Summary
Commemorating Constantine With a Spiritual Twist
If you’re in search of an authentic European festival away from the tourist traps, consider visiting Sedilo in the heart of Sardinia during the summer. This quaint town hosts a horse race and festival that is nothing short of spectacular.
One of Sardinia’s major festivals is L’Ardia di San Costantino. This event commemorates Constantine’s historic victory over Maxentius at the Milvian Bridge in 312 A.D. During this momentous occasion, Constantine reportedly witnessed a flaming cross inscribed with the words “In this sign thou shall conquer.”
Rituals and Ceremonies
On July 6 and 7 each year, a grand re-enactment of Constantine’s charge takes place, featuring a monumental horse race held on the grounds of the Sanctuario di San Costantino, positioned just outside Sedilo’s eastern perimeter.
As the race evening approaches, horses and riders gather on a nearby hill beyond the sanctuary grounds. The local priest and the mayor deliver inspirational speeches accompanied by eloquent gestures. These speeches include prayers for the safety of the riders and for the victory of Constantine, symbolizing the sanctification of Christianity. Subsequently, the horses spring into action, led by the representation of Constantine, followed closely by his flag bearers and the thundering herd of riders.
Upon reaching the sanctuary, the horses circle it slowly, receiving blessings from the priest each time they pass the front gate—this ritual is performed seven times. Interestingly, on race day, Constantine takes off after the sixth pass, racing to the dry fountain that signifies the finish line. The collective relief of the Sedilo community is palpable; a win signifies the renewal of Christianity’s core values for another year.
Local Flavors
After the race, attendees make their way to an open field where succulent suckling pigs are roasted in wood-fired ovens, and live skewered eels sizzle over hot coals, offering a feast for the senses.
As a unique tradition, only one individual may portray Constantine each year, and this person must have received a special dispensation from God. The reverence for this honor is immense, as many aspiring riders often find themselves waiting several years for the opportunity to fulfill this role. By that time, they are seasoned enough to leverage every possible advantage against the younger and more vigorous horses. This sense of surprise often works to their favor.
The following morning, the local race occurs again, albeit with a twist. This time, the course is littered with crushed beer cans and glass shards, creating a humorous yet challenging obstacle. After the race, participants gather at the priest’s house to enjoy sips of vernaccia, the local wine, accompanied by delightful pastries. Visits to the homes of the flag bearers are typical, offering even more of the same delightful indulgences.
It’s noteworthy that there’s typically just one glass for sharing the vernaccia, fostering a sense of community. This is Sardinia; immersing in their traditions will become second nature.
When and Where
When: Annually on July 6 and 7
Where: Sedilo, Sardinia, Italy
Getting There
Travelers can take a flight to Cagliari from Rome or Milan, utilize the Tirrenia Ferry from Civitavecchia to Cagliari or Olbia/Golfo Aranci, or explore further ferry options from Civitavecchia to Cagliari. Note that Sedilo does not have a train station; hence, renting a car in Cagliari and driving north to Sedilo is recommended.
Lodging Options
Finding accommodation in close proximity to Sedilo during the festival can be challenging. However, the Hotel Su Gologone in Sardinia, though a bit further away, aligns well with the island’s lifestyle. The nearest larger city, Oristano, may also offer lodging options.
