The Kutch Region of Gujarat: A Unique Travel Destination

The Kutch region of Gujarat is often referred to as India’s “wild west.” This vast stretch of largely barren and harsh desert landscape spans more than 40,000 square kilometers, making it one of the country’s largest districts. The name Kutch (or Kachchh) signifies its unique climatic conditions, alternating between wet and dry, particularly during the monsoon season when it is submerged.

Much of Kutch consists of seasonal wetlands known as the Great Rann of Kutch, famous for its salt desert, and the smaller Little Rann of Kutch, known for its Wild Ass Sanctuary. The Great Rann lies in the far north, bordering Pakistan, and it occupies part of the Thar desert, which extends into Rajasthan. Due to its location, Kutch is home to many migrant communities from Pakistan (Sindh) and the Marwar region of Rajasthan, as well as from Persia (Iran). Historically, Kutch was ruled by the Jadeja dynasty of Rajputs, one of the oldest Hindu dynasties.

Overview of Gujarat’s Kutch Region

This diverse migration has contributed to a variety of religions in the Kutch region, with Jainism being the most prominent. Interestingly, Kutch remains a harmonious area where inhabitants coexist peacefully, respecting each other’s beliefs and often participating in one another’s events.

The Impact of Earthquake

Centuries ago, when migrants settled in Kutch, the Indus River flowed through the region, making the land fertile for agriculture. However, a massive earthquake in 1819 altered its course, and another devastating earthquake struck in 2001. Consequently, much of the land is now flat and inhospitable, creating an enchanting yet stark landscape.

The simplicity and tranquility of life here is striking. Many villagers earn a living from traditional arts passed down through generations, attracting tourists keen to explore rural hospitality and gain unique insights into local culture. Kutch has become a notable destination for rural tourism in India, where travelers can easily spend several days exploring.

Bhuj: Capital of the Kutch Region

Bhuj, the capital city of Kutch, is an excellent base for exploring the region. It can be reached conveniently by train, bus, or flights.

The City’s Royal Heritage

Historically, Bhuj was ruled by Jadeja dynasty kings who established their presence in the 16th century. The city is built around a hill called Bhujia Dungar, where Bhujia Fort was erected by King Rao Godaji for protection against intruders. The fort has witnessed six significant battles, particularly during the 1700-1800s, involving raiders from Sindh and Mughal forces.

Attractions in Bhuj

Despite being impacted by the 2001 earthquake, many architectural treasures survive in the walled Old City. Key attractions include:

• Rani Mahal, the former royal residence
• Prag Mahal, featuring Italian Gothic architecture
• Aina Mahal, a 350-year-old palace with royal artifacts

Additionally, the city offers various temples, museums, markets, and Hamirsar Lake, abundant with large catfish. For those interested in handicrafts, Kutch Adventures India provides opportunities to meet expert artisans, such as Aminaben Khatri, a renowned tie-dye artist.

Staying in Bhuj

Visitors wishing to immerse themselves in local culture can opt for homestays through Kutch Adventures India. For a unique experience, the Bhuj House offers heritage accommodations built in 1894, featuring antiques and local crafts.

Alternatively, the Regenta Resort Bhuj is a popular choice for those seeking additional amenities, situated atop a hill with panoramic views. For budget travelers, The Royal Guesthouse behind the bus station provides economical dorm rooms.

Newly established, Kutch Wilderness Kamp offers a scenic eco-resort experience overlooking Rudramata Lake, about 20 minutes from Bhuj.

What’s Next After Bhuj

After exploring Bhuj, many travelers head towards the regional handicraft villages or the Great Rann of Kutch, with the port town of Mandvi, known for its shipbuilding, just an hour’s drive away. On the way, visitors can stop at historic Kera to view the ruins of a tenth-century Shiva temple.

Mandvi: Seaside Ship Building

Mandvi features an intriguing 400-year-old shipbuilding yard, where construction occurs along the banks of the Rukmavati River as it flows into the Arabian Sea. This unique attraction is worth seeing, showcasing ships at various development stages.

The Ship Building Process

The construction of each ship typically requires two to three years, utilizing specialized knowledge at each stage. Workers often have backgrounds as ex-sailors, and the timber sourced for shipbuilding generally comes from Burma or Malaysia. Notably, to prevent seepage from gaps around the nails, cotton wool is stuffed into these spaces, expanding when wet to seal the holes.

Other Attractions in Mandvi

Unlike Bhuj, Mandvi’s historical buildings escaped significant earthquake damage. A walk through the market area will reveal many quaint old structures, reminiscent of the city’s past as the royal summer retreat. The Vijay Vilas Palace is particularly notable, offering a glimpse into royalty.

For a taste of local cuisine, Osho restaurant, known for its unlimited Gujarati thalis, is a must-try, allowing diners to indulge for about 150 rupees ($2).

Don’t Miss the Jain Temple

Near Mandvi, in Koday, a stunning white marble Jain temple awaits visitors. This temple, despite its relative newness, features an impressive 72 shrines and provides opportunities to meet the artisan responsible for its craftsmanship.

The drive from Bhuj to Mandvi transforms the desolate landscape into lush greenery, resembling the scenery of southern India.

Kutch Villages and Handicrafts

The region is renowned for its vibrant handicrafts produced by skilled artisans. Many crafts, such as bandhani tie-dye and ajrakh block printing, have roots tracing back to Pakistan, introduced by migrants over 350 years ago. The Muslim Khatri community excels in these arts, along with other crafts including embroidery, weaving, pottery, and leather work.

Take a Handicraft Tour

Kutch is considered one of the premier locations for handicraft tours in India. While it’s possible to visit artisans independently, the dispersed nature of the villages and the language barrier can be challenging. Kutch Adventures India provides curated tours to lesser-known artists, enhancing their visibility and acceptance in the market.

Popular Handicraft Villages in Kutch

Villages like Bhujodi (weavers) and Ajrakhpur (block printers) near Bhuj are among the most visited. Nirona, known for bell makers and rogan art, is a short detour en route to the Great Rann. Khavda village specializes in pottery, while Gandhinugam features traditional mud huts that are colorfully painted.

Craft Parks and Resource Centers

Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park in Bhujodi serves as a cultural center and artisan marketplace. Meanwhile, Khamir in Kukma offers a platform for artisans to showcase their work and hosts workshops, fostering collaboration and innovation among creative minds.

The Rare Skill of Mashru Weaving

In Bhujodi, Babu Bhai, one of the remaining mashru weavers, represents a unique weaving technique that combines silk and cotton. This style, derived from Persian traditions, disallows silk from directly touching the skin, creating a softly textured fabric.

His craft is regarded as a meditative practice, necessary for maintaining focus amidst the rhythmic clacking of the weaving machine. Babu Bhai enjoys teaching this rare skill to his family, ensuring the preservation of this ancient art form.

Great Rann of Kutch and Salt Desert

Aside from handicrafts, visitors to Kutch are drawn to the Great Rann of Kutch—an otherworldly landscape that lies north of the Tropic of Cancer, primarily characterized by its expansive salt desert encompassing around 10,000 square kilometers. This area becomes particularly mesmerizing at sunset and under the full moon, revealing vistas of shimmering salt flats.

The Great Rann is home to various communities, including those migrating from Pakistan, contributing to its rich cultural tapestry. The region remained largely unexplored until governmental efforts following the 2001 earthquake highlighted its unique offerings and potential.

Visiting the Great Rann of Kutch

For breathtaking views of the Great Rann, Kala Dungar, or the black mountain, provides an excellent vantage point. The wetlands, known as Chari Fulay, are also a hotspot for migratory birds, making this an eco-tourism gem.

Visitors typically opt for specialized accommodations near the salt desert. For those seeking adventure, Kutch Adventures India also offers unique overnight experiences in local villages.

Little Rann of Kutch

Situated southeast of the Great Rann lies the Little Rann of Kutch, which is best reached from Ahmedabad, approximately 130 kilometers away. This area is notable for being home to the largest wildlife sanctuary in India, sheltering the endangered Indian wild ass, which resembles a blend between a donkey and a horse. Birdwatchers will also find an abundance of avian life here, making it a delight for nature lovers.