Summary
Brittany (Bretagne) has always been fiercely independent; indeed it only became part of France in the 16th century. Today, facing the North Sea and the mighty Atlantic, the Bretons still look outwards towards the rest of the world rather than towards Paris.
It’s a stunningly beautiful region running from the Côte du Granit Rose (the red granite coast) with its pink rock formations and wonderful beaches in the north to the prehistoric remains at Carnac and the glorious islands just off the mainland in the south. It has a rich history, vibrant towns, superb food, and top events.
Brittany is also the land of myths and legends with a separate language where those stories are celebrated. It’s a place for romantics and fairy tales, many of which appear at the great Breton annual festivals that gather Celts and like-minded people from all over the world.
01 of 06: Geography and a Few Facts
Brittany juts out into the Atlantic ocean on the western coast of France. It runs from the northwest coast just outside Mont-St-Michel in Normandy, along the coast of the Golfe of Saint-Malo, passing St-Malo, Dinard, and St-Brieuc to Brest. From this huge outcrop, Brittany goes south to Quimper, then east past Concarneau, Lorient, and Vannes, meeting the Loire-Atlantique region at La Roche-Bernard just before the Regional Park of Brière.
02 of 06: Facts About Brittany
- The great naval city of Nantes was once in Brittany but in 1941 became part of Pays-de-la-Loire and the capital of the region and of Loire-Atlantique, something which has infuriated the Bretons ever since.
- Brittany has over 2800 km (1,740 miles) of coastline.
- Brittany produces over 80% of France’s shellfish.
- There are 4 departments: Côtes d’Amour (22) in the north, Finistère (29) in the far west, Morbihan (56) in the south, and Ille et Vilaine (35) in the east.
- Rennes is the capital of Brittany.
- The Celts arrived in Brittany in the 6th century.
- The discoverer of the St Lawrence River and the effective founder of Canada, Jacques Cartier, was a Breton from St. Malo.
- The inventor of the stethoscope, René Laënnec, was born in Quimper. He coined the term ‘cirrhosis’.
- The first transatlantic transmission by satellite of a TV program comes from the station at Pleumeur-Bodou.
- In 1978, the supertanker Amoco Cadiz ran aground off the northwest coast of Brittany, resulting in a huge oil spill that affected much of that coastline.
- In 2002, Rennes became the smallest city in the world to build a subway system.
03 of 06: Brief History
Brittany had a megalith culture probably as early as 6,000 BC before the Celts arrived in the 6th century BC. In 56 BC, Caesar arrived to conquer the country, and the Romans stayed for four centuries before the collapse of the Roman Empire. In 460, Celts arrived from Britain, driven out by the Anglos and Saxons. From the 8th century, when Charlemagne took over Brittany, there were the usual wars and allegiance changes, with Brittany remaining largely defiant and independent.
Brittany was only united in 851 under the ruler Erispoë, and it wasn’t until 1532 that Brittany became part of France.
Brittany’s golden age occurred in the 16th and 17th centuries, similar to much of France. This period saw the construction and renovation of major ports at St-Malo, Brest, and Lorient, coinciding with the expansion of the French navy. From Brittany, French sailors ventured to the New World of Canada and the West Indies.
Nantes, then part of Brittany, played a significant role in the region’s wealth, fueled by the Atlantic slave trade.
The 18th century and the lead-up to the French Revolution were tumultuous, with divisions between monarchy supporters and revolutionaries. In 1789, Brittany was divided into five departments: Côtes du Nord, Finistère, Ille-et-Vilaine, Loire-Atlantique (later moved), and Morbihan.
Brittany faced mixed fortunes in the 19th century, as industrialization and agricultural mechanization drove many Bretons to urban areas for work.
In the mid 20th century, reviving the Breton language and preserving the culture became crucial, partly due to the destruction wrought by World War II in Brest, Lorient, and St-Nazaire. The removal of Nantes from Brittany to Pays-de-la-Loire was also a major economic and symbolic blow to the region.
Today, Brittany is prosperous, with tourism playing a vital role. The coastline has become a favored destination for the French and many Europeans. Agriculture remains significant, alongside fishing, which accounts for 10% of the national production of France.
04 of 06: Coastline and Coastal Towns
The glorious and immensely varied coast is one of the main attractions of Brittany.
North Coast
The north coast has exposed Atlantic beaches and natural harbors. To the east, just in Normandy but marking the boundary, stands the magnificent Mont-St-Michel. Just 15 km (9.5 miles) away, you’ll find the charming harbor village of Cancale, renowned for fresh oysters sold from stalls on the quayside.
St-Malo is justly famous. Originally a fortified island controlling the estuary of the river Rance and the open sea, today it’s a glorious walled city and a must-visit during a Brittany vacation. It boasts an old citadel of cobbled narrow streets with ramparts and great beaches.
This part of the coast is dotted with delightful small towns, and Dinard is a must-see. This elegant resort offers everything you expect from a casino to regattas. Picasso frequented the area in the 1920s for inspiration, while Alfred Hitchcock allegedly based the Bates house in Psycho on a villa here. An annual English language film festival takes place here.
Drive along the coast road following the Pink Granite Coast for fabulous views and picturesque villages. If you’re a fan of hiking, consider the Sentier des Douaniers, a beautiful coastal walk from Trestraou beach in Perros-Guirec to Ploumanac’h beach, used by customs officers hunting smugglers.
West Coast
Finistère juts out into the dramatic Atlantic waters. The naval town of Brest, home to France’s Atlantic Fleet, was heavily bombed during World War II to prevent German occupation. Families can enjoy a visit to the Château and Océanopolis, an aquarium complex with various attractions.
More rewarding for nature enthusiasts are the Crozon Peninsula to the south. Don’t miss the picturesque port of Camaret, with its old streets, beaches, and a genuine feel of Breton life.
Southwest Finistère includes Douarnenez, crucial to the sardine fishing industry, where the old Port-Rhu is now the Port-Musée, filled with vessels to explore.
South Coast
This area is beautiful, with Quimper embodying the description by 19th-century writer Flaubert as ‘this charming little place’. The town offers bars, cafes, museums, a cathedral, and vibrant annual festivals.
Concarneau, the third most important fishing port in France, is a magnet for visitors, featuring a walled medieval village on a rocky island, a lively Friday market, a fishing museum, and Breton festivals.
Paul Gauguin painted in Pont-Aven, just inland from the Aven estuary, establishing the important Pont-Aven school of painters. Their work is showcased in the recently renovated Museum of Pont-Aven.
While enjoying your seaside holiday, don’t miss the chance to explore the stunning islands dotting the Brittany coast.
05 of 06: Major Cities and Charming Towns
Rennes, the capital of Brittany since 1532, boasts many historic buildings. The medieval quarter of Les Lices, with parts remaining from a devastating fire in 1720, is well worth exploring. The Place des Lices hosts one of France’s largest street markets on Saturday mornings.
Dinan is a picturesque gem with a well-preserved citadel and charming old streets. Arriving by boat up the river Rance offers stunning views of the town, culminating in a walk up to the 13th century ramparts.
Lorient, located on the south coast, has a natural harbor protected by the Ile de Groix, but it is not a prominent tourist destination.
Morlaix, once a major Breton port on the north coast, now features a vibrant port, cobbled streets, and scenic views.
Vannes, the primary tourist destination of south Brittany, is entered through an ancient gateway. Cobblestoned alleys nestled within the walls around the cathedral house half-timbered houses, and the lovely Place Henri-IV should not be missed. A walk along the ramparts offers breathtaking views.
06 of 06: Highlights
Carnac is the most important prehistoric site in Europe, featuring around 2000 menhirs stretching over 2.8 miles. It predates well-known European sites such as Stonehenge, the Pyramids, and Egypt’s Karnac temples.
Fougères, located in northeast Brittany, is famous for its magnificent medieval castle, featuring two levels, a water-filled moat, impressive towers, and plenty of displays on the castle’s history and that of the town.
Visiting the gorgeous islands surrounding the Brittany coast is a quintessential experience.
Festivals in Brittany
Rennes celebrates the unique Les Tombées de la Nuit (Nightfall) in July, featuring street art and performances in unusual locations.
Quimper hosts the Festival La Cournouaille, founded in 1923, taking place in July and showcasing Breton culture in various forms.
Every two years, Douarnenez is filled with traditional sailing ships from around the world during the Temps Fete Festival.
The Interceltic Festival of Lorient is the most prominent Celtic festival, featuring around 200 events and shows, showcasing 5,000 performers and drawing 700,000 spectators worldwide.
Food
Brittany is renowned for its seafood, producing a significant portion of the shellfish consumed throughout France. Therefore, you cannot visit Brittany without indulging in their oysters, widely available and notably different in flavor—especially those in Cancale. Restaurants serve delightful dishes of lobster, clams, cockles, mussels, oysters, crabs, and scallops.
Soupe de poissons (fish soup) is another must-try, often accompanied by garlicky mayonnaise, grated cheese, and croutons.
Sample the local fish stew made with sole, turbot, and shellfish called cotriade.
For dessert, try far Breton, a baked sponge with custard and prunes. Iles flottantes, a soft meringue floating in crème anglaise (egg custard), is another well-loved dish across France.
However, the most iconic elements of Breton cuisine are the crêpe (sweet) and galette (savory). These pancakes are ubiquitous, with fillings that range from traditional to unexpected, making them a perfect snack.
