The Oldest Continually Inhabited Place in Mumbai

Tucked away on the tip of Mumbai’s exclusive Malabar Hill, at the northern end of Back Bay, Banganga Tank is a sacred oasis where it feels like time has stood still for centuries. The tank is a contrasting microcosm of the fast-paced city, and one which many locals aren’t even familiar with. This is understandable, as secluded Banganga Tank isn’t somewhere that can be randomly passed by.

Visiting Banganga Tank provides an exceptional opportunity to submerge yourself in the history of the city and learn about its evolution from seven sparsely populated islands to the bustling metropolis it is today. Read on to take a look around ancient Banganga Tank as it is now and find out how to visit it.

Construction of Banganga Tank

The area around Banganga Tank gradually developed as a pilgrimage site, leading to the establishment of numerous temples and dharamshalas (religious rest houses). Some of the earliest settlers were Gaud Saraswat Brahmins, with one minister in the ruling Hindu Silhara dynasty constructing the existing tank and adjacent Walkeshwar temple in 1127. The 135-meter-long and 10-meter-deep structure of the tank was built over the spring, which continues to provide a flow of fresh water. Today, the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin Temple Trust still owns and manages the tank and temple.

A Heritage Precinct

The Mumbai Heritage Conservation Committee has declared Banganga Tank to be a Grade-I heritage structure, meaning that it’s of national or historical importance and no structural changes are allowed. Many of the buildings and temples surrounding the tank have Grade-II A heritage status, which also prevents redevelopment; however, haphazard high-rises loom closely in the background, threatening to engulf the tranquil enclave.

Intense development of Malabar Hill began in the 1960s. Yet, it wasn’t until after the Great Fire of Bombay in 1803, which destroyed much of the Fort district, that this thickly wooded jungle began to be populated. The devastating fire prompted the British to expand the city outward and drove residents to build houses around Malabar Hill, completing the joining together of the seven Bombay islands mostly in the first half of the 19th century. After the Fort walls were demolished in 1864, the city’s elite also relocated to Malabar Hill.

Jabreshwar Mahadev Temple

There are more than 100 temples in the vicinity of Banganga Tank. Down a flight of stone stairs, on the way to the tank via Banganga 2nd Cross Lane, the Jabreshwar Mahadev temple is wedged between apartment buildings, creating a startling juxtaposition. A determined peepal tree is enmeshing itself in the temple, and no one is keen to remove it, fearing the temple might collapse. The temple is named not from its powerful deity but from a land acquisition forcibly taken in 1840 by a trader named Nathubai Ramdas.

Parshuram Temple

Nearby, the Parshuram Temple is one of only a handful of temples of its kind in existence in India. Lord Parshuram, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, is the most worshiped god in the Konkan region and is believed to have created the Konkan Coast, reclaiming the land from the sea with the fall of his axe. Furthermore, according to the Skanda Purana, it was Parshuram who created the freshwater spring at Banganga by shooting his arrow into the ground.

Banganga Tank and Walkeshwar Temple

Parshuram Temple provides a splendid view across the western side of Banganga Tank. The tall white shikhara (temple tower) belongs to what is labeled the Rameshwar temple, built in 1842. This temple is also commonly referred to as the Walkeshwar temple, along with a number of others around the tank.

The original Walkeshwar temple was destroyed by the Portuguese in the 16th century, when they gained control of the Bombay islands and began spreading Christianity. The British were more tolerant and encouraging of other religions, keen to attract migrants to help the city grow. The temple was reconstructed in 1715 with funding from a Gaud Saraswat Brahmin and has undergone numerous reconstructions, most recently in the 1950s.

The steps of Banganga Tank serve many purposes: a play area for children, a social hub for residents, a space to dry washing, and a setting for puja (worship). Despite its freshwater source, Banganga Tank is becoming increasingly polluted due to the items thrown into it as part of religious rituals.

Deepstambhas

Deepstambhas (pillars of light) mark the entrance to Banganga Tank and significant temples in the area. Astonishingly, a saint is said to be buried under each one!

Street Around Banganga Tank

Banganga Tank is flanked by a narrow street lined with temples, homes, and dharamsalas. It forms the route of the holy parikrama, a walk around the tank on foot, which is believed to have immense purifying benefits.

Encroaching Migrant Communities

Migrant communities have encroached upon the edges of Banganga Tank, constructing temporary structures and altering its landscape. An abandoned Punjabi dharamshala occupies a prime position at the tank’s ocean-facing southwestern edge. Hindi film stars celebrated Holi there in the 1930s and 1940s; however, the area has become home to slum dwellers over the past few decades.

Ganpati Temple

A small Ganpati temple is located opposite the Rameshwar temple and was built at the same time in 1842. Its architecture blends Marathi and Gujarati styles, featuring a delicately crafted idol from white marble. This temple comes alive during the annual Ganesh Chaturthi festival, which is widely celebrated in Mumbai.

Lakshmi Narayan Temple

The Gujarati influence at Banganga Tank is especially evident in the temples, including the Lakshmi Narayan Temple situated next to the Ganpati temple, adorned with two dwarapala (doorkeeper) statues.

Hanuman Temple

The modern Hanuman Temple is the most colorful at Banganga Tank, housing a brightly painted shrine with an idol of Hanuman carrying a dagger.

Venkateshwar Balaji Temple

On the northeast side of Banganga Tank, Venkateshwar Balaji Temple is one of the oldest temples in the region, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Built in 1789 in Maratha style, it features a dome characteristic of Islamic architecture. The temple is unique for its Vishnu idol with open eyes and contains two different Ganesh idols. Climbing the steps to the right upon entering the temple rewards you with a scenic view over the tank.

Memorial Stones

Intriguing orange-painted stones sit by the steps leading down to Banganga Tank. These pallias are memorial stones for deceased warriors, worshiped primarily by Gujaratis.

Dhobi Ghat

The dhobi ghat on Bhagwanlal Indrajit Road, located in the northwest corner of Banganga Tank, is smaller than the more famous Mahalaxmi open-air laundry.

Dashnami Goswami Akhada

Further along Bhagwanlal Indrajit Road lies the sprawling cemetery of the Goswami community, a segment gravesite that retains its traditional burial practices for those who have taken sanyas (renunciation). Tombstones with feet signify female burials, while shivlinga and Nandi bull symbols indicate male burials.

How to Visit Banganga Tank

Banganga Tank provides a welcome reprieve from the frenetic pace of the city. It’s beneficial to spend some time simply sitting on the steps and absorbing daily life. For a deeper understanding of Banganga Tank’s heritage, consider taking a heritage walk.

Explore the Banganga Parikrama walking tour conducted by Khaki Tours, which specializes in heritage walks. Alternatively, you can discover more through specialized tours offered by local providers.

How to Get There

Banganga Tank is located in Walkeshwar, on Malabar Hill in south Mumbai. If traveling by the Mumbai local train, the nearest railway stations are Charni Road and Grant Road on the Western Line. From there, taking a taxi is advisable.

Banganga Tank can be accessed via:

• Walkeshwar Road on the eastern edge. Pass Walkeshwar Bus Depot and the Governor’s Residence entrance, then turn right into Banganga 1st Cross Lane or Banganga 2nd Cross Lane.
• Bhagwanlal Indrajit Road on the northwestern edge, past the Dashnami Goswami Akhada, crematorium, and the dhobi ghat.
• Dongersey Road on the northeastern edge, past a series of high-rise buildings.