Shopping in the Old Quarter

Silks. Vietnam, in general, offers great value on silk. Lower prices and affordable labor come together to provide unmatched bargains on meticulously crafted silk dresses, trousers, and even shoes.

Hang Gai Street is the best place in the Old Quarter to satisfy your silk cravings, especially Kenly Silk on 108 Hang Gai (Phone: +84 4 8267236). This shop features three floors offering a wide variety of silk goods, including ao dai, dresses, throw scarves, pajamas, suits, and shoes.

Embroidery. Embroidery is a common cottage industry in Vietnam, giving rise to a mix of quality. For the finest craftsmanship, visit Quoc Su on 2C Ly Quoc Su Street (Phone: +84 4 39289281). Established in 1958, the company is led by embroidery artist Nguyen Quoc Su and employs over 200 skilled embroiderers who create near photo-perfect stitched artwork.

Lacquerware. Known as “Son mai,” this art involves applying resin to wooden or bamboo objects, then polishing them to achieve a deep shine. Many pieces are adorned with eggshells or mother of pearl. Although many examples are found in the Old Quarter, high-quality items can be sourced from Hanoia (official website) on Hang Dao, known for its premium merchandise.

Propaganda Art. Capitalizing on Communist imagery, several shops in the Old Quarter showcase renowned Red media artwork. Old propaganda reproductions are notably available on Hang Bac Street.

You don’t need to wander through all 70-plus streets of the Old District to enjoy the shopping experience. A simple circuit of Hang Be, Hang Bac, Dinh Liet, and Cau Go will suffice. For specificity, remember the following streets that cater to particular goods:

• Hang Can for stationery
• Hang Dau for shoes
• Hang Buom for candies and wine
• Thuoc Bac for tools
• Cau Go for women’s accessories
• Hang Gai for silk
• Hang Hom for lacquerware and bamboo

The Old Quarter’s 36 Streets

The Old Quarter reflects the storied history of Hanoi, linked to the ebb and flow of conquerors and traders over the centuries.

In 1010, when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi, a community of craftsmen accompanied his imperial entourage. These craftsmen formed guilds, which maintained the tradition of working in proximity to safeguard their trades.

As a result, the streets of the Old Quarter developed to represent various guilds; each guild operated on a specific street, and the street names continue to reflect these trades. Streets like Hang Bac (Silver Street), Hang Ma (Paper Offerings Street), Hang Nam (Gravestone Street), and Hang Gai (silk and paintings) are prime examples.

Though folklore suggests there are 36 streets, the Old Quarter actually contains many more. The term “36 streets” serves as a metaphor for the abundance of streets in this historic area.

The Changing Nature of the Old Quarter

The Old Quarter has evolved significantly. Most craftsmen have departed, and the once-busy shops have transformed into restaurants, hotels, bazaars, and specialty stores that line the ancient pathways. New merchandise, like affordable technology, has emerged along streets such as Ly Nam De, effectively becoming the “Computer Street” of the Old Quarter.

Notably, food enthusiasts can now visit the street formerly known as Hang Son (“Paint Street”), which has been renamed Cha Ca in tribute to the area’s iconic dish, cha ca la vong, a delightful Hanoi-style grilled fish meal.

The unique “tube houses,” long and narrow in design, resulted from a historic tax that charged shop owners based on the width of their storefronts. Consequently, home and shop owners opted for these narrow fronts, maximizing their usable space at the back. Today, many of these tube houses have been repurposed as budget hotels, offering character and charm for travelers.

Getting to the Old Quarter

If you’re not residing in one of the Old Quarter’s hotels or hostels, reaching the area is simple. You can easily grab a cab and request to be dropped off at Hoan Kiem Lake, ideally near the red bridge. From there, cross the street north to Hang Be and commence your exploration of the Old Quarter on foot.

Always use Hoan Kiem Lake as a reference point. Should you feel disoriented, don’t hesitate to ask a local for directions to Hoan Kiem Lake.