Summary
There are 20 restaurants in the UK with two coveted Michelin stars. Only one of them is a pub: Tom Kerridge’s The Hand and Flowers in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, holds that honor.
With a high-profile television chef as its patron and a star rating that competes with Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and Michel Roux Jr’s Le Gavroche, the wait for a confirmed table can exceed a year. Fortunately, we learned about the four comfortable bar seats available at lunch, allowing us to visit with less than two weeks’ notice.
However, if you desire a guaranteed reservation on a specific date, patience is essential.
Setting the Scene
The Hand and Flowers occupies a charming 17th-century pub on the Marlow to Henley Road, just west of the picturesque village of Marlow. It features a rambling, whitewashed brick exterior, a red tile roof, hanging baskets brimming with geraniums, and mullioned windows. Inside, the pub ambiance persists with dark beamed ceilings above three dark wood-floored, whitewashed rooms adorned with bare wooden tables. An added section houses the bar, complete with cozy bar seats and additional tables. Only the elegantly set tables, lined with glassware and candlesticks, signify that this is a pub in name only.
The Service and Fare
We initially worried about sitting at the bar, but the vintage leather padded stools with arms and backs were surprisingly comfortable. A minor downside was the lack of convenient space to place a handbag. Some hanging hooks under the bar could enhance comfort. Additionally, sitting at the bar allows for direct interaction with the barman, leading to a more personalized level of service. Our experience indicated that all staff members were friendly and welcoming.
Extra Bits and Pieces
Although there may be a relatively long wait for food, it’s reasonable considering that everything is cooked to order. To pass the time, we were treated to an assortment of delightful pub-inspired snacks, which included:
- a glass of Poiré Granit, a beautifully scented pear cider from France,
- a newspaper cone of whitebait,
- several slices of chewy sourdough bread with sweet butter,
- a small bowl of lemony pickled vegetables,
- and the standout—Kerridge’s version of the pub favorite, pork scratchings. Light and airy, these were celebrated by the Guardian as one of their ten best British recipes in 2014.
Just don’t get carried away; the best is yet to come.
The Food
The culinary style is classified as modern British, often showcasing hearty dishes such as slow-cooked duck breast served with peas, duck fat chips, and gravy (a winner in the “Great British Menu” competition in 2010), Cotswold venison loin with boudin noir purée, and various other meat-centric cuisines. The menu frequently features refined interpretations of classic pub grub.
Travel Tip: Unless you plan ahead, vegetarians in your group may find themselves lacking options. Notifying the restaurant well in advance allows for a vegetarian option; however, if there are multiple vegetarians, this may not be the best choice for your group.
We began with a starter of vegetable flower fritter filled with pork farce and quail egg, which resembled a gourmet Scotch egg. The perfectly cooked quail egg was a delightful surprise within the deep-fried squash blossom. We also enjoyed a summer courgette tart topped with chevre, pesto, and cured pork, elegantly draped in a transparent layer of lardo, an Italian specialty.
The main course featured “Herb Crusted” stone bass accompanied by a crab pancake, beautifully enveloped in herbs. It was a generous and well-cooked piece of fish, complemented by a crabmeat-filled pancake.
Occasional offal dishes appeared on the menu, with our companion glowing over her Essex lamb “bun,” featuring sweetbreads and salsa verde. This dish resembled a candied apple on a stick, perfectly cooked and wrapped in sweetbreads, coated in a golden brown crust of polenta. The vibrant salsa verde offered an unexpected flavor explosion with fresh herbs, garlic, and lemon zest.
We ordered sides of broccoli in hazelnut mayonnaise and hispi cabbage. While the broccoli was slightly undercooked, making it difficult to spear with a fork, the sweet and pointed hispi cabbage was delightful.
For dessert, we savored a rich milk toffee tart served with roast grapefruit sorbet. The tart was sweet, while the sorbet added a pleasantly bitter contrast, creating a harmonious pairing.
The Nitty-Gritty
Dining here comes at a premium, considering the chef’s celebrity status, two Michelin stars, and four AA rosettes. Nevertheless, the £119 spent for lunch for two (excluding wine) is reasonable for the quality provided.
The à la carte menu remains consistent for lunch and dinner. Opting for the set menu available at lunch from Monday to Saturday may save you some money, but the limited choices may seem pedestrian for such a renowned restaurant.
Pros
- Intriguing, well-executed interpretations of British pub classics and rustic French cuisine
- Comfortable, laid-back atmosphere
- Delightful surprise snacks
- An extensive, well-curated wine list, including organic and biodynamic selections and a collection of vintage wines
- Guests are welcome to bring their own wine for a corkage fee.
Cons
- Challenging to secure a table when desired
- Occasional dishes may be overly salted or undercooked (especially vegetables)
- Tables can feel crowded
- For those seeking table linens and elaborate decor, the ambiance may disappoint
- Tom Kerridge is not always present.
Is There Really a One Year Wait for a Table?
The wait has historically exceeded a year. The reservations page on The Hand and Flowers website updates with the next available table reservations.
However, with the need to book so far in advance, cancellations are inevitable, allowing for waiting lists. Getting on a waiting list for your preferred lunch or dinner can be worthwhile. If you’re flexible with seating at the bar, you may secure a spot on short notice.
Travel Tip: There are two lunch seatings; if possible, opt for the later one to enjoy a leisurely meal.
Alternatively, consider visiting Coach, Kerridge and his wife’s second pub nearby, which operates on a no-reservation basis. Arriving early is advisable, as the space is small and tends to fill up quickly.
The Essentials
- Where: The Hand and Flowers, 126 West Street, Marlow SL7 2BP
- Contact: Tel: +44 (0)1628 482 277, Email: contact@thehandandflowers.co.uk
- How to get there:
- By train – Marlow train station is a 10-minute walk.
- By car – Marlow is approximately 32 miles from Central London. Take the M4 west to Windsor and Maidenhead, followed by the A404 into Marlow. At the end of the high street, turn left at the T-junction onto West Street. The Hand and Flowers is about a quarter-mile from the junction.
- Travel Tip: The M4 often experiences traffic congestion, so allow extra time. Marlow is a charming town featuring a scenic bridge over the Thames, historic 17th and 18th-century buildings, and numerous shops. There is affordable parking behind the supermarket, making it easy to explore if you arrive early.
- Visit their website for hours, pricing, menus, and additional information.
