An Up-and-Coming Area That’s Worth a Peek

The 17th arrondissement (district) of Paris is a peaceful, residential area located in the northwestern corner of the city that has largely flown under the radar for tourists. However, it is becoming increasingly popular with locals. As young families and artists have been priced out of more centrally located neighborhoods, the tranquil, leafy 17th is attracting a new generation to the area. Consequently, this has led to the opening of new restaurants, bars, and a vibrant nightlife scene, along with pleasant spaces for strolling and picnics.

It’s not all sleepy, though; the district is characterized by contrasts. The “gate” to the 17th is the historically vibrant Place de Clichy, a bustling square that once was a bit rough around the edges but provides a lively atmosphere. In contrast, the quieter “Batignolles” neighborhood to the northwest is marked by serene squares, markets, and laid-back residential streets.

Getting There & Getting Around

If you don’t mind a short walk, you can disembark at Metro Place de Clichy or Blanche (Line 2) and stroll towards Boulevard des Batignolles, where you will have the opportunity to explore a variety of charming streets and capture the essence of the area.

View a map of the 17th arrondissement.

Main Attractions in the Area

• Place de Clichy: In close proximity to Pigalle and the famous Moulin Rouge, this enormous Haussmannian square retains some of the grandeur associated with 19th-century Paris. While certain modern establishments have slightly diminished its old-world charm, Clichy still evokes a distinctive sense of excitement and a hint of the seedy energy that animated the area during the “Belle Epoque”—the decades surrounding the turn of the 20th century.
• The Batignolles neighborhood: Once frequented by 19th-century artists and writers such as Emile Zola and Edouard Manet, this green neighborhood fell out of favor in the 20th century but is currently experiencing a revival. Trendy new restaurants, shops, bars, and cultural centers are opening continuously, particularly along notable streets such as Rue Legendre, Boulevard des Batignolles, and Rue des Dames. Hip young Parisians, weary of overcrowded and overpriced areas like Marais and Bastille, are increasingly drawn to the laid-back charm of the 17th. This neighborhood also boasts lovely parks and squares, including the notable Square des Batignolles, where on weekends, a local organic food market brings a sense of community reminiscent of its village past.
• Parc Monceau: Heading west toward the Champs-Élysées area, this beautiful park is one of the most picturesque and regal in Paris. Established by Philippe d’Orleans, cousin of Louis XVI, it features an informal layout with gardens that are particularly stunning in spring. The park is adorned with statues commemorating famous French figures like writers Chateaubriand and Guy de Maupassant, as well as musician Frederic Chopin. (Metro: Courcelles; the main entrance is located on Boulevard de Courcelles).

Bars, Restaurants & Nightlife in the 17th

The nightlife scene in the 17th is expanding rapidly; hence, it’s worth noting that information can change quickly.

• For before-dinner drinks or aperitifs, recommend visiting The Popular Caves (22 rue des Dames), known for its well-mixed cocktails and impressive wine selection. Right next door, Le Comptoir des Batignolles (20 rue des Dames) provides a well-rounded menu featuring on-tap beers, quality wines, and solid cocktails.
• For a relaxed bistro-style atmosphere and fare, try Gaston (11 Rue Brochant, metro Brochant). This establishment serves traditional brasserie dishes including meat terrines, pork filet mignon, and whole roasted chicken accompanied by roasted vegetables. Their desserts are particularly praised, and the wine selection is commendable.
• For a more avant-garde, gastronomic experience in the 17th, consider visiting Coretta, a restaurant celebrated by local food enthusiasts and frequently cited as a representative of Paris’ new gastronomic scene. Emphasizing fresh local ingredients and imaginative flavors, the dishes are simple yet innovative, with a unique focus on vegetables, all complemented by remarkably friendly service. (151 bis rue Cardinet, Metro: Brochant)