Exploring the Cultural Heart of Nagaland

The state of Nagaland, in remote Northeast India, is divided into eight districts — Dimapur, Kohima, Mokokchung, Mon, Phek, Tuensang, Wokha, and Zunheboto. Whether you venture to the villages just a few hours from Kohima, or to the far-off districts of Mon (famous for its Konyak headhunter tribe) and Mokokchung, you’re sure to be engaged by the fascinating tribal village life in Nagaland. Colorful and unusual, it’s not something that travelers are used to seeing!

The region boasts 16 major tribes in untamed Nagaland, which shares a border with Myanmar. Relatively new to tourism, the people are curious, warm, informal — and open to attracting visitors. You’ll never feel alone when visiting villages in Nagaland. However, deciding which villages to visit can be overwhelming. This guide highlights five popular tourist districts of Nagaland, providing inspiration for your journey.

Modern life is already making its way into Nagaland, so don’t expect to see traditional tribal clothing everywhere. Most towns have concrete buildings, with the essence of traditional Nagaland primarily found in the villages.

Traveling to Nagaland is most convenient on a tour, such as those offered by Kipepeo, Greener Pastures, and Holiday Scout. Permit requirements for Nagaland have been relaxed for foreign tourists. You can find out more about permits for North East India here.

Dimapur: Nagaland’s Commercial Center

Dimapur serves as the commercial center of Nagaland and is the main entry point into the state. The only airport in Nagaland is located here, offering flights to and from Kolkata and Guwahati. Additionally, Dimapur is the only city in Nagaland connected by train, facilitating direct trains to and from Delhi, Kolkata, Bangalore, and Chennai.

Once the capital of the ancient Kachari tribe, Dimapur houses mysterious 13th-century ruins from the Kachari civilization, which ruled until the Nagas came down from the hills. These ruins, scattered throughout Rajbari Park, are a fascinating attraction, despite their neglect. You can also explore a Wednesday market close to the ruins, offering insights into daily life in Nagaland with familiar products such as spices, wicker goods, and vegetables. However, if you’re not adventurous, you might want to avoid the meat section, which can feature unconventional offerings such as dog meat.

Many travelers quickly leave Dimapur, as it’s only a two to three-hour drive to Kohima. Alternatively, if you’re pressed for time, a 30-minute helicopter ride is available.

Kohima: Nagaland’s Capital

Kohima, the state capital, is the second-largest city in Nagaland, well developed with a population of approximately 100,000 people. History enthusiasts will appreciate a visit to the Kohima War Cemetery, a tribute to the soldiers who sacrificed their lives during World War II. The cemetery is the final resting place for around 1,100 British and 330 Indian soldiers.

Moreover, Kohima is renowned for the annual Hornbill Festival, held at Kisama Heritage Village during the first week of December. This open-air museum, which showcases traditional tribal Nagaland architecture, is approximately 10 kilometers from Kohima and is open daily from morning until evening.

Razhu Pru is a commendable heritage homestay option in Kohima, offering a unique cultural experience.

Several intriguing tribal villages can be explored in the Kohima district:

Khonoma Village

The picturesque Khonoma village, home to the Angami tribe, lies around 20 kilometers from Kohima. The journey can be challenging due to the road conditions, yet the village enchants visitors with its breathtaking vistas. Village homes cascade down hilltops, offering an intimate taste of tribal life through rustic homestays. Meru Homestay, hosted by Khrieni and Megongui Meru, is highly recommended for an authentic experience. The residents of Khonoma are deeply committed to wildlife conservation, boasting The Khonoma Nature Conservation and Tragopan Sanctuary.

Touphema Tourist Complex

Touphema offers an appealing overnight option for travelers heading to further districts like Mokokchung. This tourist complex provides modern comforts alongside cultural experiences, complete with Western toilets. Positioned on a hillock overlooking the village, it offers stunning panoramic views. Local guides are available for village tours, and visitors can enjoy excellent cultural programs in the evenings where village women share their traditional recipes.

Mokokchung: Land of the Ao Tribe

Mokokchung town ranks as the third most significant urban hub in Nagaland, requiring approximately six hours to reach from Kohima. This district is inhabited by the Ao tribe, which celebrates their renowned Moatsu Festival during the first week of May each year.

For festival-goers, Chuchuyimlang village is just an hour and a half’s drive from Mokokchung town. This village, perched on a hilltop, offers stunning views of lush hills that change colors with the rising sun. The tourist lodge, although located away from the village, is ideally positioned to soak in the evening light.

Mopungchuket

Mopungchuket, closer to Mokokchung town, is regarded as one of the best-kept villages in Nagaland. Known as the Ao heartland, this village immerses visitors in tribal culture. Each house opens onto beautifully maintained gardens, and the locals are welcoming. Cultural programs occur in an amphitheater overlooking a tranquil lake. The tourism department has improved accommodations, with cottages designed like a morung (traditional communal house), equipped with modern amenities and indigenous cuisine available, offering an interactive cooking experience.

Mon: Land of Konyak Headhunters

The Mon district, inhabited by the Konyaks — notorious former headhunters — presents remarkable opportunities to discover semi-traditional villages and tattooed warriors. The primary appeal of Mon lies in its remote geography, which offers confronting glimpses into a lifestyle vastly different from modern urban living.

The Mon landscape features stunning topography with dense vegetation, providing picturesque views of the plains of Assam from the hilltops. Longwa, the district’s largest village, sits right along the Myanmar border, with the chief’s house split between the two countries. Visitors have the unusual chance to sit by the hearth with one side in Myanmar and the other in India; and the chief himself is reputed to have many wives, adding an element of intrigue to the visit.

If you visit Mon in early April, you will witness the Konyaks celebrating the Aoleong Monyu festival, a lively celebration welcoming spring and praying for bountiful harvests through feasting and sacrifices to appease the divine forces.

Travelers can access Mon via two routes: from Kohima along the eastern edge of Nagaland, or via Jorhat in Assam, with the latter offering superior road conditions. For adventure seekers, the route through Naginimora in Mon and Wakching in the Tuensang district features more rugged terrain. However, due to its isolation, joining a tour is one of the best ways to explore Mon.

One of the finest accommodations in the region is the boutique Konyak Tea Retreat, positioned on a tea estate. The host, a descendant of a tattooed headhunter, is engaging in research on tribal tattoo patterns, providing a unique cultural encounter for guests.

Wokha: Organic Fruit and the Lotha Tribe

The four-hour drive from Kohima to Wokha is a picturesque journey characterized by terraced fields, vibrant foliage, blossoming flowers, and quaint towns cloaked in mist.

Wokha is recognized as the land of the Lotha tribe and is renowned for its organic oranges and pineapples, which are grown free of fertilizers and pesticides. One can discover ancient stone monoliths across the hillsides, erected by tribal elders, highlighting the district’s rich history.

For an unforgettable rural experience, venture an hour from Wokha town to the picturesque tourist village above Riphyim. The area features a colonial cottage dating back to World War II, transformed into a quaint inspection bungalow. Nature lovers can explore various trails winding through dense forests, leading to seasonal farms or secluded woodcutter paths. For those craving a scenic view, the viewpoint above the tourist lodge offers a spectacular vista of a dam on the Doyan River.

The tourist lodge in Riphyim is uniquely positioned near the edge of a hill, providing magnificent views from the accommodation. Moreover, a variety of traditional and international cuisine is available, making for delightful dining experiences beside the evening bonfires during sunset.