Summary
The remote land of Tana Toraja, Indonesia (on Sulawesi island) is known for having one of the most bizarre and unique cultures in the world.
We spent several days there in 2020, and even managed to visit a traditional Tana Toraja funeral with the invitation of some friendly locals.
Tanah Toraja offers a fascinating journey, with its unique cliffside graves, karst mountains, and unusually intricate funeral customs and beliefs.
This travel guide will explain how to get to Tana Toraja, where to stay, the best things to do, and essential information to know before you go!
Tana Toraja Culture In A Nutshell
The local religion in Toraja is called Aluk To Dolo (‘Way of the Ancestors’). It’s based on animist myths and traditions, infused with elements of Protestant Christianity brought to Sulawesi by the Dutch in the 1920s.
Toraja culture focuses heavily on death and the afterlife, as evidenced by the famously elaborate funeral ceremonies that include days of feasting, dancing, and the ritual slaughtering of buffalos and pigs. The funeral is central to Toraja culture.
We enjoyed witnessing the artistic tongkonan houses with their iconic curved rooftops and exploring the hundreds of peculiar grave sites carved into cliffs, caves, and boulders.
The Toraja people are incredibly friendly and welcoming to foreigners!
Where Is Tana Toraja?
The Tana Toraja regency is located in the highlands of South Sulawesi, Indonesia.
The main town of Rantepao sits in a scenic mountain area surrounded by limestone karsts, rivers, and lush rice terraces, making it a great base for exploration.
How To Get To Tana Toraja
Tana Toraja can be reached by air, bus, or private car. Each mode of transport has its unique advantages, so consider your preferences when deciding how to travel.
• By Air
All flights to Tana Toraja have to transit first in Makassar (UPG), and then you can fly directly to the new Tana Toraja airport (TRT) which was completed in 2020. The flight from Makassar to Toraja takes about 1 hour and costs approximately 1 million Rupiah ($70 USD) for a one-way ticket.
You can shop for flights to Makassar and Tana Toraja at Skyscanner. Lion Air operates this route daily, and more airlines may follow as interest grows in this destination.
Once you arrive at the airport, it’s approximately a 1-hour drive to the town, with taxi costs around 250k Rupiah. We arranged for our hotel to provide airport pickup along with a half-day tour of Toraja for a total cost of 400k Rupiah, which was convenient and allowed us to see several sights right away.
Overall, flying is currently the most straightforward way to reach Toraja, but bus or car travel could be more suitable based on your group size and budget.
• By Bus
There’s a daily bus service (morning and night) from the bus terminal in Makassar to Tana Toraja.
The bus ride takes roughly 9 to 10 hours, with several stops along the way. Departure times are at 9 AM for the morning bus and 9 PM for the night bus.
Although this journey is lengthy, it could appeal to solo travelers on a strict budget, costing around 200k Rupiah per person (one way).
• By Car
A car and driver can be hired to transport you from Makassar to Tana Toraja for approximately 750k to 1 million Rupiah ($50-70). This option is particularly cost-effective for small groups. The drive takes over 8 hours, and the road is generally well maintained.
Alternatively, you could rent a car to drive yourself for about 600k Rupiah, but this is only recommended if you are experienced with driving in Indonesia.
How To Get Around Toraja
Once you arrive in Tana Toraja, the best way to explore is by hiring a car with a driver or renting a scooter.
Hiring a driver in Toraja is quite affordable. Our hotel owner was eager to show us all the local tourist sites for just 400k Rupiah per day.
Best Things To Do In Toraja Indonesia
1. Lemo
The cliffside graves at Lemo are among Tana Toraja’s most iconic sights.
You are greeted by a row of eerie Tau-Tau statues that seem to be guarding the graves.
Lemo is easily accessible, and our hotel owner took us there while driving us from the airport to our homestay in Rantepao.
2. Londa
Londa is a burial ground featuring two deep limestone caves filled with coffins and bones.
If you explore deep enough, the caves connect through a series of tunnels. A flashlight is advisable, or you can rent a lantern at the entrance.
Londa is easy to combine with Lemo and other attractions in southern Tanah Toraja.
3. Kete Kesu
This location features a popular collection of traditional Toraja houses (tongkonan) with a cave cemetery in the background.
While I found Kete Kesu interesting, I personally preferred the houses at Palawa.
4. Yesus Buntu Burake
With the arrival of colonial influence, Torajan religion was infused with Christianity, resulting in the impressive giant Jesus Christ statue located on a hill above Makale.
This statue is the second tallest in the world (after the well-known one in Sao Paulo, Brazil), and visitors can drive right up to it—no hiking is required.
5. Buntu Pune
Buntu Pune is a small collection of graves and traditional Toraja houses that are often overlooked by tourists.
Located right in Rantepao, it is easily accessible without taking a tour. We walked there from our hotel in just 5 minutes.
6. Bori Kalimbuang
Bori is another grave site in northern Toraja featuring megalithic stones used as headstones. It is also known for the so-called ‘baby trees’ where infants who died in early life were buried.
If you continue along the path, there is a peculiar giant grave stone featuring many tombs. This was one of the most intriguing sights in Toraja.
7. Mount Sesean
Mount Sesean offers some of the best natural scenery in the area, featuring stunning rice terraces.
The hike to the summit from Batutumonga takes about 2 hours each way. The trailhead is easy to find, and reaching the top rewards you with breathtaking 360-degree views of the Toraja valley.
The peak of Gunung Sesean is 2,100 meters (6,900 feet) in altitude, making it a favored sunrise spot!
8. Loko Mata
Loko Mata features a giant burial stone located along the main road near Batutumonga and Mount Sesean.
This colossal boulder is the largest we encountered in Toraja, with tombs carved throughout its surface.
It’s a fascinating location, although I found the grave stone at Bori to be more impressive.
9. Palawa Houses
Palawa is known for its exceptionally well-preserved traditional houses, with stunning tongkonan that provide excellent photo opportunities.
This underrated site surprisingly attracts fewer tourists compared to busier locations like Kete Kesu.
10. Limbong Lake
Limbong Lake is situated near Rantepao and is renowned for its idyllic limestone karst mountains, with water that changes color with the seasons. During the rainy season, the locals report that the water appears a beautiful blue.
Even in the dry season, the karsts surrounding the lake create a picturesque landscape.
11. Tana Toraja Funeral
One of the most significant events in Tana Toraja is the traditional funeral ceremony. These events are extravagant, usually last several days, and involve the ceremonial slaughtering of pigs and buffalo as tributes to the deceased’s family.
Funerals are central to Toraja culture and attract international tourists. Foreign guests are welcome to attend, but participants are generally expected to offer a small gift to the family, such as packs of cigarettes.
To witness a Tana Toraja funeral, consult with your accommodation or tour guide for information on upcoming ceremonies, typically held from July to September.
12. Ma’Nene Ceremony
The most shocking and infamous tradition is the Ma’Nene ceremony occurring annually after harvest season.
This ritual involves removing relatives’ corpses from their graves for cleaning and dressing in fresh clothes. The locals regard this practice as an expression of love and respect, aiming to maintain connections with their deceased loved ones.
Other Toraja Tips
- Credit Cards: Most transactions in Tana Toraja require cash. This includes hotels, restaurants, and entrance fees at tourist sites, so keep cash on hand.
- ATM: There are several ATMs in Rantepao with standard withdrawal limits that accept foreign cards.
- WiFi: Many accommodations in Rantepao provide decent WiFi, with ongoing improvements.
- Cell Service: Our Telkomsel SIM cards had great reception in the Rantepao area.
- Restaurants: Street-side warungs in Rantepao may seem unimpressive, but good food can be found with some searching. Two recommended places are Raja Babi Waroenk and Monika Cafe & Resto.
- Safety: I have traveled extensively throughout Sulawesi, both solo and with my wife, and found Toraja to be very safe, with locals being quite hospitable. Maintain normal precautions.
- Mosquitoes: Although there haven’t been recent cases of malaria in Tana Toraja, it is wise to wear repellant while outdoors.
- Apps: Ride-hailing apps like Grab and GoJek are not available in Rantepao, but taxis and food delivery services are manageable.
Best Time To Visit Toraja Indonesia
Tanah Toraja exhibits a cooler climate compared to the rest of Sulawesi, with average temperatures around 23 degrees Celsius (73°F) year-round.
To experience Toraja funerals and the Ma’Nene ceremonies, the ideal visiting period is from July to September, particularly in August.
Any month is generally suitable for visiting Toraja, keeping in mind that it’s rainier from November to May.
How Long To Stay
Visitors can explore the highlights of Tana Toraja in approximately 3 days.
However, given the size of the area, it’s easy to extend your stay to explore the numerous mountains and waterfalls if desired.
Happy travels!
