Your Guide to Eating Venetian “Tapas” on the Run
Feeling a bit peckish before your fashionably late dinner reservation in Venice? Don’t feel hungry enough for a formal meal?
Then, do what Venetians do: head to a bacaro, a charming wine bar offering small, tantalizing bites or cicchetti of traditional Venetian fare, accompanied by an ombra or a glass of local wine. Explore the concept behind bacari, the cicchetti selections, and the history of ombras. Discover some of the best bacari to visit while in Venice.
History of Bacari and Cicchetti in Venice
In the 1300s, more than 20 bacari (small wine bars) adorned the area surrounding Venice’s Rialto Bridge. Barkeeps served small nibbles to encourage patrons to linger longer. However, these wine bars eventually gained a less-than-favorable reputation and declined in popularity.
Today, the trend of enjoying cicchetti is experiencing a renaissance similar to the evolution of tapas in Spain. The cicchetti have been elevated to gourmet status, and wines are flowing freely once again—a new era has indeed begun. Currently, enjoying cicchetti in Venice, particularly seafood-based options, is cherished by both tourists and locals.
How to Order Wine in a Bacaro
When you’re in a bacaro, you might instinctively approach the bar to order a glass of wine, un bicchiere di vino. Nevertheless, it’s preferable to request an ombra instead.
Ordering un bicchiere di vino may result in a pricier glass of wine that isn’t necessarily local. Conversely, asking for an ombra will get you a small glass of local wine, typically at a reasonable price.
The term “ombra,” meaning “shade,” originates from the days when wine merchants would move their stalls in Piazza San Marco to keep their wares cool from the sun’s heat. The tradition of ordering an ombra continues today in Venice.
How to Order Food in a Bacaro
The food available in a bacaro reflects the culinary traditions of a Venetian kitchen, predominantly featuring seafood in various forms. Traditional staples like baccala mantecato, a creamy salted cod served over polenta, can often be found on the menu. Other options include baked cuttlefish, shrimp, and delightful meatballs.
Italians have also recently developed a taste for raw fish, akin to the culinary artistry of sashimi makers, so you may encounter raw fish as part of the offering.
The food is typically displayed on large platters behind glass shelves over the bar. To place an order, navigate through the crowd and indicate your choices. Expect each portion to cost between 2 to 4 euros.
Cantina Vecia Carbonera
Address: Rio Terà de la Maddalena, 2329, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
Phone: +39 380 216 7090
Cantina Vecia Carbonera is an excellent bacaro for enjoying food and an ombra. Its name nods to the site’s history as it once stored coal or carbone in Italian.
Upon entering, place your food and drink order, then look for seating in the back amidst long communal tables. Some patrons spill outside as well. The venue offers a solid selection of food and is in a convenient area. Cannaregio is a lovely, working-class neighborhood ideal for finding accommodations too.
El Sbarlefo
Address: Salizada del Pistor, 4556/C, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
Phone: +39 041 523 3084
According to Venetian blogger Monica Cesarato, El Sbarlefo serves the best baccala mantecato in town. The menu includes tempting choices like meatballs in tomato sauce, artichokes, polenta, herring, and classic sarde in saor, which is sardines served in a sweet-sour onion sauce.
Although it is a tiny, crowded venue, the food is well worth the effort to secure a spot. A meal with drinks for three will cost around 25 euros.
La Cantina
Address: Sestiere Cannaregio, 3689, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
Phone: +39 041 779 5291
La Cantina is known for its impressive wine selection and fresh fish. At this bacaro, you will find an array of wines from the Veneto region and beyond, and you could even sample some raw branzino. If you find yourself still hungry after your visit, consider making a reservation at Vini di Giglio, one of Venice’s finest dining establishments located nearby.
