like the Little Leagues, look no further: Mount Kerinci, not far away, is the tallest volcano in Indonesia.
At 12,484 feet, Mount Kerinci doesn’t seem too daunting when compared to the imposing massifs in places like Nepal. However, climbers learn the hard way that the powerful winds near the summit can halt progress and visibility. Perpetually cold rain, mud, and generally challenging conditions mean that you’ll have to earn this climb—and bring a guide, as independent trekkers have sometimes disappeared there.
Reaching Indonesia’s tallest will take two days and an overnight stay. The setting in Kerinci Seblat National Park only adds to the allure, as Sumatran tigers and rhinos inhabit the area!
- Before You Go: Besides a reliable guide, you’ll need warm clothing for the overnight stay. If you didn’t expect to get cold in Sumatra (which is typically hot), check the second-hand clothing markets in town for affordable flannel shirts. A few outfitting shops in Bukittinggi carry both fake and authentic Gortex shells if you wish to splurge.
Visit the Mentawai Islands
The 70 or so Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra are home to the Mentawai people, an indigenous group of hunter-gatherers. Although modernization has set in and loin cloths are often swapped for jean shorts, the Mentawai culture remains fascinating but is rapidly diminishing. Traditional customs include tattooing and teeth sharpening.
The Mentawai Islands have been a favorite among serious surfers for decades, as the unforgiving, world-class waves break over reef and rock. It is, however, not advisable for newbies—head to Lombok or Kuta, Bali for lessons if you’re not yet an expert with a board.
Even if you don’t plan to surf, there is much to explore onshore. The Mentawai Islands are becoming increasingly appealing as an alternative adventure destination. Intrepid travelers venture here for trekking, diving/snorkeling, learning about indigenous culture, and yes—to get traditional tattoos.
- Before You Go: The 2017 documentary As Worlds Divide gives insight into life in a Mentawai forest community.
