1. Overview
This article covers the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery in France, detailing its significance, the graves it contains, and practical information for visitors.
2. The Cemetery
3. The Chapel and Memorial Wall
4. Medals of Honor
5. The American Army and the Meuse-Argonne Offensive
6. Practical Information
The largest American cemetery in Europe is located in north-east France in Lorraine, at Romagne-sous-Montfaucon. It is a vast site, spanning 130 acres of gently sloping land, where 14,246 soldiers who died in World War I are interred in straight military lines.
The graves reflect no rank distinction; for instance, a captain may be found next to an orderly, or a pilot who received the Medal of Honor may rest beside an African American in the Labour Division. Most of those interred fought and perished during the 1918 offensive aimed at liberating the Meuse under the command of General Pershing.
The Cemetery
As you approach the cemetery, you will drive past two towers at the entrance. At the top of one of the hills, the Visitor Center greets guests, where you can inquire about the war and the cemetery itself. For a more enriching experience, consider opting for a guided tour, which offers accurate, interesting stories filled with anecdotes, thereby enhancing your understanding beyond a casual walk.
From the Visitor Center, you will walk down a gentle slope to a circular pool adorned with a fountain and flowering lilies. The chapel stands prominently atop the hill, surrounded by massed graves. Of the 14,246 headstones, 13,978 are Latin crosses and 268 are Stars of David. To the right, you will find 486 graves honoring unknown soldiers.
While most individuals buried here died during the 1918 offensive, there are also civilians interred, including seven women—nurses or secretaries—three children, and three chaplains. Additionally, there are 18 sets of brothers, albeit not buried side by side, and nine Medal of Honor recipients.
The headstones are characterized by their simplicity, displaying the name, rank, regiment, and date of death. The divisions represented were largely geographic, such as the 91st known as the Wild Wild West Division from California and western states, while the 77th is the Statue of Liberty Division from New York. Notable exceptions include the 82nd, the All American division, and the 93rd, a segregated Black division.
This cemetery was formed from 150 temporary cemeteries situated near the relevant battlefields because soldiers needed to be buried within two to three days after their death. The Meuse-Argonne cemetery was officially dedicated on May 30th, 1937, with many soldiers reinterred multiple times.
The Chapel and Memorial Wall
Perched on a hill, the chapel is a modest structure boasting a simple interior. Upon entering, visitors will find an altar adorned with the flags of the United States and major Allied nations. Large stained glass windows, displaying the insignia of various American regiments, adorn both sides.
For those unfamiliar with these insignia, having a guide can significantly enhance your visit. Outside, the chapel is flanked by wings inscribed with names of those missing in action, with 954 names engraved. A large relief map illustrates the battle alongside the surrounding countryside.
Medals of Honor
The cemetery is the final resting place for nine Medal of Honor recipients, whose graves are marked by gold lettering. Many of these individuals exhibited extraordinary bravery, with the story of Frank Luke Jr. (May 19, 1897 – September 29, 1918) being particularly remarkable.
Born in Phoenix, Arizona, to an immigrant father, Frank Luke enlisted in the Aviation Section, U.S. Signal Corps in September 1917. He arrived in France in July 1918, joining the 17th Aero Squadron, where his tenacity and desire to become an ace pilot quickly became evident.
Luke chose to target German observation balloons, a task that was perilous due to well-placed anti-aircraft defenses. Together with his friend Lt. Joseph Frank Wehner, who provided protective cover, they achieved notable success. On September 18, 1918, after Wehner was killed while defending him, Luke retaliated by shooting down the two attacking Fokker D. VIIs and subsequently took down two more balloons.
Between September 12th and 29th, Luke downed 14 German balloons and four aircraft—a record unparalleled by any pilot in World War I. His exploits came to an end on September 29th when, after destroying three balloons, he was mortally wounded by a machine gun bullet from a hillside. Even in his last moments, he fought fiercely against German soldiers attempting to capture him.
Posthumously awarded the Medal of Honor, Luke’s medal was later donated to the National Museum of the United States Air Force near Dayton, Ohio, where it is preserved alongside various mementos belonging to the ace.
The American Army and the Meuse-Argonne Offensive
Before the outbreak of World War I in 1914, the American army ranked 19th worldwide, with just over 100,000 active soldiers. By 1918, however, its numbers ballooned to 4 million, with 2 million deployed to France.
During the Meuse-Argonne offensive, which lasted from September 26th to November 11th, 1918, the Americans fought side by side with the French. Over this five-week campaign, 30,000 U.S. soldiers lost their lives, averaging 750 to 800 daily. Throughout the entirety of World War I, the American forces earned 119 Medals of Honor within a very brief timespan.
Compared to the total of allied soldiers, this might seem modest, yet it marked a significant moment in American military history, reflecting the start of increased involvement in European conflicts. At that time, it was recognized as the largest battle in American history. Following the war, a desire to establish a lasting memorial on European soil led to the establishment of the cemetery.
Practical Information
Location: Romagne-sous-Montfaucon
Telephone: 00 33 (0)3 29 85 14 18
The cemetery is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM, except on December 25th and January 1st.
Directions: The Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery is located east of the village of Romagne-sous-Montfaucon (Meuse), approximately 26 miles northwest of Verdun.
By car: If driving from Verdun, take the D603 towards Reims, then proceed on the D946 towards Varennes-en-Argonne, following the signs for the American Cemetery.
By train: Travel via TGV or local trains from Paris Est, transferring at either Chalons-en-Champagne or Meuse TGV station. Travel times vary between roughly 1 hour 40 minutes to just over 3 hours. Taxis are available in Verdun.
