Visiting onsen, or hot spring baths, is a national pastime in Japan. They are integral to Japan’s landscape, having existed since the formation of the Japanese archipelago millions of years ago. Wherever there are mountains—and Japan has many—you are likely to find onsen.

Japanese people have enjoyed the therapeutic and medicinal benefits of hot springs since ancient times. Consequently, foreign travelers are increasingly opting for traditional ryokan that feature luxurious communal baths rather than standard hotels. This guide will navigate the dos and don’ts of enjoying Japan’s best-kept secret.

The Etiquette of Onsen

Onsen can be intimidating for first-time visitors. The idea of bathing with strangers might deter some; however, most visitors discover that their anxiety dissipates upon experiencing the soothing warmth of a natural bath.

Rest assured, onsen etiquette is quite simple. First and foremost, hot springs are to be entered completely naked—this means no swimsuits. Guests at ryokan typically receive a yukata, a light cotton kimono, which can be worn after bathing. Your accommodations will usually provide one average-sized towel and one small towel. Remember to bring these with you when you venture into the baths. It is also essential to note that onsen are generally segregated by gender, although several co-ed options exist throughout Japan.

Regrettably, transgender, genderqueer, and intersex individuals may encounter challenges accessing onsen. Nevertheless, there are ongoing efforts, especially in Beppu, to ensure that hot spring resorts become more inclusive for all genders.

How to Bathe

The changing area of onsen typically provides lockers or baskets for storing clothes and belongings. After undressing, take only the small towel with you into the bathing area. It is common sense, but do not use cameras or cell phones in either the changing room or bathing area!

Before entering the pools, it is necessary to shower first. Small plastic seats and shallow buckets are neatly arranged at the entrance. Take one of each and head to any of the small showers lining the room’s sides. Wash your body thoroughly and rinse off all soap. The small towel can be used to scrub your body or to tie up your hair; however, ensure that neither the towel nor your hair ever contacts the onsen water. While soaking, many individuals fold their towels and rest them atop their heads.

Once you are completely clean, you are ready to enjoy the onsen experience!

The Tattoo Problem

While numerous onsen prohibit visitors with tattoos due to past associations with organized crime, some establishments may overlook smaller tattoos or show leniency towards foreign guests. Therefore, if you are significantly tattooed, it is wise to double-check with the onsen beforehand. For smaller tattoos, applying a band-aid can serve as simple, temporary concealment. Thankfully, many tattoo-friendly establishments are available, so do not be disheartened if your first choice denies access.

The Baths of Japan

Hot spring water varies significantly from one onsen to another. Owners often emphasize the unique positive effects their baths provide—whether medicinal, therapeutic, or beautifying. For instance, the Takimotokan onsen in Hokkaido features five distinct springs, each offering unique benefits. The sodium spring is said to soften the skin and alleviate eczema, while the ‘ferrous sulphate’ spring aims to improve circulation.

This trend is not isolated to Takimotokan; hot springs across Japan proudly claim the therapeutic powers of their geothermal waters. Notably, the best hot spring destinations can be found in nearly every Japanese prefecture. If you find yourself near Tokyo, consider visiting Hakone, renowned for its stunning views of Mount Fuji.

Private Baths

For those who remain skeptical about public bathing, numerous private onsen options are available, including establishments that can be rented for exclusive use. Although often priced higher, choices such as Ryokan Kurashiki near Okayama and Gora Kadan in Hakone come highly recommended.