Located in the Himachal Pradesh region of India, McLeod Ganj is home to the Dalai Lama, the Tibetan government in exile, and thousands of Tibetan refugees.

When most travelers refer to “Dharamsala,” they are likely speaking of the touristy suburb of Upper Dharamsala, better known as McLeod Ganj. Few venture down the valley to the city of Dharamsala itself. “Little Lhasa,” as McLeod Ganj is often called, attracts many tourists eager to learn about Tibetan culture and attend spiritual retreats in the majestic surroundings of the Himalayas.

Set amidst the lush hills of the green Kangra Valley, McLeod Ganj is one of the most sought-after destinations in Himachal Pradesh, offering a unique and different vibe compared to the rest of India.

How to Get to McLeod Ganj

For budget and convenience, most travelers arrive in McLeod Ganj by bus. Numerous tourist buses operate between McLeod Ganj, Delhi, and other well-known spots in North India such as Manali. The nearest airport is in Gaggal (airport code: DHM), situated approximately 45 minutes by taxi from McLeod Ganj.

The bus journey to McLeod Ganj is not particularly comfortable. The elevation and winding mountain roads require patience. Expect at least a 10-hour journey from New Delhi; if you’re traveling by night bus, it may take around 13 hours.

Orientation

Most tourist buses drop passengers just below the main square in the northern part of McLeod Ganj. You’ll need to walk about 200 meters uphill to reach the town’s main area. Two roads, Jogiwara Road (also spelled Jogibara) and Temple Road, lead south from the small main square and form a loop. At the end of Temple Road lies the Tsuglagkhang Complex — the residence of the 14th Dalai Lama and the most popular attraction in town.

Bhagsu Road extends east from the main square and is lined with mid-range guesthouses and cafes catering to visitors. A steep path branches off of Jogiwara Road to the east; stairs by Yongling School lead to a lower section of McLeod Ganj where you can find additional budget guesthouses.

The entire town is easily navigable on foot, although taxis and rickshaws are readily available in the main square if you wish to explore neighboring villages or attractions.

What to Expect

McLeod Ganj is compact; walking from one end to the other takes just around 15 minutes. As the home of the 14th Dalai Lama and a significant Tibetan community, you’ll encounter numerous Tibetan refugees and monks clad in maroon robes as they stroll through the streets.

However, don’t expect a serene mountain town solely steeped in Tibetan Buddhism, as many travelers might. While the air is much cleaner than in Delhi, heavy traffic clogs the narrow, litter-strewn roads. Be prepared to see various stray dogs, roaming cows, beggars, and a few opportunistic scammers targeting tourists.

Restaurants serve steaming momos; temples offer workshops and classes; Tibetan culture is integrated throughout McLeod Ganj. Here, the chance to learn about Tibetan Buddhism and the challenges facing Tibetans is abundant.

Finding Things to Do in McLeod Ganj

Numerous cafes provide opportunities for warm drinks and enlightening conversations. Begin your exploration by picking up a free copy of Contact magazine — available at the Tibet Museum — or check their website for events and happenings, including talks, workshops, and documentaries about Tibet.

McLeod Ganj is a popular destination for those looking to study Buddhism, engage in holistic therapies like massage, and participate in meditation retreats. A great way to connect with the local Tibetan community is through various volunteer opportunities, even if it’s just spending an afternoon helping Tibetan refugees improve their English.

The Tibet Museum at the southern end of town screens quality documentaries and acts as a valuable resource for learning about local issues.

Accommodation

Luckily, McLeod Ganj has few high-rise hotels. Instead, the area is filled with smaller guesthouses across various price ranges. These family-run establishments vary from the decrepit to the inviting.

All rooms typically include a personal hot water heater, which must be activated ahead of time. Most rooms are not heated, though some places provide personal heaters for an extra fee. The nicer accommodations often boast a balcony with a valley view, while budget options might not always supply bedsheets or towels.

There are several midrange guesthouses along Bhagsu Road, just off the main square. For more affordable and long-term stay options, consider venturing down the stairs below Yongling School on Jogiwara Road to find an array of budget guesthouses. Alternatively, you could choose to stay in the quieter village of Dharamkot, which is a steep one-kilometer walk from the main square.

Always request to see a room first; many places may have a musty smell due to the persistent dampness of the valley. Moreover, avoid rooms facing the main street, as noise from honking horns can persist even at night.

Eating

With an influx of Western travelers visiting McLeod Ganj, you will find an abundance of budget and midrange restaurants throughout the town. Indian, Tibetan, and Western cuisine, especially pizza, commonly fill the menus.

Vegetarian options dominate the dining scene, while a few establishments also serve chicken and mutton. Many restaurants feature outdoor seating areas or rooftops with scenic mountain views, and most advertise Wi-Fi, which may or may not be functioning reliably.

McLeod Ganj is an excellent place to experience Tibetan cuisine, especially beloved dishes like momos (dumplings), Tingmo (steamed bread), and a comforting bowl of Thukpa (noodle soup). Delightful herbal teas and chai are readily available.

• Lung Ta: This nonprofit Japanese restaurant offers a daily set menu, with vegetarian sushi being particularly popular. All proceeds support the Gu-Chu-Sum Movement of Tibet, which aids political prisoners from Tibet.
• Seven Hills of Dokkaebi: An authentic Korean eatery featuring a fireplace, fantastic food, a substantial library, and classy music. Their large pots of Korean tea are a great bargain.
• McLlo Restaurant: Easily found in the main square, this prominent tourist restaurant may not be the cheapest but boasts the most extensive menu in town. Uniformed staff serve mountain trout and international dishes not commonly found elsewhere.

Nightlife

While areas that cater to backpackers often have lively night scenes, expect minimal nightlife in McLeod Ganj.

In fact, the town tends to shut down around 10 p.m. You can find two of the best options on rooftops in the main square. X-Cite, although dark and somewhat intimidating, is a large discotheque that stays open late. Conversely, McLlo Restaurant features a pleasant rooftop bar and is among the busiest tourist dining spots.

While smoking is often permitted inside rooftop bars, it is prohibited on the streets, and fines can be imposed. Exercise caution!

The Weather in McLeod Ganj

Despite its position in the foothills of the Himalayas, McLeod Ganj rests at a relatively low elevation of 5,741 feet (1,750 meters). This elevation isn’t extreme compared to places like Leh; however, nights can feel cooler than expected, especially after warmer days spent in other areas of India.

With daytime temperatures reaching the upper 80s, sunny summer days can be quite hot. Consequently, evenings cool off significantly. Travelers should bring warm clothing and a jacket during the spring, fall, and winter months; several shops around town offer warm clothing and imitation jackets of popular outdoor brands.

The rainiest months for McLeod Ganj are July, August, and September, so it’s wise to prepare accordingly.

Tips and Considerations for McLeod Ganj

• Power outages are common; carry a flashlight and be cautious when charging electronic devices unattended. Generator startups can potentially damage them, so if the lights behave erratically, it’s best to unplug.
• Many cafes and accommodations claim to have free Wi-Fi; however, connection speeds can be frustratingly slow, depending on the time of day and weather conditions. Be prudent when using shared computers, especially for personal activities.
• Not only are jackets and outdoor gear often counterfeit, but you may also encounter fake Western-brand cigarettes and water bottles refilled with unsafe water. Always inspect seals before making a purchase.
• The valley remains green for good reason: McLeod Ganj experiences significant rainfall! An umbrella and rain gear are smart investments available for purchase all around town. Remember that mornings are typically clear, but weather can change rapidly in the valley. Prepare adequately when hiking to neighboring villages.
• Waste and plastic bottles accumulate in McLeod Ganj. Utilize the water-refill stations found in restaurants and guesthouses to reduce waste. Places like Nick’s Italian Kitchen and the Green Restaurant on Bhagsu road will refill your bottles.